Code 34

Nissan 300ZX technical discussion forum: Maintenance, performance, installations, modifications, how-to's and troubleshooting.
RCZIII
Posts: 13
Joined: Mon Jan 30, 2017 7:02 pm
Car: 94 300zx 87k 5 spd convertible!

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I believe the connection to my detonation sensor circuit was connected to the wrong one that looks identical. When I switched them. I reset my ecu and code 55 flashed. Does that mean I fixed the problem? Check engine light came off... but then I had to shut the car down because my oil pressure was reading 0psi after it warmed up completely. Also code 32 egr flashed but hasn't set off a code. Maybe sucked up some bad gas or maybe loose connection with vacuum lines not sure haven't looked into it. Hoping my oil pressure really wasn't that low? No weird noises may have ran funny for a second but my mind could have been playing tricks on me. Anyone know anything about putting in a jeep on or boring it out ? Or have suggestions. I know oils pretty old been sitting awhile. But soon it's gonna be on the road trying to work out all the kinks. If your still reading I guess I'll mention one last thing dash lights don't work turn on my headlights and the clock dims (the only thing left that actually lights up). Thanks


RCZIII
Posts: 13
Joined: Mon Jan 30, 2017 7:02 pm
Car: 94 300zx 87k 5 spd convertible!

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Also when I hit my brakes the dash shows a headlight symbol. Like high beams or something...

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Ace2cool
Posts: 11650
Joined: Sun Apr 20, 2008 5:21 pm
Car: 1991 Nissan 300ZX TT
1966 Datsun Fairlady 1600
2005 Suzuki GSX-R 600
1974 Honda CB550 Four
2009 Ford F150 Lariat
Location: Murfreesboro, TN

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Sounds like you've got some very common issues going on. EGR is almost guaranteed to be going out by now. Most people delete and either deprogram or resistor the connection.

Oil pressure sensor is also a very commonly failed part. The hole in the end of the sensor is so small that it can easily get gunked up. Some people have drilled the hole a bit bigger with limited success, but more often than not, a new sensor can fix that. Oil pumps on these don't go bad as often as some vehicles.

And lastly, the red light is telling you that you have a brake light out. There's a green sensor that reads the resistance of the tail lights somewhere in the interior panels on the driver side in the hatch. If you have swapped to aftermarket tails with LED's, there's nothing you can do. Otherwise, find the culprit bulb and replace. Also, if you have JDM tails, the bulbs they're shipped with have a different resistance than the stock bulbs and will also trigger the light. If you check all 4 brake bulbs and they're working, then it's probably one of the 3rd brake light bulbs. The 3rd brake light has either 4 or 5 bulbs, depending on year. If ALL of that checks out, clean the contact points on the 3rd brake light.

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Ace2cool
Posts: 11650
Joined: Sun Apr 20, 2008 5:21 pm
Car: 1991 Nissan 300ZX TT
1966 Datsun Fairlady 1600
2005 Suzuki GSX-R 600
1974 Honda CB550 Four
2009 Ford F150 Lariat
Location: Murfreesboro, TN

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Oh, and for the dash lights, I'd say it's a fuse. Do the radio and interior lights work?

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DCaff300ZX
Posts: 4202
Joined: Sun Jun 14, 2009 8:18 am
Car: .
1993 CRP TT- Modified
Location: Tacoma, Washington

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Ace has you covered here, but I'll add that you should also do a run on all of the various electrical connectors which will almost definitely be corroded (greenish crud) and need cleaning and reassembly with di-grease.
These cars are VERY dependent on their electrical controls and consistent maintenance, so you may well need to do a pretty deep sweep to get her back up to snuff if she's sat too long, and/or not gotten consistent maintenance.


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