Coilover boucing?

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Rohanmax14
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My bc racing coilover boucing when going at 0-40 mph?
I have 2004 Nissan maxima wit 20" rim. Will can this be if rims are bent,inside tire wear out,or alignment?

I have not done alignment yet but I'm going to.


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Gabes13
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Try getting an alignment first. Have you ever had coilovers before? They are pretty bumpy

Rohanmax14
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pandapants wrote:Try getting an alignment first. Have you ever had coilovers before? They are pretty bumpy
I'll get alignment tommor then see what happen. No I never had coilover in past this is my first one one my maxima. I know they are bumpy but y do they do that?
I have camber plate in front will what do they do n do I need to tell tech alignment that I have camber plate in front?

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Gabes13
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Coilovers have higher spring rates than stock, so the ride is kinda bumpy. If you have stock wheels and tires it will contradict the new suspension and feel kinda, "bouncy". Try playing with the dampening knobs. Ride on some different roads and find a happy median. Camber plates are used to correct the camber of your front wheels. Since coilovers lower your car a substantial amount, the camber and other suspension geometry changes. If the tech doesn't know how to adjust you suspension, you should probably look for another alignment shop :) Enjoy your new coilovers.

Rohanmax14
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pandapants wrote:Coilovers have higher spring rates than stock, so the ride is kinda bumpy. If you have stock wheels and tires it will contradict the new suspension and feel kinda, "bouncy". Try playing with the dampening knobs. Ride on some different roads and find a happy median. Camber plates are used to correct the camber of your front wheels. Since coilovers lower your car a substantial amount, the camber and other suspension geometry changes. If the tech doesn't know how to adjust you suspension, you should probably look for another alignment shop :) Enjoy your new coilovers.
I'm on 20" rim 245/35/20. I been playing with my dampering n I think mine is set to 15 or 16 from 0. Manual book said hard is 0 n soft is 30 so if I want stock travel I should set it to 8 dampering. Should I set it to 8 n will I get better if I go with 17" stock wheel? I was thinking to buy strut tower bar is said it'll reduce bumpy n other thing which I can't remeber. So if I get alignment then after that my car won't boucne correct? Check out my vid of bc racing coilover.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FddCKG0kkqA

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Gabes13
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Tower bars just stiffen up the chassis. They should have no effect on ride comfort. Have you tried them on full soft yet?

Rohanmax14
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Yes I have they boucne alot when going at 0-40 mph.

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poshatch
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why are you going to start ANOTHER POST, when ALL your questions have been answered before in your last one concerning this SAME THING

this is going to be super simple, ready watch...

coilovers are more aggressive than stock, they arnt for luxury, end of story, period, done, its going to be bouncy even on full soft, i already said this, i already explained why as well...
20" rims dont help the ride either, i also dont believe that you are bottoming out because my car would tuck 2" of your rim easy and your not even tucking the wheel, you might scrape your exhaust or something because its not tucked but you are not bottoming out
the tires you are running are super thin sidewall and thats also going to make the ride rough, they dont obsorb bumps, makes sense right!
lowering your car is going to mess the alignment and that is also going to make the ride quality sucky, the camber plates are for CAMBER!! tell the alignment stop that you have them and they will adjust them to zero or whatever you want
a strut brace will NOT make it less bouncy, i have no idea where THAT CAME FROM, sounds like rice rationality to me

everything you have done to the car its conterproductive to what you want, you cant make ice cream in the blazing hot sun, no matter how BADLY you want to make it, no matter what you try to rationalize why you arnt making it, plain and simple if its HOT you cant make ICE CREAM!

i used this stupid medaphore since the car terminology isnt really making sence to you

please excuse me if i seem like a jerk, but these are simple things that have already been spoon fed to you in another one of your posts

good now that thats over i will try to get what you want:

if you want a nice ride quality and to be slamed, get replacement springs for your coilovers that have a softer spring rate?, get it aligned, get thicker sidewall tires (optional and/or lose those 20s), turn the dampening on the coilover to full soft (counter clockwise usually, all the way, drive it if it dosnt feel better, then try the other way..all the way, if its worse, go back the other direction, simple) OR simply get springs/struts made for luxury

Rohanmax14
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Okay guys finailly I got alignemnt that day when putting new tires flaken-452 on. I got 4 wheel alignment n balance tires. Will I think shop did not mess with camber plate cuz Im not super low like other car I have seen. Anyway my coilover still boucne on the hwy little not like jumping boucning. Lol

check out vids on bottom that the best I could made by iPhone vids.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FddCKG0kkqA

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LugNut18
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Rohanmax14 wrote:Okay guys finailly I got alignemnt that day when putting new tires flaken-452 on. I got 4 wheel alignment n balance tires. Will I think shop did not mess with camber plate cuz Im not super low like other car I have seen. Anyway my coilover still boucne on the hwy little not like jumping boucning. Lol

check out vids on bottom that the best I could made by iPhone vids.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FddCKG0kkqA
There is a difference between stiff a** shocks and a shock that bounces after hitting a bump. The little bit off bouncing that remains will stay there. The quality of the shock/spring determines this. If the car bounces or oscillates excessively then the valving is off. There are two parts of valving. Compression and rebound. Compression controls how fast the shock will compress and rebound how fast it "springs back". If the valving isn't matched to the spring you can get a multitude of characteristics such as bouncing. This is very characteristic of lower end brands ( Such as BC, Stance, Megan etc. ). Spring rate isn't everything in determining ride quality.

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poshatch
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i didnt know stance gr+pros were crap =[

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Gabes13
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Allegedly anything under 2700 is "crap"

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poshatch
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cause i mean last time i checked stance GR+ Pros were really really good coilovers

and i think megan tracks are pretty good..even the streets arnt that bad

Rohanmax14
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so I guess I'll show him this. He said every coilover bounce idk cuz I talk to any coilover comapany they tld me if coilover bounce then strut is blown. I was like they boucne when rd are crap like float rd other then that my coil don't bounce. I heard the only way we can tell if coilover blown or not is by driving over bump on hwy or city we will feel boucing right they but my coilover don't do that.

U think maybe I have bent rims that cause boucing sometime.?
LugNut18 wrote:
Rohanmax14 wrote:Okay guys finailly I got alignemnt that day when putting new tires flaken-452 on. I got 4 wheel alignment n balance tires. Will I think shop did not mess with camber plate cuz Im not super low like other car I have seen. Anyway my coilover still boucne on the hwy little not like jumping boucning. Lol

check out vids on bottom that the best I could made by iPhone vids.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FddCKG0kkqA
There is a difference between stiff a** shocks and a shock that bounces after hitting a bump. The little bit off bouncing that remains will stay there. The quality of the shock/spring determines this. If the car bounces or oscillates excessively then the valving is off. There are two parts of valving. Compression and rebound. Compression controls how fast the shock will compress and rebound how fast it "springs back". If the valving isn't matched to the spring you can get a multitude of characteristics such as bouncing. This is very characteristic of lower end brands ( Such as BC, Stance, Megan etc. ). Spring rate isn't everything in determining ride quality.

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Gabes13
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I doubt the coilovers are blown. If they were, they should be secreting some juice in the wheel well. You should ride in another car with coilovers.
poshatch wrote: cause i mean last time i checked stance GR+ Pros were really really good coilovers

and i think megan tracks are pretty good..even the streets arnt that bad
It's all garbage compared to the good stuff.

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LugNut18
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pandapants wrote:It's all garbage compared to the good stuff.
^ This

Stance is pretty good for the price. But when compared to Koni, KW etc. it's not. Unless you can afford ~$1600+ shocks and springs, you're going to have to sacrifice some handling characteristics and ride quality.

Rohanmax14
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I don't see no juice at all if is blown it would make bad noise like clunk or car be boucing alot. Correct me if I'm wrong. I talk to Honda dude he had coilover n he tld me his is blown n show me his car bounce way alot when he push it down is come right back up if he let his hand go his car will be boucing until it stop. Lol

he did check out mine n he tld me mine coilover is not blowing he said some rd will make coilover boucne a little. He said it depend where we drive.

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poshatch
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LugNut18 wrote:
pandapants wrote:It's all garbage compared to the good stuff.
^ This

Stance is pretty good for the price. But when compared to Koni, KW etc. it's not. Unless you can afford ~$1600+ shocks and springs, you're going to have to sacrifice some handling characteristics and ride quality.
Image

im sitting here thinking that stance GR+ pros were pretty good and you just rocked my worlds saying they are garbage

i dont even what to know what my tein HE's are (probably s*** compared to garbage)

weird...

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flohtingPoint
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poshatch wrote:
im sitting here thinking that stance GR+ pros were pretty good and you just rocked my worlds saying they are garbage

i dont even what to know what my tein HE's are (probably s*** compared to garbage)

weird...
Unless you compete in motorsports, it doesn't matter. If I had a car I just farted around in and wanted coilovers, I'd buy whatever crap was available for cheap.

@OP: Just order new springs from Eibach/Hyperco that have lighter spring rates. They're quite cheap...

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poshatch
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i go to the track and drift at least once a month, looking to get into more auto cross but i know my set up isnt correct for that sort of thing and i got to find a way/ time to change set ups depending on where i go

looking to comp. pretty soon actually so ill see how s*** my s*** s*** is s***

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flohtingPoint
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poshatch wrote:i go to the track and drift at least once a month, looking to get into more auto cross but i know my set up isnt correct for that sort of thing and i got to find a way/ time to change set ups depending on where i go

looking to comp. pretty soon actually so ill see how s*** my s*** s*** is s***
If you're looking to autox seriously, you're going to have to jack your rates up heavily. I run 800 lbs in front and 600 lbs in the rear.

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Gabes13
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Pos, don't sweat it man. I'm talking about the bog boys like Arogosta, Moton and Koni where setups can cost 3x as much as what the majority buys. Those companies can blow any jdm fad coilover out of the water with out trying. That being said, I still <3 my $1,000 coils.

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poshatch
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lets see i think mine are 9kg/mm f 7kg/mm r

sooo...yours are 800lbs per inch? i dont know if i did the math right but thats 363kg/in and thats 14kg/mm...thats intense! i would only go 10kg/8kg haha, i still need that bounce back

lol im going to run mine until they blow then try to sell them or something and hopefully ill have the funds to pick up a different set

i dont know what i want yet so im still very open...thinkin about a more expensive kind as well..my tein HE's are expensive but overly so

GR+PRO's, PSM, KTS Ultra lows is what im consittering at the moment but with the wait on PSM i dont know if i should i hear that the GR+ go that low and i know the ultra lows are dummy low


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