compression and rebuild questions

[jcarney1987]

Okay, today I finally got around running a compression test and I got 150, 150, 155, 150 across the cylinders.

So even though it has met the minimum spec, I think it time to go ahead and rebuild the engine before I put a turbo in it.

So here is my first question. I notice how the FSM has different grade of bearings and if I want to use after market bearings, how will I know they will fit? I will have my crank turned like 10 thousands, so can somebody give me some good advise on how to select acl or clevite main/rod bearings?

Also I have a dry nock on startup, it sounds like it's in the head but after 1-2 seconds it's gone. Would you think this would be more likely a wore out oil pump or sticky lifter?


I've also done a 5 sp swap and it seems to work will but 2nd and 3rd gear grinds. They guy said the transmission had 104k miles on it, but I also notice some rtv in the back half, so I'm assuming it might have been rebuilt before and not correctly, but does seem to shift all gears. The grind is really slite.


So advice and info would be great. Thanks

[Fastazz240]

150 to 155 psi is alright also depends on altitude. if you gonna turbo go ahead and do a fresh rebuild. Why are you going to have the crank turned? and as far as your knock you sure thats not just timing chain i have seen alof of KA sound like s*** until oil gets pumping. the 1 to 2 seconds is normal but a rebuild wont hurt. The transmission throw in some redline shockproof the grind will go away. as far as bearings platiguage ur crank and go from there order what will fit

[jcarney1987]

Yes, I've decided to go ahead and do a full rebuild with supertech performance pistons and eagle rods. I'm going to turn the crank 10 thousandths, so I can get ACL bearings to fit proper. From what I've read this is the best bet.

As for the knock, it could be the chain. I think the oil pump is getting wore out, but I did order a new oil pump and timing chain off of ebay (hoping this isn't a bad idea).

[2_Liter_Turbo]

Supertech pistons are a high silicon piston, which is great for applications where you're not too worried about detonation (ie low boost with a conservative tune or N/A). If you are not going with a full stand-alone and some good dyno time to fine tune it, or a very conservative flash tune, and you want to run a lot of boost, I would advise against them. You will want to run a low silicon piston like JE, CP, etc. Supertech and Mahle are good for moderate street builds that you want to last 150k miles or more. They can run tighter clearances and don't make any noise. They do not handle detonation very well. I learned this one the hard way and blew out the ring lands because I had a little detonation from a not so great tune. I have since gone with CP and I have abused my motor hard and it has held up great; but I do have a better tune now, ha ha.

[jcarney1987]

Yes, I chose to go with supertech pistons because I'm only planning on running 8-12 psi in boost. The car is a convertible, so I don't plan on constant hard driving. Just want a little more power when I need or want it . When I get a hard top, I'll go much better bottom end for the beast within.

As for the knock, I don't think it's the chain, because it only knocks on a cold startup or after it's been setting for a bit. I'm assuming the oil pump is worn out and looses prime. That was my guess. It actually started when I was low on oil one day and didn't notice it. So could be damage in the valve terrain. That's something I'll just have to tear apart and see. Could be valves out of adjustment now.

As for my build I'm planing
T25 or t28 turbo
Stage 2 BC Cam
Eagle Rods
Super Tech pistons
Stock Crankshaft w/ ACL rod and main bearings
SR injectors

I haven't decided on how the tune would be done yet, I might just ship my ECU off and have it done or I might try something like nistune. Still not sure.