So on my way home last night, my clutch pedal just kind of took a dump on me. That is, it's now even with the dead pedal, with a very short pedal travel. The car won't go into gear from a stop when it's on. It shifts fine, however. So the only way I can get the car to go anywhere is to put it in first while it's off, then start it.
So my question is, do you think this is a straight up clutch problem, or could it be the slave / master cylinder? Is there any way to diagnose it myself? I checked the reservoir and it's full, so I know it's not a leaking fluid issue. If it is the clutch, what do you guys recommend I buy? This is a daily driver that will see some occasional track use, so I don't want to get anything overkill, but I do want something better than OEM. I'm looking at the Centerforce clutches.
Clutch problems :(
Re: (180fan)
No, I haven't gotten under the car yet. Should I just check for leaks at the slave cylinder or what? I think I'll probably bleed the system tonight and remove the clutch dampener while I'm at it.
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contranication
- Posts: 12
- Joined: Sat Sep 25, 2004 9:53 pm
- Car: 95 240sx
Re: (Alteus)
when you take out the clutch dampener be careful not to kink the line!... then after you bleed everything check the distance your slave moves while someone else is pressing the clutch. Don't forget to play with your master cylinder rod too.
Re: (contranication)
my pedal did the same thing i just ended up replacing the master and slvae and now its stiffer than ever:D the sainless lines dont hurt either
Re: (contranication)
How do you play with the Master Cylinder Rod?contranication wrote:when you take out the clutch dampener be careful not to kink the line!... then after you bleed everything check the distance your slave moves while someone else is pressing the clutch. Don't forget to play with your master cylinder rod too.
I have a problem where my clutch pedal is engaging at the very slightest touch of the pedal but the pedal will still go all the way down to the floor.. So my question is this: Is their a way to adjust where the pedal engages the clutch and if there is how do you do it?
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2.4Loflove
- Posts: 432
- Joined: Tue Nov 21, 2006 8:12 pm
- Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX SE
- Location: Statesboro, GA
Re: (-RENO-)
Even after you replace all that stuff- master cylinder, slave, etc. it still sounds like your actual clutch is shot... the SPEC stage 1 caught my eye bc my clutch is on its last leg in my S13.
josh
josh
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Silverbullet
- Posts: 26
- Joined: Mon Jun 28, 2004 7:41 pm
Re: (2.4Loflove)
always check the hydrolics first. Its the easiest to diagnose and replace.
I am having same problem, however i knew my master cyl and slave cyl where new OEM and bought a few months ago, however i checked them anyways and rebled them. To confirm the hydrolics are working, i put a camera under my transmission and pushed the clutch pedal.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DJ1asOBNrvEas you can see, the rod moves fully but the clutch still does not disengage. Thats ususally means theres a problem inside the bell housing (im guessing pressure plate) ... i bought a new Spec Stage III clutch to replace everything with inside... its goin in this weekend so lets hope thats my problem!
I am having same problem, however i knew my master cyl and slave cyl where new OEM and bought a few months ago, however i checked them anyways and rebled them. To confirm the hydrolics are working, i put a camera under my transmission and pushed the clutch pedal.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DJ1asOBNrvEas you can see, the rod moves fully but the clutch still does not disengage. Thats ususally means theres a problem inside the bell housing (im guessing pressure plate) ... i bought a new Spec Stage III clutch to replace everything with inside... its goin in this weekend so lets hope thats my problem!