Clutch Slave Cylinder Removal & Installation write up

General discussion forum about the 240sx, and a great place to introduce yourself to the board!
Truck
Posts: 18
Joined: Tue Jun 19, 2007 12:24 pm
Car: 1989 Nissan 240sx XE

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The original poster didn't fully explain everything, and when he copied the FSM, he left an important detail out.

Lets clear this up.

Bleeding ProcedureBleed air according to the following procedure.Clutch dampener --> Clutch Operating Cylinder (slave cylinder)1. Top up reservoir with recommended brake fluid.2. Connect a transparent vinyl tube to air bleeder valve.3. Fully depress clutch pedal several times.4. With clutch pedal depressed, open bleeder valve to releaseair.5. Close bleeder valve.6. Repeat steps 3 through 5 above until brake fluid flows fromair bleeder valve without air bubbles.

Yes, use brake fluid. Dot 3 is the recommended spec. If you are unsure what or where the Clutch Dampener is, it's location is between the Clutch master, and the clutch slave. It is a Box with two hard lines, one to the master cylinder, one to the slave, and also a bleeder valve.

There are links to the FSM for the 89 model year (on this website) with some pictures of these parts, if you need more clarification.



rsagen
Posts: 237
Joined: Wed Jun 10, 2009 7:54 pm
Car: 1989 240SX Coupe 5sp SOLD
1989 240SX Hatch auto SOLD
1990 240SX Coupe auto WRECKED
1990 240SX Hatch auto
1990 Jetta Turbodiesel 5sp FEILD BAGGED
1997 Jimmy 4WD
1985 Chev Wrangler
1994 F150 4X4

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I got my 5sp in and the clutch feels good. thanks for the thread.

xUNGRAT3FULx
Posts: 84
Joined: Mon Feb 15, 2010 8:31 pm

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i know im bumping old thread :/.....buttt my question is if i jus read this and am gonna try it out tmrw but is it normal for there to be no pressure in the pedal at all when u replace the master and the slave i was gonna bleed but i was waiting for there to be some pressure before i started releasing the valve but pressure never built

IKGamex
Posts: 24
Joined: Wed Apr 29, 2009 10:39 am
Car: s13

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If anybody is having trouble bleeding, try bypassing the clutch damper system completely by bending the hardline from the reservoir to connect directly to the slave cylinder. I spent over 2 hours trying to bleed the system with no luck; once I removed that damper system I had everything bleed within 15 minutes.

w8lifter21
Posts: 151
Joined: Mon Dec 17, 2007 10:12 am
Car: '91 300zx TT, 99' Honda Accord

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Bump

What exactly does the damper system do and does bypassing it affect the operation of anything else? :confused:

240hatchsx
Posts: 183
Joined: Fri Jan 07, 2011 7:17 pm
Car: 93 s13 hatch

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Thanks for this I'm about to redo my engine and transmission. Also Ive read that you can use a z31 slave cylinder which is the same the aftermarket nimso slave cylinder ???

S133P3R
Posts: 4344
Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2008 4:02 pm
Car: 1989 S13 240sx
Location: South BRO.C. Ca
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w8lifter21 wrote:Bump

What exactly does the damper system do and does bypassing it affect the operation of anything else? :confused:
There are no electronics sensors of any type connected to it so it does not affect the ecu or engine operation. You can always reconnect it if you don't like it, the difference at the pedal from this is minimal. I replaced the master cylinder, hardline to stainless, removed the dampener and upgraded the slave to larger Z32 slave. It's pretty easy and most of the parts except a stainless steel master-slave line can be acquired at local parts stores. If you're replacing the clutch, replace the pivot ball and do the dampner removal. It'll save you pain later.

w8lifter21
Posts: 151
Joined: Mon Dec 17, 2007 10:12 am
Car: '91 300zx TT, 99' Honda Accord

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^Thanks for the info! I'm just doing a master/slave rebuild in about 12hrs from. Is :)

danshaz82
Posts: 9894
Joined: Mon Jun 04, 2007 12:08 pm

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S133P3R wrote: There are no electronics sensors of any type connected to it so it does not affect the ecu or engine operation. You can always reconnect it if you don't like it, the difference at the pedal from this is minimal. I replaced the master cylinder, hardline to stainless, removed the dampener and upgraded the slave to larger Z32 slave. It's pretty easy and most of the parts except a stainless steel master-slave line can be acquired at local parts stores. If you're replacing the clutch, replace the pivot ball and do the dampner removal. It'll save you pain later.
i just replaced mine last week and i wasnt sure if the Z32 slave fit or not haha. damn, if only you posted this last week :rotfl
but to the question, this is what the dampener box looks like
Image

S133P3R
Posts: 4344
Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2008 4:02 pm
Car: 1989 S13 240sx
Location: South BRO.C. Ca
Contact:

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240hatchsx wrote:Thanks for this I'm about to redo my engine and transmission. Also Ive read that you can use a z31 slave cylinder which is the same the aftermarket nimso slave cylinder ???
danshaz82 wrote: i just replaced mine last week and i wasnt sure if the Z32 slave fit or not haha. damn, if only you posted this last week :rotfl ]
I think the only difference in the slave units is the internal cylinder, which is stamped on the outside casting. The stock slave said 5/16 and the new "nismo z32" unit I ordered off of eBay said 3/4.


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