Clutch slipping, but new (i think)

[gtrpryde]

Yeah ive searched, but this is a somewhat different problem (also posted on someone elses thread)I bought the car about 4 months ago, and the guy i bought it from said he redid almost all the seals on the engine and replaced the clutch with an oem one(also resurfaced flywheel). after this- the car sat for about a year until i bought it. so he says the clutch was brand spainking new when i got it- maybe 25 miles on it. i drove it around for about a 100miles before i hit WOT, and the first launch was awful. i launched at about 3000 and the clutch just totally slipped. i have never been able to launch the car without it slipping, unless i launch at maybe 1800-2000...pointless right? so yeah ive been pretty lost about that. every now and then, when i floor it through the gears, i can only do it one or two times- then the clutch become very slippy. another example is its slipped several times but not lately coming out of 1st. maybe the whole problem is that i have an oem clutch(or possibly cheap autozone one) and are expecting it to always grab. point being- it slips alot when i drive it hard, which is quite depressing to me. now im pressed on cash so im looking for the cheapest solution. but if i need a new clutch- ill go ahead and start saving. thanks alot guys. (and gals)

[gtrpryde]

also- the clutch has never slipped when driving normal.

[gtrpryde]

bump on a log!

[GTR PrYdE]

bump

[ricebike]

well, like brakes, the clutch disc needs some "break-in period" before it can grip effectively (ever heard of "bedding" the brake pads? similar concept)... from what i've heard, ~500 miles stop-n-go is the average.

But when u beat on the car after it sat for a while like that, i'm afraid u glazed the surface of that friction disc.

but u say never slipped when normal driving? hmm, mebbe just the design of a normal stock replacement kit from autozone or something, weaksauce pressure plate springs...

time to save for a "higher performance" ACT clutch kit or something similar if you're going to do more "spirited driving" <shrugs>

[gtrpryde]

well...i guess i cant say i didnt expect that. i just wanted to know for sure that was the case. about the freeplay(adjusting pedal right?), i ended up taking the screw out because it came loose while driving one day, so its in my glovebox. i wont even ask about which clutch to get... theres so many... but i do like the Centerforc DF for the price, but the Spec stage II seems a little better just with a higher price. I wont go turbo for about another year, but i would really just like as clutch that can grip well when im feeling "spiritied." thanks for the help ricebike

[ricebike]

well...i guess i cant say i didnt expect that. i just wanted to know for sure that was the case. about the freeplay(adjusting pedal right?), i ended up taking the screw out because it came loose while driving one day, so its in my glovebox.

DING! DING! DING!

That may very well be the cause... knuckle up & get it done ASAP!

[GTR PrYdE]

DING! DING! DING!

That may very well be the cause... knuckle up & get it done ASAP!

DING! DING! DING!

That may very well be the cause... knuckle up & get it done ASAP!

get what done? im a little confused on which you meant...

[NISTECH]

What screw are you talking about? You clevis might be out of adjustment. The clevis is the fork from the clutch master that connects to the pedal with the clevis pin. With the pedal released the fork should float freely on the pin[ not be pulling the master rod back or pushing it forward. If it is pushing it forward it will not allow full clutch engagement. You adjust it by loosing the lock nut butted up against the clevis on the master rod. Then you adjust the rod so the clevis pin will freely slide side to side in the clevis, then tighten up the lock nut.

[GTR PrYdE]

The screw i was talking about was the one that adjust the clutch pedal height. Not the one up by the fork. Thanks for the info, ill check it out tomorrow.Could it be that the clutch just sucks? Right now it couldnt launch and squeak the tires if life as we know depended on it. Every now and then i try, but i always come up dissapointed. I dont drive my car to hell either, im rough sometimes but i think i take pretty good care of it. Awww...id be so happy if it is just the pin...

[NISTECH]

At this point the glazing of the surface has probably occured but if your adjustment is out you will see an improvement to launches. It just wont be 100% of what it could be.

[GTR PrYdE]

AHH!!! i almost forgot to mention... When i try to launch, or even after a hard run, the clutch(or at least i think so) smells of burning, its that distinct smell of... burning lol. Once again, this is on a supposedly new clutch that was resurfaced when installed with new T.O. bearing. NISTECH, you know too much for your own good. Thanks

EDIT: i did forget to mention

[NISTECH]

If I was that smart I wouldnt be fixing cars for a living, but since I was not smart enough to get away from that, you would think I would at least have the sence to charge for the knowledge I share with this site..lol Oh yea I know why I dont. Money may make the world go round but I dont let the greed for the almighty dollar control my life as many do.

[GTR PrYdE]

well, i tinkered with the clevis pin, as it was somewhat tight, and after several runs, the car could launch slightly better, but still slipped if pushed the least bit too far. solution- new clutch, and resurfaced flywheel, so time to start saving. what was weird though, was that the pin tighted back up after the test runs, so i kept adjusting it, and im not sure if its tight now, i just got it where i wanted while free. its adjusted pretty low to the floor, but not so much it stays engaged. anyone have any thoughts on why it tightens back up, and even began to slightly engaged(slip) on its own, to where i had to add more slack? thanks

[NISTECH]

It should not be tightening back up. I am wondering if there is some air in the system or if it is drawing air in somewhere. THe clutch pedal should be able to return to full hight on its own after reaching center point of travel. If the return spring is weak it could be allowing the pedal to fall and rest on the fork which may be why it keeps tightening up on ya.