oh boy. my mechanic came by, ran a scan and it came back P0603. Internal Module Keep Alive Memory (KAM) Error.

quick background. My 2006 infiniti m35 has 175,000 miles. I changed my starter 6 months ago with the same mechanic as well as the battery. The other day after grocery shopping, my car didnt start. Onlu click. waited a few minutes and it started. Left if parked at home. Next morning , it starts. I shut it off and it wont start again.
Just a click, but it sounds like something is like a computer trying to do something. Then it also sounds completely quiet, just the click sound. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

P0603 is often leftover after a car's battery visits "la la land" between 7~8V. There's a bulletin about it. Given your recent battery woes, it's likely the code is meaningless.
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2018/ ... 4-9999.pdf

thanks for the reply. so my car wont turn on unless i leave it sitting for a day. it starts once then done. just click. im not sure why my scanner wont show any codes, if their is any issues. i bought a cheap $20 scanner btw.

This sounds very much like you have a power connection issue. Possibly a bad ECM relay if your scanner won't connect, but in any case, go over all your battery contacts at both ends, power and ground. It could be a bad post or broken strap inside the battery, too.

ill replace my ecm relay. that makes sense.

new update:
my car is still broke down sitting in my garage. i had another mechanic who specializes in electrical come by my place a few days ago. he ran his tests, didnt get any error code. went under the car, im assuming he used a screwdriver, and i heard the car try to crank. He told me the starter is bad. I replaced it 8 months ago. He told me that the oil leak, which might be coming from the oil pressure sensor, caused it to burn out.
So last night, i replaced the starter and new battery. Still , just a click no crank. ugggh. hes coming over on friday. im at a loss for options. any ideas.

There are really only three possibilities when a starter goes "click" and nothing else even when tripped with a screwdriver, and you know the battery and starter are good. Bad power connection, bad block ground, or the engine is seized.

I suppose it may be a good idea at this point to get under the car and rotate the engine by hand (well, with a socket wrench) and make sure it actually can turn over. Buying the right socket should be pretty cheap and definitely want to know if the engine can even turn or not before chasing down other stuff.

how do i manually crank the engine? what do i look for. aslo the mechanic(who works for a car dealership mechanic) said hes coming over tomorrow. he felt bad that he charged me $125, which i gave him $200. and told me it was the starter and battery. when he was here he told me 4 fuses were also popped which is not normal and he felt something shorted it. but he checked all the connections, his electrical tools didnt pick up any loos of power, and went under the car and thats when i heard the engine try to crank. i guess i have to wait to see what he says. I just like to fix things and right now used cars are way overpriced. I went to a well known honda dealer. they had a 66k 2014 lexus es350 for 22k. sounded like a fair deal. when i got there, the carfax on the seat said hit had an accident, with the paper marking the left, front, and right side and was labeled "SEVERE". Dealers are brining in junk right now.even new cars are not so overly priced, but theyre about $2000-4000 over msrp

Talk to the mechanic who is coming over and say it was mentioned to you be an awesome Inifniti tech that a possible cause is the engine may be seized and so while he is there if he could try manually cranking the engine over. That way he knows ahead of time and hopefully has the right sized socket to bring already. I think it might be 27mm?

nice. ok ill tell him. is it like a garbage disposal that gets locked up? once you crank it manual, it "unfreezes?"

sonnyboy80 wrote: ↑

Thu Apr 14, 2022 8:23 pm

nice. ok ill tell him. is it like a garbage disposal that gets locked up? once you crank it manual, it "unfreezes?"

No, not really. An engine should never be locked up. If it is, the engine will have to be rebuilt or replaced.

update. my mechanic was able to get the car running when he connected his computer to it. but when he removed it died. so he said its either the ignition button or the main computer. so hes gonna get the parts and try to get it done tomorrow.

sonnyboy80 wrote: ↑

Mon Apr 18, 2022 12:54 pm

update. my mechanic was able to get the car running when he connected his computer to it. but when he removed it died. so he said its either the ignition button or the main computer. so hes gonna get the parts and try to get it done tomorrow.

If it's the ECM, you can get a new refurbished unit for $315. I just had to replace my ECM for a vehicle a purchased a few months ago that came with a dead ECM.

so good news. my car is back on the road. the mechanic switched the ecm and the push to start button. He thinks my oil leak might have burnt out the starter and caused a short. he thinks the oil pressure is the source of the leak, so he strongly suggested i fix it so it doesnt mess with the starter again. i found one on ebay but its called an oil pressure switch. is that the same thing? it looks like an eazy fix. anyhow, so glad i didnt have to buy a new car or highly overpriced used car for now thanks for the help guys

Should be a sensor and not a switch on anything '06. Plug your VIN into InfinitiPartsDeal and get the Infiniti p/n, then use that to google instead of MMY. That will get you to the right part just about every time. And yes, oil and starters don't mix well in the long run. Ask anybody with that silly VG33 setup with the oil filter right above the starter.

sonnyboy80 wrote: ↑

Wed Apr 20, 2022 4:01 pm

so good news. my car is back on the road. the mechanic switched the ecm and the push to start button. He thinks my oil leak might have burnt out the starter and caused a short. he thinks the oil pressure is the source of the leak, so he strongly suggested i fix it so it doesnt mess with the starter again. i found one on ebay but its called an oil pressure switch. is that the same thing? it looks like an eazy fix. anyhow, so glad i didnt have to buy a new car or highly overpriced used car for now thanks for the help guys

Call the dealer and ask them to provide you with the part number you need. Once you have it, then you can start looking for the correct part albeit used or new.

here we go.
so my mechanic changed the psuh to start button and the ecm last week, . car has been running great this past week, today, after driving throught the hills, my car started hesitating going into first gear when i was at a astop. then when i got it home and reversed into my garage, i hear a clank like the transmission isnt shifting right. i ran a scan i and i got code P1757 "manufacturer control". I went on you tube and saw a mechanic fix this problem buy soldering a broken metal link inside the transmission. do you think it is related to switching the ecm and posible its not shifting right. or am i screwed. ive never had slipping until i got my car back with the replaced ecm.

P1757 is an electrical code for the Front Brake Solenoid in the tranny. If it isn't from a broken wire then the solenoid is bad, there's nothing mechanical that will cause that particular code. I don't know if anyone sells aftermarket solenoids, the FSM calls for replacing the Valve Body. It's very doubtful that your earlier issue had anything to do with it.

thanks 4 the reply but why im confused is that my trasmission never slipped until after the ecm was replaced.

The ECM and TCM are only indirectly related to one another. The TCM is located inside the tranny on the bottom of the Valve Body, and it has direct control over the transmission solenoids. Since the code indicates an open or short circuit in one solenoid, it's pretty much impossible for the ECM to have caused it, or even participated in the failure. What you have is a subsequent but unrelated problem.