cold start problem

Discuss topics related to the CA18DE and CA18DET series engines.
CA18DORI
Posts: 17
Joined: Thu Oct 20, 2005 7:24 am
Car: 89 240 coupe

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ive heard that the cold start problem is really common among ca's. does anyone know why and what causes it? the colder it is the harder it seems to start it up. takes about 2 or 3 minutes to start it up and you have to keep the revs up or it dies. and when it warms a bit and can keep an ok idle ill blip the throttle and itll bog down and misfire. any ideas or solutions. much thanks.


capwred
Posts: 598
Joined: Thu Jul 28, 2005 3:43 pm

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on my ca you have to crank it 3 to 4 times when it is realcold before it will stay running by it self.

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rico05
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Joined: Mon Jun 23, 2003 6:52 am
Car: 1992 RMS13 w/ CA18DET
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I've been fighting the cold start bug for about 18 months now. I have replaced everything I can think of short of my headgasket and intake mani to head gasket. Well, that and the ECU.

sideways danny
Posts: 348
Joined: Wed Jul 27, 2005 2:29 pm
Car: s13, CA18DET

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have you compression tested? some CAs are prone to inlet valve wear which causes cold start problems due to flooding. you can start easier by removing the fuel pump fuse and replace it once started

boost_boy
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Car: B12 sentra w/built CA18DET, B12 sentra w/fully-built CA18DET, S13 coupe w/ CA18DET, S13 hatch w/CA18DET, 2002 maxima SE
Location: Miami, FL.
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sideways danny wrote:have you compression tested? some CAs are prone to inlet valve wear which causes cold start problems due to flooding. you can start easier by removing the fuel pump fuse and replace it once started
If anyone have to remove the fuel pump fuse to start it then pushi it back in once it's running is experiencing a faulty water temperature sensor.

Dee

sideways danny
Posts: 348
Joined: Wed Jul 27, 2005 2:29 pm
Car: s13, CA18DET

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boost_boy wrote:If anyone have to remove the fuel pump fuse to start it then pushi it back in once it's running is experiencing a faulty water temperature sensor.

Dee
OR worn inlet valves, I've built god knows how many engines because of this fault

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rico05
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Interesting. My car runs very rich all the time. This could be my issue. I am going to try a good ol Seafoam and some tweaking to see if it helps, but I may just need to go ahead and get those head goodies I have been thinking about.

Damn....crap keeps happening, keeping me from getting my bigger turbo

CA18DORI
Posts: 17
Joined: Thu Oct 20, 2005 7:24 am
Car: 89 240 coupe

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yes ive checked compression and its fine im not too sure what else it could be

dattodude
Posts: 430
Joined: Wed Jun 29, 2005 2:51 am
Car: CA18DET Datsun 1200 B110 Sedan
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Cold Start.

- Blocked Idle Valve under the Throttle Body, clean with carby cleaner or Kerosine..- Incorrectly adjusted base Idle, it must be set with engine warm, and with AAC Valve connector removed. Set to 800rpm, then reconnect AAC connector.

Too rich:

- Incorrectly (or fiddled with) Throttle Position Sensor (set to 400rpm over idle as per manual) If you've played with it, without reading the manual.. it's very likely maladjusted.- Stuffed O2 sensor- Dripping injectors.


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rico05
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Car: 1992 RMS13 w/ CA18DET
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I set my TPS as per the FSM, but I just might need to give it another wack as I am no longer running stock throttle body. I have been really considering the leaky injectors and am planning on sending a set off for rebuild just for kicks.

ceniorstudies
Posts: 6
Joined: Sun Jan 08, 2006 6:00 pm

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dattodude wrote:Cold Start.

- Blocked Idle Valve under the Throttle Body, clean with carby cleaner or Kerosine..- Incorrectly adjusted base Idle, it must be set with engine warm, and with AAC Valve connector removed. Set to 800rpm, then reconnect AAC connector.

Too rich:

- Incorrectly (or fiddled with) Throttle Position Sensor (set to 400rpm over idle as per manual) If you've played with it, without reading the manual.. it's very likely maladjusted.- Stuffed O2 sensor- Dripping injectors.
ok so i have the cold start problem and i had a few questions. where exactly is the idle valve? how exactly do i clean it? will anything work to clean it with?

where is the aac valve? how do i adjust the base idle? please be in depth.

where is the throttle position sensor? how do i set this? what should i set it to?

pictures would be helpful as i have no idea what im doing.

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biosehnsucht
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Joined: Thu Feb 26, 2004 10:20 pm
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if he's referring to whats UNDER the TB what he means is the cold start air regulator.. basically its a diaphram that closes as it warms up; it has an electrical connection to it thatjust heats a wax element and makes it close, when it gets cold it opens up again.

but for starters .. go download the FSM! In the EF&EC section you'll find complete diagnostic procedures and diagrams showing where everything is, what its called, and how to test it. Most of the tests are simple to, either being of the sort of "should have X ohms resistance" or "has continuity" or their opposites, or sometimes even as simple as "does X happen?" with a flowchart of yes/no/etc and you just follow that.

RTFSM!

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rico05
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See, I have been over that section dozens of times, and I still have to let my car warm up. When it is cold, the car will not go if you give enough gas to go over 10inHg. So, if I try to boost cold, the car just bogs and sputters. Once warm, she is a freaking evil madwoman.

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biosehnsucht
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same for me but I KNOW I have at least one leaking hose, I just haven't got around to fix it yet


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