Clutch

[Sr20_44]

Changed my clutch. Spec stage 2 with stock Sr flywheel. Before it had a smaller flywheel just couldn't find the correct clutch kit. I adjusted at the firewall to have the clutch engage more towards the middle. Here's the problem. While I'm driving the car the engage point creeps it's way to the top until I barely have to press the clutch in to engage/disengage. Any help?

[centralcoaster33]

I would bleed it and adjust my pedal again.

[Sr20_44]

I've tried that. No luck and doesn't make sense ahah

[centralcoaster33]

Of course! Doing the same thing again is only useful if you did it incorrectly the first time, then correctly the second time. I've done it incorrectly the first time and didn't really notice until I was going uphill and the clutch was slipping. That was a pedal adjustment to fix it. I'm not assuming mistakes, I'm just taking your word that something is wrong and hoping to help. The bleeding could be complicated if you've retained your booster piping. Maybe you didn't get a new slave like recommended. I was thinking about your post and thought if there was a clog in the lines or something wrong with your master, then maybe it's not letting the fluid return upon clutch release... at least not all the way, so it would sort of build up pressure in the line that would gradually move your fork into release. Maybe the pipe was bent to bypass the booster and it was bent too tight and is now sort of kinked. I figure if the things are all bolted down correctly, there isn't really any room for something to physically be out of whack, like your fork not sitting on the pivot or something. Do you have any more detail to add about your clutch job, what was replaced, rebuilt or reused, or did you do everything by the book (new bolts, torqued to spec, OEM parts, etc.)? Maybe some detail on that 'smaller flywheel' and odd clutch kit searching?

[PapaSmurf2k3]

Could also be a bad master or slave. As you drive it and things heat up, seals expand and do their job better, etc.