Common SR replacements

[ckamc]

Just as the title says... I am building up an SR with a new bottom end and was wondering what else I should replace before firing up the motor for the first time . I heard that one of the most lethal killers is the water pump... anything else or that even true? Im rebuilding in hopes to be able to keep the motor for 4+ years with the regular check ups.

[2Fass240us]

Im rebuilding in hopes to be able to keep the motor for 4+ years with the regular check ups.

Along those lines, I'd do damn near everything if I were you. I am almost finished rebuilding my POS Venus redtop right now. I started to take it apart, and found that the deeper I got into it, the more I realized that I needed a complete rebuild. So I purchased:> new OEM rod and main bearings> new water pump> new front cover / oil pump assembly> SR20DE timing chain kit and with "improved" chain guides and tensioner> a new full gasket kit from Phase2 (the $299 one)> 0.5mm overbore to 86.5mm to get fresh, true cylinder walls

I decided that I might as well buy:> a Nismo thermostat> CP pistons (86.5mm, 8.5:1 static CR) since the bore was larger> ARP rod, main, and head bolts; I could've used new stock headbolts, but decided on ARP's since they are more "reusable" than OEM ones (for stretch reasons)

This is most of the shortblock work I've done. I didn't buy new rods because the stockers were in good shape, and should hold all the crank HP I'll put out on this shortblock. I also came to the realization that my head needed some work, so it's being checked, getting new valve seals and exhaust valve guides, a 3-angle valve job, reshimmed, and some other small stuff.

I would be glad to post some of the prices I've paid with a complete parts listing if you'd like, but it'll take me a few days to get it all up on my website. Good luck, and let me know if I can be of further assistance.

-Andy

[ckamc]

Thanks Andy for your reply! Where did you get your oil pump assembly? I am acually considering a Venus motor unless I find a local for one thats cheap with a reliable vavle train... well I hope its reliable...

[180fan]

You do not need to overbore your block. Inspect it first. If it needs freshening, do it. Otherwise leave it be. I've seen enough SR's insides to see that not many of them need to be bored, but just a light hone and deglaze. If you do decide to stick with the stock bore, I believe JE's are the only ones that will fit the stock bore. CP's and Arias are the other pistons I looked into, they are oversized. My CP's are 86.5mm thus my need to bore.

You may not need a new oil pump assembly either. Inspection again. If you've got an impact screwdriver, use it and inspect it. Look for marks on the 2 gears in there. Also look for scoring on the walls. When reassembling, coat both of those gears with a good assembly lube for rotational parts, like redline's assembly lube.

The ARP main studs also have problems with the RWD application. If you check the part number for the SR's, it's built for the FWD application and clears their upper oil pan, not the RWD application like I've made a note of in the SR parts sticky. You will have to shave down the tops of two or three of them. I'll take pictures of my rebuild when I've got time to show you what I mean by it.

If you drive your car on the street, I do not recommend the Nismo thermostat. It'll keep your motor in the warm up phase alot longer than you'd like. If you're driving on the street, it'll ruin your milage.

[2Fass240us]

Thanks Andy for your reply! Where did you get your oil pump assembly? I am acually considering a Venus motor unless I find a local for one thats cheap with a reliable vavle train... well I hope its reliable...

I bought the whole oil pump / front cover assembly from Enjuku for $249.99 early last year. It now sells for $239.99. Worth every penny IMO.

If you do order from Venus, you might not get a piece of chit like I did, but be prepared for it. Personally, I would spend more money up front for more assurance that the motor is good. If at all possible, visit the engine supplier before you purchased the engine. I never would have bought my clip had I been able to look at it first.

Good luck,Andy

[2Fass240us]

You do not need to overbore your block. Inspect it first. If it needs freshening, do it.

Mine did, so I did. I would not recommend this if you could get by with a hone, because boring is frickin expensive to do it right (bore plate).

You may not need a new oil pump assembly either. Inspection again. If you've got an impact screwdriver, use it and inspect it. Look for marks on the 2 gears in there. Also look for scoring on the walls. When reassembling, coat both of those gears with a good assembly lube for rotational parts, like redline's assembly lube.

Good advice. I replaced mine because the engine had 100,000km on it and is slated for heavy track use. This is not exactly something I want to break...

The ARP main studs also have problems with the RWD application. If you check the part number for the SR's, it's built for the FWD application and clears their upper oil pan, not the RWD application like I've made a note of in the SR parts sticky. You will have to shave down the tops of two or three of them. I'll take pictures of my rebuild when I've got time to show you what I mean by it.

#4 & #5 mains, exhaust side. Per Scott Avoy (Enthalpy) on FA. This is a non-issue for me, as I have ready access to a lathe.

If you drive your car on the street, I do not recommend the Nismo thermostat. It'll keep your motor in the warm up phase alot longer than you'd like. If you're driving on the street, it'll ruin your milage.

My car is for track use only, as stated above. Two questions however:1) Why does it keep it in the warm-up phase longer? The opening temperature is lower (62*C versus 76.5*C), which means that it opens the other part of the cooling loop earlier. Does this mean that it takes longer to get up to operating temperature or something?2) Why will it ruin your mileage?

[ckamc]

Thanks 180fan for the info I will be sure to check that out! Andy: Looks like I am making a trip to some Cali shops soon since venus and Phase2 and 240sx I believe are based out there. 180fan: Yeah its true that you dont need to overbore especially with the block being alum. But if like you said the pistons require it... well then yup its time to get them bored for the snug fit. Also thanks for the info about the thermo i never knew that

BTW this is car will see the street more than the track since it will be my Daily Driver and I dont have the cash to be maintaining my car for before and after a track event

[180fan]

Reason for

1) Why does it keep it in the warm-up phase longer? The opening temperature is lower (62*C versus 76.5*C), which means that it opens the other part of the cooling loop earlier. Does this mean that it takes longer to get up to operating temperature or something?2) Why will it ruin your mileage?

1. Yes.2. You've already answered your own question with the second part of your #1.

[2Fass240us]

How does the engine taking longer to get up to operating temperature affect your gas mileage? I must be missign something...

[180fan]

The ECU dumps more fuel to compensate for a lower temperature. When it gets up to a designated point, it stops with the extra fuel and gets about its regular business.

[2Fass240us]

The ECU dumps more fuel to compensate for a lower temperature. When it gets up to a designated point, it stops with the extra fuel and gets about its regular business.

I wasn't aware of this...thank you for the explanantion.