Hey guys. New issue. Car’s stuck in neutral. So I’m on a fresh engine build, car has like 40 miles on it after dyno break-in.

Had to replace the oil pan to fix an oil pressure issue. I noticed while driving after sorting that out that the clutch would slip under hard acceleration. Wasn’t sure what was causing it - clutch not handling the new power, or just worn out, etc.

It got worse over time, only like 10 miles maybe. Then next time I got in the car, the clutch wouldn’t disengage and go into gear.

After reading many forum posts, I figured it may just be some air in the lines. Went to bleed them, the top fender bleed doesn’t bleed. Like at all. I can take the bleed nipple all the way off and nothing comes out. I was able to bleed the slave no problem. But the top bleeder just won’t.

So the lines clogged? I have no idea what to do about that. There seemed to be a small amount of air in the slave when I bled that. But no more air after the first bleed. Was hoping I wouldn’t have to change the master cylinder or slave cylinder. But now I’m concerned about that top line being clogged so How could I change them if I can’t bleed the system.

Okay slight update. The “upper” bleed valve seems to have been previously deleted, so of course it’s not bleeding form there. There is a SS clutch line that seems to lead straight from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder.

We replaced the slave cylinder which was almost certainly original. Bled it fully. Pedal now feels like it has solid pressure. Very firm. The slave LOOKS like it’s fully extending, but I’m not entirely sure if it has a few extra cm it could go or if it’s all the way.

Have to order the master cylinder. Will replace that as it’s certainly original as well. But beyond that, what else could it be? The clutch assembly is the only thing left. The fork was already upgraded. The clutch assembly is AM but came used when it was put in the car previously - not sure what clutch it is or what power it’s meant to hold. Could very well be worn out.

The clutch system is pretty simple, if its not a hydraulic problem its physical breakage. I've heard (never seen with my own eyes) of the spring fingers on the pressure plate breaking/bending to the point where the normal travel of the clutch would not disengage it. Also when you replaced the clutch fork was the pivot point replaced as well? ITs not unheard of for the pivot ball to break.

I believe the pivot ball was replaced. But I'm not 100% sure. It's been almost 6 years since I've bought the car and that's when that stuff was replaced. At this point I feel like I might as well plan on replacing the clutch with a brand new kit, just so I KNOW what is in there and the condition it was when it went in - especially with the engine being a fresh build.

I may spend the time to take the bell housing off and check everything before I order a new kit.

Coincidentally, any suggestions on clutch kits? I haven't really seen any bad reviews for pretty much any system that's out there. Just figured I'd ask.

RPS, Specialty Z, DXD-Southbend