Complex Sr20det problems, Expert help needed!

[Twinkman]

Wasn’t sure witch forum i should post this on but i think you guys know a lot so
I recently bought a 98 s14a with a s15 SR in it.
Its fully build forged internals, Apexi Power FC, Sard 850 injectors, Fake Greddy Intake manifold I believe
and a lightened flywheel (list goes on but this is whats relevant to my issues i think)

So i have a couple of problems with this car not sure if they are related to each other or what.

Number one, I have very very high oil pressure when starting up (running 5w-50) its up to 7-9bar. If i rev it just a little bit oil pressure will max out my gauge at 10bar. But when the engine is warmed up oil pressure will work as normal. (I dont have a oil cooler, running stock nissan oil filter)

Number two, when i start up my car for the first time of the day it will spit out soot and water from the exhaust! I think the car is running very rich, because the entire exhaust all the way to the end and top of pistons are completely covered in soot. (car does not burn a drop of coolant or oil)

Number three, when i pulled the spark plugs the ceramic was burnt at the bottom of the spark plug, like it turned brown(not sure if this is normal or not really) and cylinder number 3 looked much leaner than the other ones. Spark plug number 3 was almost white but all the other other plugs where golden brown ish.(running BKR7E not gapped)

Number four and the most important one is when ever i roll up to a light or whatever and press the clutch in, the revs will drop and almost stall my car. This also happens at idle if i rev it, for half a second the rev will drop/hesitate before going up and when i let off again it will drop way below idle, almost stall, then jump up to 1500 and go back to normal. It usually never stalls completely but if the revs are to high when i let of the throttle and press in the clutch the car will actually stall completely.

I have cleaned the IAC, i have checked the O2 sensor, i have cleaned the AFM, i have checked for vacuum leakes.
Car has none of these problems, The car leaks oil a bit of oil but not sure from where(will leave a couple of big spots on the garage floor after its been driven.)
The previous owner says the car has 380hp but it really does no feel like it has half as much. What am i going to do?? Maybe my car just need a remap? Just anything you have to say will help me a ton. thanks

[frapjap]

Your symptoms have the tell tale signs of a tune that could use some work. I'd suggest someone in your area, but you don't have a location listed. Anyway, do some reseach and see if you can find a good tuner and see if those problems sort themselves out.

[blkvrtswp]

#4 is common from having a non-recirculated BOV. If you are running open air BOV, and you recirculate it the issue will probably disappear.

[Twinkman]

Already tried removing my bov, problem was still there

[blkvrtswp]

Ah, ok. Well, the reason open atmo BOV stalls the car is that it runs rich. So this also points back to the tune. Good luck!

[Twinkman]

Alright, im going to get my car remapped when i buy my new turbo and all that.
However i dont think the Oil pressure problem and cylinder 3 running lean can be fixed by simply a tune?
Any sugestions how to go about theese problems?

[blkvrtswp]

For the oil pressure - what is it at idle once fully warmed up? And what are you hitting at 5000 rpm? 120+ psi as you describe on startup is not normal.

- Perhaps an upgraded oil pump?

- My next guess would be a bad or incorrect range sensor (the Autometer ones stop working all the time).

- Also make sure you are not using too thick of an oil. I stick to the OEM recommendation from the FSM.

For the one troublesome cylinder - try swapping the coil pack and then separately the injector with another cyl and see if the problem follows the coil or injector. If it does, replace the bad item. If not I would check the coil & injector wiring to the ECU and the ECU, but at least you know which cylinder.

Good luck!

PS if you have stock injectors, MAF and ECU available you can try reinstalling & running those to shake out issues before a retune. Just be cautious with the boost!

[Twinkman]

Okay okay i will check the Coil/injector thing you talked about once i get my damn IACV gasket from Nissan and report back!
However i run 5w-50 oil and i have 2-3bar oil pressure at idle when warmed up (Normal i think)? 4bar when cruising at kinda low rpm

[russianphil18]

i agree with blkvrtswp about swapping the injector and coil around to find the issue with the lean cylinder. In regards to problem number 1 having high oil pressure at cold start is ok because your oil needs to warm up but your pressure is in excess and i believe thats due to the oil your using. thick oil is difficult to pass through small passages especially when its cold and only when it warms up will it thin out and flow better. along with high oil pressure comes blown seals so the oil leak might be tied in with that. and i agree with everyone else that your tune might have a problem as the ecu in closed loop is not catching the engine fast enough after a fast throttle change. does this happen under acceleration aswell? big injectors that were not properly tuned is what this sounds like.

my suggestions:

1) as blkvrtswp said swap around injectors and coils to find the issue with the lean cylinder
2) get rid of that thick oil and use normal stuff
3) get a tune for everything you have installed and make sure the tuner goes for responsiveness not just peak horse power and making the closed loop control correct the rest.

[Twinkman]

Okay so 15w-50 is a good oil?
And about the "burnt" spark plugs is that normal or whatsup? Its not only cylinder 3 spark plug that looked burnt at the ceramic part, all of them did