I'm having issues with my clutch again. I just had the clutch replaced (clutch kit with pressure plate, clutch disk, pilot bushing, throwout bearing), along with the slave cylinder. System seems to be bled pretty well, cause I tried bleeding and I didn't see any air bubbles. When the car first starts up, it shifts without any issue, doesn't seem to slip. Once the car warms up, then the problem begins.
Once it's warmed up, say after 15-20 minutes of driving, when I push the clutch pedal all the way down, it will not shift, and will grind if I try to force it. If I kill it, put it in 1st gear, clutch all the way in, and start the car, it will roll forward, as if i have the clutch partially disengaged and slipping. After futzing around with it a bit, I noticed that if I have the clutch slightly off the floor say about 3/4s to 7/8s ways down, I can shift, with no issues. If I shift to 1st by doing that, then press the clutch all the way down, the engine rpms drop a bit and the car creeps, just as if I was slipping it.
So any one have any ideas? It just doesnt make any sense to me why it would go to partial engagement when pushed all the way down.
Also, when it comes to clutch adjustment, there's freeplay, there's the pushrod threading into the clevis pin, and there's the pedal stopper bolt at the top. I've only been able to see how to do the pushrod and the pedal stopper bolt, but I can't figure out how to do adjust for freeplay. Can someone explain what each of those adjustments are for?
Thanks In Advance.
Clutch Problems Part Deux (II)
-
spec-u-later
- Posts: 1002
- Joined: Wed May 07, 2003 4:47 pm
- Car: Yaris...FML
- Location: Cincinnati OH
Yeah mess with that pedal. I've been working on mine as well. You can get rid of teh freeplay but you don't want to. If its totally stiff that means it's grabing to late and it will slip because its not fully engaged. If it grabs all the way at the bottom (which is what mine is doing and I think yours is too) it keeps you from being able to shift because it will not release. You need to find a happy medium. You just have to mess with it. Do I while the car is cold and when it gets warm. Good Luck
-
bumpermatic
- Posts: 42
- Joined: Wed Sep 17, 2003 2:54 pm
Well, what I don't understand in this situation is this:
for me...clutch pedal all the way out, at top of travel: can't shift, no slipclutch pedal half way in, at middle of travel: can't shift, is slippingclutch pedal 3/4th way in, near bottom of travel: can shift great!clutch pedal all the way in, to the floor: can't shift, is slipping
It doesn't make sense why it reverts its behavior between almost down to completely down. If I understand the hydraulic system correctly, as the clutch pedal goes down, the slave cylinder piston goes out and pushes on the fork. In this case it's like it pushes on the fork gradually till 3/4th way down, then kinda of slinks back as the pedal achieves full travel.
for me...clutch pedal all the way out, at top of travel: can't shift, no slipclutch pedal half way in, at middle of travel: can't shift, is slippingclutch pedal 3/4th way in, near bottom of travel: can shift great!clutch pedal all the way in, to the floor: can't shift, is slipping
It doesn't make sense why it reverts its behavior between almost down to completely down. If I understand the hydraulic system correctly, as the clutch pedal goes down, the slave cylinder piston goes out and pushes on the fork. In this case it's like it pushes on the fork gradually till 3/4th way down, then kinda of slinks back as the pedal achieves full travel.
-
spec-u-later
- Posts: 1002
- Joined: Wed May 07, 2003 4:47 pm
- Car: Yaris...FML
- Location: Cincinnati OH
1st thing you should do is take out the dampener if you havn't already. This will make it much easier to bleed the system completely. Next get under the dash and check if the pedal is adjusted correctly. You want want 1-3mm of travel at the pedal itself (this includes clevis pin play) before the pushrod hits the piston assembly
-
bumpermatic
- Posts: 42
- Joined: Wed Sep 17, 2003 2:54 pm
cstang68 wrote:1st thing you should do is take out the dampener if you havn't already. This will make it much easier to bleed the system completely. Next get under the dash and check if the pedal is adjusted correctly. You want want 1-3mm of travel at the pedal itself (this includes clevis pin play) before the pushrod hits the piston assembly
I'm assuming freeplay adjustment = adjusting the amount the pushrod threads into or out of the U-shaped clamp thing that hooks into the pedal via the clevis pin?
Any ideas on why this would cause the behavior listed above? I.E. full disengagement at 7/8th travel and partial engagement at full travel?
I'll check on the piston slipping off the fork, gotta find someone to hold the clutch down while i go take a look.
The partial engagement at full travel could be due to blowby in the MC. This could be caused by either bad seal in the MC ($11 rebuid kit from your local autoparts place will fix this) or the pushrod is adjusted too far in causing the fluid to blowby the seal. While you're under the car look at the rubber hose going into the slave cyl, look for cracks.