Compression Tested my car today.

[S13Sil-line]

So I bought a compression tester last night and tested today. I guess your supposed to do the testing while the motor is at running temp. Well my motor wasnt cold nor was it at running temp.

Cylinder 1=155Cylinder 2=153Cylinder 3=154Cylinder 4=155Cylinder 5=151Cylinder 6=154 Are these about normal? How would the reading be effected if the motor would be at running temp. higher or lower?

Also if anyone remembers me talking about in another post just recently that when I turn my car off and take the key out the dash is still powered. Well someone mentioned something about the check engine light. So I did Step 9: and connected the check engine light. Well I noticed today that everything is normal. I take the key out and everything turns off. It may also be because I charged the battery and was not jump starting it every time. So if anyone has this problem look into these options.

[dekand]

the important thing isn't really the numbers its that they are all close to being the same...

that looks good to me

[goofynick6]

Yeah, good that they're the same..kinda low for 9:1, did you have the throttle wide open and all plugs out and fuel unplugged for the test? If not, then it would read low..

[S13Sil-line]

I'm supposed to have the throttle wide open??? LMAO. No I sure didn't. I guess I'll try again. Damn that sucks.

[TheOne]

those numbers are actually good, as long as it ain't lower than 120-100, its all ok.

[JonPowell]

Actually, according to the manual the engine should be sufficiently warmed. The fuel pump fuse should be pulled, the connector to the injectors should be unplugged. Throttle should be wide open.

The compression should be 174PSI@300RPM with 131PSI@300RPM as the minimum and variance between all 6 should be no more than 14PSI across the board.

The number IS important. Yours fall within specs, but if you were to warm the engine it would probably go up a little more.

[Joe]

yea a warm engine is essiental for 100% accurate compression numbers, but he has a very good baseline that there are no seious problems.

those numbers look perfect, mine was 160-165 on all 6 totally cold engine, open throttle. (in my clip)

[S13Sil-line]

So I should be getting higher readings then with a warmer motor and WOT?

[Joe]

Yes. WOT - because more air can enter the cylinderswarmer - because everyting has expanded and sealed (valves, rings, etc)

[S13Sil-line]

Sweet. Thats exciting that its already a good reading, and it will get better when I actually do it right. I will update tomorrow with the real results.

[S13Sil-line]

Ok so I redid the test today but with WOT and the results were exactly the same. And that problem I encountered with the dash still being powered after the key is out still exist. The only difference is when I take the key out and hit either of the blinkers or the lights the dash turns off. Any tips on how wtot stop this from happening?

[Joe]

i told you man, take the 5 minuets and remove the low fuel light. at least let me prove my friends theory (the person who wrote the wiring guide you used)

[S13Sil-line]

Oh I believe you. On the other hand I like my low fuel light. It lets me know my fuel is getting really low. I mind hitting my blinker for now, while getting out of my car. It would be nice not to have too ghetto of a car.

[DETurbine]

Nice to see that everything is looking healthy.

Here is what mine is:

#1- 110#2- 110#3- 110#4- 110#5- 110#6- 25

Oh well, gives me a reason to rebuild with forgies.

[S13Sil-line]

25 dang thats low. I guess I got lucky with my motor.