Clutch replacement q's

[ganma_ca]

Ok so after tax returns I'm doing my clutch replacement and wondering what else I should buy while I have the transmission down. So I have an ACT 6 puck sprung, chromoly flywheel, arp bolts, t/o bearing, and what else should I replace????
Seals? Stainless line? some people say maybe fork/fork boot? Btw I may know the answer but want it confirmed how many teeth are supposed to be on a CA flywheel? Just want to make sure they didn't send me an SR one.....
Thanks all

[DALAZ_68]

id replace the pivot ball (where the spring connects to the clutch fork) they tend to wear out and snap on the original oem one especially with the extra beating it take with after market clutches...

either SPL or Nismo...i got my SPL and it fits like a glove

http://www.thenismoshop.com/Nismo-JDM-C ... _1132.html

that should work...

[float_6969]

This^ stock pivot ball is weaksauce. I've broken them on stock S13's with clutch drops. I've had a NISMO one for almost 10 years now, and it's had COUNTLESS clutch drops and it's still fine. I don't have experience with the SPL unit, but they're a reputable company.

[DALAZ_68]

This^ stock pivot ball is weaksauce. I've broken them on stock S13's with clutch drops. I've had a NISMO one for almost 10 years now, and it's had COUNTLESS clutch drops and it's still fine. I don't have experience with the SPL unit, but they're a reputable company.

if for what ever reason my SPL fails i have a Z32 trans and extra CA bell housing waiting to get worked on...and ill buy the Nismo pivot ball lol

[ganma_ca]

Oh man nice, well sounds like Nismo's the way to go. I mean I hardly ever clutch drop but it would be good to know if I ever dump it, that I have a pivot ball that can take a beating!!! Anyone have any idea's on breaking in the kevlar discs?
Standard 500 miles of regular driving? I've also heard the opposite do some clutch drops right after putting it in... But that sounds like the not right way to go about it lol...

[float_6969]

manufacturer will usually include a break in procedure with the clutch kit. If not, call them and they'll let you kno

[DALAZ_68]

i would just go ceramic, straight to dyno 0 issues...my problem no lies in not resurfacing the FW due to time constraint...lol

[ganma_ca]

Well the only downside is that I already have the clutch lol so there's no turning back. I heard it's similar to carbon, but if you torch the heck out of it(aka drift/drag every weekend for a period), the kevlar may glaze.... Which would not be good! We'll see I really don't beat on my CA a lot occasionally a trip to the track or some stop light launches but I don't auto x it or drift/drag it every weekend. My purpose was for getting something that built for higher then stock HP and for longevity like I better be able to put another 50k miles on before replacing it again.

[float_6969]

Here is my experience with break in procedure with SPEC. My friend and I both had a SPEC Stage III+. I (obviously) have a CA18DET, he has an S15 SR20DET. We were both making about the same power at the time (his was basically stock at the time with a FMIC, I was running the same turbo, but had the boost up to about 10psi). He's not the most patient person in the world, and after about a day, he had completely ignored the break-in procedure and was out beating on it. I followed the break-in procedure to the letter. When he went to start turning up the boost to make more power, he only made it to about 250-275rwhp and the clutch started to slip. He blamed it on the crappy SPEC clutch. Later, when I started to turn the boost up. I maxed out the S15 SR T28 turbo at 18psi, and was making close to 300rwhp and the clutch never batted an eye. And to this day, the clutch has STILL never slipped. Not once. I'm expecting it to start slipping with the new T4 turbo, but not until I've got the boost turned up a ways.

Moral of the story; Break-in procedure is a HUGE factor in determining the strength and longevity of the clutch.

[ganma_ca]

No doubt thanks for the heads up! I have heard similar stories, actually ironically someone here did the same thing. Put it in, next day went out beat the out of it and then said o spec is garbage because a week later his 240 was back in the shop. Isn't it like the standard 500 miles of stop n go n some highway driving? Well the ACT I bought has some paperwork with it and it does say to follow the proper break in procedure but there is no explanation of "what" exactly that entails. I just recall seeing something of the 500 miles posted somewhere...

[float_6969]

IIRC it was stop and go, no highway, no full throttle, low revs, for the first 500.

[ganma_ca]

About how long after the break in period would you think it would be safe to have a little fun with it? I mean no clutch drops lol, but maybe some spirited driving around some twistys and hitting some higher rpms? BTW Vs the stock clutch how much harsher is the engagement? Is it really as bad as people say it is? (Stock Vs 6 puck sprung still not a solid disk!)

[float_6969]

Not sure with the ACT. I have a SPEC.

[mbmbmb23]

If I'm not mistaken the "Nismo" pivot ball was proven to be an OEM Z part at one point (thus cheaper than one being marked with "Nismo"), I'm thinking it was one generation before the Z31.

Also while upgrading i would get a Nismo roller pilot bushing.

http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/yhst-1534229194 ... _186775153

Also, get the Z32TT clutch throw out bearing instead of the KA/SR bearing, the TT unit is bigger and beefier (and pricier tho).

[float_6969]

Oohh, I like that NISMO roller bearing. I was just thinking about something like that the other day!

[ganma_ca]

I had just begun to wonder the same thing about the nismo pivot. Well and even at that there is a Circuit Sports version for 21$ VS $56 and the circuitsports is actually a bit larger so possibly more durable. I think the difference between all of them weather it be the Z31/Circuitsports/ect is the type of material the nismo unit is made out of VS carbon steel it's made out of some type of chromoly/molybdenum... So which is better?????

[float_6969]

They're probably all better than stock and will be fine, so go for the cheaper one. When I bought mine almost 10 years ago, there weren't any other options besides the NISMO one.

[ganma_ca]

Cool:) Yeah I kinda figured as much, I think I will still go with the nismo though. Keep it in tune with the nismo parts I have on the car already. Heck if anything it makes it easier for me to remember lol. Also since I have a comparison, well after all you having one in there for so long after having plenty of fun with it over the years, makes it an obvious choice. I'd rather buy something I know for a fact is true, then take a gamble on a part no one has tried.