Clutch - Slave Cylinder Problem... loss of pressure
Clutch - Slave Cylinder Problem... loss of pressure
Ok, So Ive had my 240 for a few weeks now. Put on just 500 miles since Ive had it. Bought it with the seller saying the clutch was going to be replaced soon or some crap but it was fine. Problem was that sometimes the clutch pedal stuck to the floor (just had to use toe and pull it up) and this happened rarely.Anyways While leaving Best Buy MY clutch pedal just died... dead on the floor and no pressure whatsoever... after a little looking around and poking at things I saw the slave cylinder was leaking. Particularly when the clutch was pressed... so, no pressure. (Yes I checked the master and lines as well and no problems there. FLuid always topped off also.)Went out and bought a new SLave Cylinder and installed it. I bled the line and tried to rid it of air bubbles and filled the fluid as we went.Yet, after taking care of the faulty Slave and all... I have gained little pressure. We spent over an hour bleeding and trying to get things working again but It just will not gain pressure. Now... only things I can think is - The clutch position while installing the slave and Piston/Brass pin thing. Would It have to be depressed or left out? How far in should the pin go? I dont really know this and maybe its not the problem but its all i can think. I have talked to a few others and looked around online but i cant seem to find an answer.As far as i know I have covered all the common sense stuff.Any help would be greatly appreciated.
lucky i got a ride.there should be another bleeder for your clutch lines. its a dampner for clutch feel. if you ran your clutch master dry,by your description I am guessing you did, you will need to bleed it from there too. the 240 and 300 can be a bear to bleed due to their rediculas design. best way to do this is elevate the front of the car in an attempt to get the air to travel up to the bleeder. have a couple bottles of dot 3 handy and bleed first from the remote bleeder then from the slave. also hook a bungie cord under the clutch pedal hook the other end to the steering wheel. This will prevent the pedal stall during the bleeding process and keep it from drawing air back in the bleeder. when you bleed dont wait till all the fluid flow stops to close the valve. shut it off when the flow goes from full pressure to a water fall effect out of the nipple this will also prevent the stall that draws air back in.
OK. So as far as the bungie cord, do I need it hooked up to that the pedal is always going to be in released position? even while bleeding?When bleeding it Ive been sure to only open for a while long enough for exactly what you said to happen.A friend of mine says he has a air compressor tool that can be hooked up to draw air out of the line but Im prolly gonna try this first. And I believe I found the second bleed valve but im not sure...Following the line from the master Cylinder I see it runs into a rectangular box. Is the bleeder on that box? Cuz I see one there.Or would it be on the master Cylinder its self? I didnt really take a look on/around the master cylinder since we immediately spotted the leak off the slave.Ive been at work all day but Im gonna have at it again tonight.Good thing Im on Vacation all week.
OK! So I just got in and checked the master cylinder. there was prolly a drop of fluid on the bottom side but nothing major. May have been there from me spilling some, who knows. Anyways As I was waiting for the WD-40 to loosen a rusted somethingor other I fiddled with the pedal its self. I adjusted the 12mm nut and the bar about 1/4 - 1/2 in. It gave the pedal enough travel to gain pressure almost immediately. After 2-3 pumps I realised the pedal came out all the way on its own now. I pumped it for maybe 15-20 more times pausing in between every few. All seems normal and well now. I just have to drive it around to be sure. I cant thank you guys enough for your help. I really appreciate it. And Im glad I ended up fixing this on my own instead of taking it some place and not learning a damn thing. Thanks guys.
Yup I got it, I made sure of that. I took it for a spin around the neighborhood.Tho, I had another problem from earlier with shifting in and out of 4th... its just not smooth. Its not bad but It could be better. Its all getting replaced come spring. I think I can make it through winter but Im gonna have a look at it still.Thanks again.
same thing happened to my old celica supra. i ended up taking off the slave cylinder and taking it apart. inside, the cylinder bore and piston were all scratched and worn out looking, meaning no seal and loss of pressure. adjusting your pedal is a good temporary fix, but i would get a new slave cylinder or rebuild kit for the cylinder as soon as possible. it's an easy job too and the new slave cylinder shouldn't be too expensive.