Clutch problems

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
User avatar
Project240
Posts: 773
Joined: Fri Mar 21, 2003 5:42 pm

Post

We're having problems bleeding the clutch in my RB20 S13. No matter how many times we put the clutch down to the floor, pull it up, put it down, pull it up, fill the reservoir, etc etc, we just can't get it to come back up off the floor by itself; there's no pressure. It goes down with ease, to a point; when it's almost to the floor, it stops, and then has pressure for, like, the last inch before it hits the floor. Apparently the slave cylinder isn't reaching the clutch fork until it's almost completely extended.

Has anyone else had this problem? Sounds like either we assembled the clutch fork wrong (I REALLY don't want to have to drop the trans to fix something like that :mad: ), or my release cylinder is bad or mismounted or something. Input???


Joe
Posts: 6511
Joined: Sun Feb 09, 2003 8:29 pm
Location: Phoenix, AZ

Post

you need to adjust the pedal.

User avatar
Project240
Posts: 773
Joined: Fri Mar 21, 2003 5:42 pm

Post

Really? Is it really that simple?!!

.....That would be nice :)

User avatar
NISMO_RB25
Posts: 1066
Joined: Thu Nov 06, 2003 4:40 am
Car: 1992 240SX with RB25DET, 1987 RX-7 TII

Post

did you try using a vacuum pump? Best $30 I ever spent, because I can bleed all the lines without any help. Mine barely worked as well, but it wasn't as bad as yours.

FAST-DATSUN
Posts: 1019
Joined: Tue Oct 22, 2002 9:46 am
Contact:

Post

take the stock dampner unit under the car out and route the line direct to the slave cylinder....

biggadubuti
Posts: 33
Joined: Tue May 20, 2003 11:09 am

Post

first bleed the clutch master. lift the pedal, open the line on the CM, push the pedal down, then tighten the screw. keep doing that till you get all the air out of the master, then go down to the little block, on the chassis, bleed that normally, just like the brakes, then the slave. we did it on my 25, took a while, but not that hard, just need 2 people.

goofynick6
Posts: 1216
Joined: Thu Feb 05, 2004 9:58 am
Car: 1995 S14.5 RB20DET

Post

Sounds like a pedal problem...and sometimes, certain clutches will require readjustment of the slave-rod length, but I doubt that is the case.

Nick

User avatar
Project240
Posts: 773
Joined: Fri Mar 21, 2003 5:42 pm

Post

Well we got the pedal adjusted, the clutch goes down and comes back up normally now, I can pull it in and out of gear while the car's running; essentially, the clutch WORKS. But, it has the absolute most $HITTY feel ever. It's incredibly spongy and soft, it goes about halfway down to the floor just with my foot resting on it.

Think maybe my slave cylinder needs replacing?? Or should we try bleeding the clutch again??....

edit: and while I'm on the subject, does Nismo make a slave cylinder for the RB20? I see an S13/S14 Nismo slave cylinder on http://www.phase2motortrend.com ....

User avatar
Porschephile
Posts: 177
Joined: Thu Aug 14, 2003 8:38 am
Car: '98 Maxima
Location: Austin, TX
Contact:

Post

Remove the stock clutch damper. I did this in my brother's CA s13 and it feels so much better! It is more precise, direct, firm and does not have any of the "sponginess" like stock.

goofynick6
Posts: 1216
Joined: Thu Feb 05, 2004 9:58 am
Car: 1995 S14.5 RB20DET

Post

A new slave cylinder would probably help, but sounds like it could use more adjustment. The nismo unit is super pricey and you probably don't require it.

Nick

User avatar
wga240
Posts: 244
Joined: Wed Mar 12, 2003 7:40 am
Car: 90 Hatch w/ RB20
Contact:

Post

I'd definitely take out that clutch dampener box and loop. It's easy to do as long as you're careful when bending your hard line around. Also you may want to consider going to Autozone or someplace and getting a master cylinder rebuild kit. It's pretty cheap ($10.99 from Autozone) and is good long-term insurance.

I'd recommend removing the dampener block and loop first and re-bleeding, then see how the pedal feels. If it still doesn't feel like it's making the correct pressure then try rebuilding the master cylinder.

If you do remove the dampener, be gentle when bending the main clutch hard line around to mate up with the rubber line going to the slave cylinder. Bend it slowly with your hands or a small hand-held bender, and make sure you don't crimp it shut.


Return to “RB20DET / RB25DET / RB26DETT Forum”