Infinitiguy19 wrote:Why?
Still waiting for an answer...Infinitiguy19 wrote:Why?
The problem is the cooling system won't run anymore efficiently with a colder T-stat. Coolant will just flow sooner... You MIGHT shave a few degrees in temp off your first run, but that would be it - not enough to add any power.I want the car to run a bit cooler.
I've got the dual 16" electric fans installed on it now. But still want the cooler thermostat because once it cools it down to its closing point the fans won't do me much good if the coolant has stopped flowing.Brew Q wrote:The problem is the cooling system won't run anymore efficiently with a colder T-stat. Coolant will just flow sooner... You MIGHT shave a few degrees in temp off your first run, but that would be it - not enough to add any power.I want the car to run a bit cooler.
Now a fan that can push some serious air would help cool down between runs.
Good point, I honestly didn't even think of that. But I'm thinking a 10-20* lower opening heat range would be okay as in won't go into open loop?Q451990 wrote:Just make sure you keep the ECU above it's threshold (whatever that is) so that you don't drop out of closed loop...
Infinitiguy19 wrote:Anything less than 176*F (I think) and the ECU is in open loop. Anything more that 195*F and the ECU is in timing retard mode. Why are you trying to fix a problem that is not their? I would make sure the cooling system is perfect before try to fix what's not broken.
Yeah that was a problem for me and is if I am sitting. But the way I have the hood and other things setup once I get moving the engine bay has full cold air going into and around the intake. If it's a cooler day I can go for a drive, stop, pop the hood, and the intake runners are cool. In the winter they would be ice cold. I seen that problem a long time ago but good suggestion thanks.Brew Q wrote:What about custom phenolic intake spacers? The big metal spider surely absorbs heat the way it is stock.