Code 32 and I need pictures!!!

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elwesso
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Well last night driving home from muncie I got a CEL (first time since I owned the car)..... Checked the codes today and its Code 32, EGR function.... I messed with my vacuum hoses yesterday and it didnt do it before.....

I did a search and its probably the EGR solenoid thingy or maybe the EGR-BPT valve.....

I think the problem lies somewhere in the vacuum lines.... So I ask, could someone please give me a picture of the EGR valve and surrounding areas.... Id prefer a 94-95 california model......

I was just PRAYING it wasnt something like an injector or something like that, fortunately its something I can deal with when I feel like it.....


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Q451990
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Could it be that your EGR Pipe connection finally came loose?

Heath

DougQ45
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The EGR solenoid is located under the drivers side plastic cover which covers the #1 fuel injector. I did one a while back, and was about $68 from Joe T. There are 2 solenoids side by side (1 is EGR, other is ???), replacement is a little tricky, don't drop the nut that attaches the solenoid to the metal frame. It is easy to trace by following vaccum lines back to EGR.

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Q451990
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Actually I think you're thinking of the canister purge control valve. The EGR control solenoid is near the EGR valve, unless they moved it in later years. Both solenoids are the same part, just a different location and function.

Heath

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Heath: They did move it, and only after I spent an unsuccesful hour searching for the 94 solenoid with my 1990 service manual--did I find out--what a dose of bad luck!! You are right, the second valve is the cannister purge now that you mention it.

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Q451990
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Thanks for the clarification. I just checked my .pdf copy of the 94 service manual and you're absolutely right!

Wes, check out page EF&EC-9 in your manual... that'll tell you a lot about the vacuum hose routing. Also see EF&EC 109 for the location of the EGR Gas Temp. Sensor connection. You should be able to check it with a multimeter and see if it's working correctly (EF&EC 221). I'd follow the step x step process on EF&EC 102 after eliminating the EGR tube not being tight issue first.

Heath

VenCountyQ
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Wes,

If you were messing with the vacuum hoses, 99% it is the cause. I just finished the plenum job on my 94Q this weekend. After putting the car back together and driving about 20 miles I got code 32. I had forgotten one of the vacuum hoses connections under the plenum right under where the brake booster hose connects. I determined this by disconnecting the vacuum hose from the EGR valve and using a vacuum gauge on the hose - no vacuum.

Here is one thing to check. Of the two vacuum control solenoids the EGR solenoid is the one nearest the front of the car. Disconnect the two vacuum lines from the tube assembly that meets the EGR solenoid on the air filter side of the car. If you blow air into hose coming from under the plenum that connects to the EGR valve you should feel air coming out of the tube assembly near the solenoid.

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elwesso
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Thanks for all the help so far..... Let me go in order

Heath- I dont think its the connection, becuase I had no problems until I messed with the vacuum lines...... There is also a seperate code for the EGR temp sensor..... I also dont think its the solenoid because again, it worked fine before....

VenCounty- Do you have that little cluster of tiny hoses right near the EGR control solenoid??

Let me just clarify that the little hose that connects to the plenum to the little metal hose is disconnected..... All the other EGR hoses are hooked up, I think.... I will double check this, and report back when my vacuum line comes in.....

VenCountyQ
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I have that cluster of hoses near the control solenoids. Two horseshoe shaped hoses per solenoid on the air filter side. Given each set, they shouldn't cross over each other.

The vaccum hose that connects directly to the plenum and not just to one of the tubes attached to the plenum is for the fuel pressure regulator. The EGR vacuum hose and tube runs just beneath and perpendicular.

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elwesso
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Thats what I thought...... I'll look into that....

But I wonder, I checked the EGR valve right as I got done with teh plenum. It was fine, and I havent messed with any of the EGR vacuum lines.... I hope this isnt a solenoid, because if it is I'll probably just live with the CEL.... Who needs the EGR anyway!!! Screw emissions!! :D

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Q451990
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elwesso wrote:I hope this isnt a solenoid, because if it is I'll probably just live with the CEL...Who needs the EGR anyway!


The EGR helps reduce spark knock by keeping the cylinder temp. cooler, so you do have some performance gains too. The solenoid is easy to replace, but rarely fail - have you checked the EGR tube to make sure it hasn't loosened up too much?

Is the EGR operating? You can check that by feeling the bottom of the valve. It should lift and flutter between about 1500 and 3000 RPM after the car is warmed up.

Heath

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elwesso
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I checked it today, and it doesnt flutter.... I will again look into my vacuum lines and report back..... I dont drive my car so the EGR comes on daily anyway, so it doesnt really matter just yet.....

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To paraphrase a post from Q45tech a few months ago: "...the CEL is only triggered by an electrical failure, it does not light upon mechanical failure... Me humbly thinks its your solenoid.

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elwesso
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Crap... I'll look into the FSM for more details on diagnostic procedures.....

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Well in this case no egr would result in a wrong egr temperature sensor reading...............how the ecu checks if egr is working.

EGR gases are hotter so the sensor measures the fact that the gases are +200F or higher.

The 90-93 used a convoluted program to look at O2 sensor and see if EGR opening corresponded with changes..........didn't work most of the time when O2 got older......thus the simpler and more sensitive hot exhaust test at the inlet to plenum for 94 and later and some earlier California cars.

Most 90-93 find out when it fails Nox emission test.

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elwesso
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So is the general consensus that its most likely the solenoid???

DougQ45
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The soleneid that went out on me was sporadic. Wouldn't trigger the CEL until several miles of driving, after cycling on and off many times I'm sure. Finally it missed a couple of cycles, and trigerred the CEL. Solenoid replacement solved the problem--but no guaranty as to your problem. I suppose it could be something elso, but for $68 and 1 hour time you will find out for sure.

timatt
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Alright, I gotta ask. Whyya selling after all the work you've put in?????

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elwesso
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I am going to do all the diagnostic procedures before I start replacing things....... MAN I wish i had a consult!!

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Q451990
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elwesso wrote:I am going to do all the diagnostic procedures before I start replacing things


:ylsuper Good man! If only some of the so-called master techs. I've heard of would do the same!! :ylsuper

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elwesso
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Sticking a probe into a hole and looking at a meter reading is cheaper than calling Joe... I swear I call that guy every time and spend twice as more as I was planning.... Oh well at least its for a car that matters!!!

DougQ45
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A consult is $85 in Los Angeles, so the $68 part is cheaper than the diagnosis. The only probelm is when you are wrong on your educated guess---then you are out the price of the part. Wes try this, 1) hook a simple 12V light up to one terminal on the solenoid and one end on positive side of battery cable, 2) hook up a wire to the other terminal on the solenoid run wire to negative side of cable. If your 12V lights, you have power to the unit. Now, disconnect the 12V light to the solenoid, and listen for the solenoid to cycle/shut. Repeat several times, and make sure it cycles each and every time. If it sticks or doesnt activate, then that is likely the probem, and also the cause of the CEL. With the bad one I had to replace, it would NOT cycle about every 4th test. Just some dumb bankers thoughts.

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aaronl
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Wes, what did you eventually find?

aaron

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elwesso
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My car died with the symptoms... Im thinking that due to my plenum i mixed up some hoses somewhere......

I have a few extra EGRC solenoids if youd like to have them.....


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