cold start and idle problem
cold start and idle problem
I re-installed my Z32 MAFS finally this time with the right sized piping hoping that that would eliminate the problem I was having when I put it on a long time ago. It seems to magnify a cold start problem I have always had dramatically. Normally when I start up I have to give it a bit of gas for a few seconds and then let it drop down and warm up and do it's thing. With the Z32 MAFS installed the car sounds like a big cam V8 and even at 100% throttle will still want to stumble and die every few seconds and I have to constantly give it gas to keep it going. After the car starts out it is veeery sluggish until i hit some positive manifold pressure then it drives normally (actually much faster then with the stock MAFS and intake). The car will idle very low (around 600-700rpm sometimes even in the 500's) until after I get on it a bit, then it will sometimes idle normally, and sometimes start at around 850rpm and slowly work it's way up to around 1100-1200 then suddenly and somewhat violently drop back down to 850 and repeat the process over and over again. That is unless my fans come on in which case it seems to idle perfectly. It was suggested when I had this problem before that it was a worn intake valve so I had a leakdown test done and it came back with perfect results so I don't think that is the problem. This is very aggrivating and hopefully one of you all can help me out.
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boost_boy
- Posts: 7051
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Quote »when i unplug my AAC the car just completely dies now !! is that not good?[/quote] Since that's your "AUXILLARY" system you make the call;) . Yeah, you have a serious problem bro'. Your Air regulator is out the door! It's only a bi-metal assembly that's controlled by heat and any moisture gets into the system as it will in Japan because of humidity, they can sometimes cease-up and cause you all the silly problems including driveability.
alrite, the air regulator is not supposed to suck air in after the car is already warmed up correct? I took off the hose and plugged up both ends and there was definate vacume periodically while idling. The thing is that even with the holes plugged, simulating what it it would be like if the air regulator valve was completely closed not letting any air by, my car still has that crazy idle. The weird part is that the harder i drive it the more normally it idles, but it degridates quickly. If i really get on it then let it idle, it will have a very strong and steady idle for a few minutes, then it will go into that thing where it goes 850-1300rpm or so over a few seconds time then drop back down to 850. If I let it sit long enough it eventually starts idling low and ruff, sometimes as low as 600's. So the AAC valve and the air regulator are both the same as the KA24DE's? I might as well replace both.
second question: I had accidentally been disconnecting the TPS when adjusting the idle screw and leaving the AAC plugged in (yeah im a dumbass), and just yesterday realized my mistake when looking over the FSM. Is there any way to reset it so that I can be sure the AAC is back to normal?
second question: I had accidentally been disconnecting the TPS when adjusting the idle screw and leaving the AAC plugged in (yeah im a dumbass), and just yesterday realized my mistake when looking over the FSM. Is there any way to reset it so that I can be sure the AAC is back to normal?
ok now my car isnt even driveable, its missfiing and sputtering, wont hold an idle stalls out all the time and its after 7 on a sat so no yards are open ! can this be the air regulator causing all this ? can i just bypass the silly thing ! the one on my 90 Ka was differant so i cant even use it ! this car is pissn me off so so much right now its about to get beat up with the sledge hammer...
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NisWerks240
- Posts: 29
- Joined: Tue Sep 17, 2002 3:46 am
- Car: CARS!!!
