Back when my car was running an open downpipe i had no cold idle problems at all. I then installed the exhaust and left the idle where it was for a while. With the exhaust i had a slight cold idle problem that was easily solved by around 20 seconds of playing with the throttle til the idle settled down and everything was fine (the exhaust may have nothing to do with it, it could just have been a coincidence of a problem arising around that same time). That problem soon started to get worse, to the point that i'd have to hold the rpm's around 1500 for a minute before i could drive it and then it would still take a bit for the idle to correct itselft (about a minute or two after it reached proper operating temp.) So i reset the idle again, thinking that the exhaust could have changed things a bit and lately, i've been having to let it warm up extensively before i drive it but the real problem is that the idle takes a while to get to the point it should be at. If I pull up to a stop i may have to sit there for 5-10 seconds before the idle will rise to the point it should be at. At first i was thinking air regulator but being that the problem seems to be getting worse, i dunno.
One more thing, when i start the car, if i try to hold the idle too low...say around 1k rpms then it will studder and stumble so that it why i hold it around 1500. Even at that rpm and with my foot in a constant position on the throttle, the rpms will change slightly from time to time, but not stumble, until it warms up. Any ideas guys? I plan to check a bunch of things come monday but if you have any more ideas that i haven't thought of then i'll check those out too!
EDIT: I forgot! I also installed a BOV around the same time the exhaust was put on so there is the possibility of a vacuum leak somewhere as well.
Cold Idle getting worse? (kinda long)
check your BOV for leak at idle and mid RPMS, take apart the ACC valve check it clean it raise your idle a bit more!, also clean the MAF by taking that thing apart via the two screws that hold the black box to the metal housing spray the filiments with brake cleaner, make sure your throttle plate isnt sticking to the TB. are you usning a broken AAC plate still?
welcome to the CA they hate cold start running, also always let the car idle 30-60secs before free reving it at all ! got to get that oil circulating before you spool that turbo up !
download aim and chat with us sometime!
welcome to the CA they hate cold start running, also always let the car idle 30-60secs before free reving it at all ! got to get that oil circulating before you spool that turbo up !
download aim and chat with us sometime!
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float_6969
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- Car: CA18DET swapped 1995 Nissan 240sx (too many mods to list)
2015 SV Leaf w/QC & Bose (daily) - Location: Topeka, Kansas
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Ditto what slw said. My first guess would be the ACC. Then any new components you installed. Though I wouldn't think it'd be the BOV due to it quitting at temp, unless I mis-read what he was saying. Try getting some spray cleaner (Seafoam is good stuff) and cleaning the said components out. I can't count the times that I've fixed something just by taking it apart, cleaning it and putting it back together. Good luck and let us know how it goes.
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float_6969
- Moderator
- Posts: 17366
- Joined: Mon Aug 26, 2002 1:55 pm
- Car: CA18DET swapped 1995 Nissan 240sx (too many mods to list)
2015 SV Leaf w/QC & Bose (daily) - Location: Topeka, Kansas
- Contact:
Maybe so but for the next month or so it's the only car i've got. I sold my other daily driver to pay for the swap and i'm about to buy some new rims and tires since the tires i've got on there are bald as hell. After that, i'll start saving up again for a beater car and then i can just bust out the CA once a week and for autoxes.