Code 32 and code 34 check engine light on

[RickJC288]

So I looked up the codes and egr function and detonation sensor circuit and that's all but are there any easy ways to handle this situation or am I screwed for the most part and forced to take it in to a mechanic? I've done work to this car and one thing after the next with it and I'm not at the financial stand point to pay a sH** ton for them to drop the trans just to replace such a small part. Even though I've read you can take off the Phelan. The car still runs and gets me around but I'm scared of it just giving out and leaving me stranded till the tow trucks sends it in.
Please help and if there's easy ways around this let me know.

[rgregoryb]

Na or TT if it is a Na you can order a bypass from conceptzperformance to eliminate the code. It is about 16 dollars.... This is for detonation sensor

[RickJC288]

I went throw the spark plugs and one of the spark plug threads were completely blown out so I bought a helicoil kit installed that now I'm letting the high tempt sealant harden for 24hrs till tomorrow to start the car up and hopefully that will remove my
Code 34. If not then I'll have to get the relocation kit. I also tried adjusting my TPS and I think that thing is shot! Once I got it to 3kohms my multimeter shows it goes back to 400ohms so I think that is done also the rest of the readings are all off

[rgregoryb]

The TPS should read 4-5 volts at idle. 4.5 is ideal

[DCaff300ZX]

Check both connectors for corrosion and clean if they have green crud in them, which may be your issue unless the harnesses are bad.

[itsa300zx]

The TPS should read 4-5 volts at idle. 4.5 is ideal

0.4-0.5 volts is ideal at idle. 4-5 volts max at full throttle.

[rgregoryb]

The TPS should read 4-5 volts at idle. 4.5 is ideal

0.4-0.5 volts is ideal at idle. 4-5 volts max at full throttle.

You are correct, I had a brain fart