Clutch Problems w/ '96 200sx se anyhelp?

[PhilisophicalProphet]

Well I think I ground my clutch plate but I'm not sure. This is my first stick shift and I pretty much taught myself to drive it(not very smart I knoe) the old owner told me what i needed to knoe and my cousin and my brother gave me some tips, well i only ground the gears once and I only jerked a little for about a week, and it was only about twice a day, say driving for an hour each day. Now I give my brother a bunch of rides and he doesnt notice me doing anything wrong but im not even sure if he really knoes how to drive stick.

Anyways a few daes ago my clutch wasn't working the same. When I shift I use to be able to move into the slots real easy and smooth, now it's like somethings in the way and I have to move around stuff to get into the gears. I can't go in smooth straight lines to shift, i have to manuveur around something and then sometimes I have to shake my shift knob a little to get into gear. I stopped driving it pretty much, i drove it about 10 miles since. I think maybe I wasn't leveling my clutch and my gas right and tell me if im right or not, but wont that grind your clutch plate? jus referring to what i read about the clutch plate and pressure plate and the engine bar. it didnt say anything about leveling the clutch but i'm assuming thats how it wears down. My shifter is an H set or pattern or w/e its called if thats any help. I lifted the skirt to the shift knob but you cant see anything in it. Its a new shift knob too if that matters. the guy that owned the car b4 me replaced the stock one with a new colored one.

I dont knoe if i'm right but can someone assist me? What might be wrong with the car and wether i have things straight on what i thought. I need help ASAP cuz i need to drive to work and need it fixed. Thanks so much to anyone that can help.~ONE~The Prophet of Philosophy
Modified by PhilisophicalProphet at 6:21 AM 7/8/2006

[NISTECH]

You need to check your shift linkage under the car you mave have a worn bushing. By your description it doesnt sound like a clutch issue as much as a linkage issue.

[rogoman]

Two things to check:1 - Clutch pedal free play.It should be 1.0 - 3.0 mm (0.039 - 0.118 in). Hold a ruler against the floor and up to the top of the pedal pad. Take a reading on the ruler at the pedal pad in the resting position. Now push on the pedal pad very gently until resistance is felt; at this point take the new reading on the ruler. Subtracting the two readings will give you the free play spec. To adjust the clutch pedal free play, adjust the pushrod for the clutch master cylinder which is located under the dash at the top of the pedal assembly. The pushrod has a locknut which must be loosened. Now the pushrod can be adjusted. If there's too much play, the clutch may not fully disengage when you press the pedal to the floor which then makes it difficult to shift the transmission.

2 - Next thing to check are the clutch hydraulics. Make sure that you're not low on fluid. Bleed the system of air if needed.

Here's how to bleed the system:Bleed only one unit at a time; do the clutch slave cylinder first then dothe piping connector. Get someone to operate the clutch pedal while you dothe bleeding.

1 - Have someone pump the pedal several times then hold the pedal down.2 - With the pedal depressed, open the bleeder valve to release air.3 - Close bleeder valve; now the other person can release the pedal.

You may have to repeat steps 1 thru 3 several times to purge all the air.Repeat steps 1 thru 3 for the piping connector.While you're doing the bleeding, make sure to keep the reservoir full.

[PhilisophicalProphet]

He said sumthin about shift links, whats he talkin about. and I juss checked my free play and I'm pretty sure that's fine, I didnt have a ruler but i used a tape measurer, I think theres about 1mm of free play. about the clutch hydraulics:will transimssion fluid cause a problem like this?i have no idea where to find the clutch slave cylinder and the piping connector, and when i do find them and open the valves is it goin to be sumthing complicated to just open or just a twist and turn to open then close, and about the resevoir, how do I keep an eye on that to make sure it's full. (if i ask dumb questions try n put up with it, i'm 16 but learnin as much as i can. love cars, learnin to take care of them) thanks.

[rogoman]

will transimssion fluid cause a problem like this?i have no idea where to find the clutch slave cylinder and the piping connector, and when i do find them and open the valves is it goin to be sumthing complicated to just open or just a twist and turn to open then close, and about the resevoir, how do I keep an eye on that to make sure it's full.

First of all, brake fluid is used in the clutch hydraulic system, not ATF.

You need to jack up the front of the car to get to the slave cyl and piping connector. The slave cyl is mounted on the right side of the bellhousing and the piping connector is mounted on the body close to the slave cyl.

Nothing complicated about the bleeder screw; crack open and if steady stream of fluid, close the screw.

Each time you open/close bleeder screw, get up and check the fluid level in the reservoir; simple enough.

[NISTECH]

rogoman he has a sentra/200sx. its front wheel drive. the slave is on the front of the trans, no dampner tubes , straight shot from master to slave.

[PhilisophicalProphet]

alright, also, my car doesnt use transmission fluid. Thanks for that.

[rogoman]

rogoman he has a sentra/200sx. its front wheel drive. the slave is on the front of the trans, no dampner tubes , straight shot from master to slave.

Thanks for the info.