Code 32 and Code 34 Help!

[Qlicious]

Ok, I recently purchased a 94Q with 80k. The problem I'm having is at 1,500-2000rpm the engine starts to bog. and power is decreased substantially. It feels, and kind of sounds, as if the ignition was being retarded. The CEL comes on and off while driving, but not until its warm. I replaced the fuel pump(it was buzzing) and recently replaced the egr valve and cleaned all around it and in the ports and everything. The carbon was not bad at all. I tested the egr, and it does not flutter, but if I press up on it, the engine dies. I'm not sure how to check the bpt valve, but I have a 92 service manual that says to suck on one of the two ports and to check for leakage. I took off the hose that connects the bpt and the egr and I sucked on it and I felt no vacuum. I heard the air coming through the bpt. Was I doing this correctly? I don't have a vacuum tester, so I had to resort to other methods.

Today I checked my error codes, and I got a 32 and a 34. Somewhere on this forum, I've read that having a faulty egr (solenoid, valve, etc.) will raise cylinder temp. and make the ignition retard. Is this correct? I haven't checked the solenoid yet. That's my next step. Could the faulty egr be making the KS code trip somehow? I would rather have a faulty solenoid than having a faulty KS, for obvious reasons.

Oh yeah, one more thing. A couple days ago, I was driving back to work from lunch and it had no problem. For the first time since I've had the car, it unleashed it's fury! The Q accelerated like it was intended to. The day before was when I replaced and cleaned the egr system. But, as I was driving home form work the same day, it started again I live in South Fla, so T3 is out of the question and the dealer.....well, we all know about the dealer. So anyone who can help will be a great person.Thanks in advance.

[elwesso]

Well you have a goofy EGR and bad Knock Sensors..... I think the problem with your EGR is the EGR-C solenoid... What you can do is take the harness connector off the EGRC solenoid, and at idle it should read 0v.. At 2000 RPM(ish) it should read 12v... Then you can apply 12v to the EGRC solenoid, and see if the EGR valve lifts..... If not then you have a vacuum leak... Not fun.....

I have a few extra EGRC solenoids ill sell/give you.....

The KS only throw a code when they are bad, not when they detect knock.. Your timing is being retarted about 6-7 degrees..... Thats a LOT.....

The EGR problem shouldnt have anything to do with acceleration, but it is causing the CEL... Does the CEL ever go off??? Maybe your valve is sticking..... Sometimes it can get enough vacuum built up......

I love that you have done your research before posting..... Makes me very happy

Attached is the picture from the FSM where the EGR solenoid is... I have a 94 manual availble, email me......

[Qlicious]

Thanks elwesso for your prompt response.KS bad......just what I didn't want! The obvious next question is what are the steps to replacing them. I know this job will involve removing the plenum, so I should also replace all the hose underneath. Who has the best deal on the KS and the under the plenum hose replacement kit?

As far as the EGR, the CEL is intermittent. It comes on only when warmed up. It also seems to run a bit better with less retarting as soon as the CEL comes on. After reading all the posts on this forum, this situation is becoming strange to me. Tomorrow I will check the solenoid.

I'd love to get my hands on a 94 manual.

Thanks again.

[elwesso]

Email me for manual.. [email protected]

I have hte best prices for KS as well..... $100 each..... I dare you to find a better price that doesnt include eGay..

have you seen http://www.q45.org