Clutch problem.

Post by **RobDET** » Tue Mar 23, 2004 10:45 am

Well I was at a light on the way back from work today when i experenced technical difficulties with my ride.

The past few days my transmission has been shifting harder and harder. I decided i'de change the oil and clutch fluid. I've rebuilt my master and slave cylinders less than 2 months ago and my clutch is about 8000 miles old if that.

Well after the change it was VERY hard to blead the clutch but I finally got it working and it was shifting nicely for about a day. Then today at lunch i decided i'de adjust the pedal down just a little becuase i had adjusted it almost all the way up when i changed the fluid. I did it right adjusting pedal height AND the rod tension. Then I bled the clutch a little and everything seemed ok for about the first 500 ft. then i started hearing what sounded like the clutch sliding on the flywheel. Then i stopped shut the car off and looked at the clutch fork. Everything looked in order. I started the car and everything was fine for about another 500 ft. Then the pedal got very soft but the clurch was still engaging with the same "feel" as before. Then i pushed the pedal down to leave that light and it didn't come back up.

I was able to build a little pressure when i pumped the clutch frantically by hand enought to get it into gear once. Then it was finished. Now there is no resistance in the pedal at all (other than the spring). I havn't gotten someone to pump it to see if the slave is moving at all. I'll do that after work.

My thought is that my slave cylinder is frozen OR that the check valve in the piston in the master cylinder is now a 2 way street. I just bought a new master and slave cylinder and ordered the NISMO clutch line. Hopefully i'll get everything working again. I'm worried about those wierd clurch noises i heard though. (only that once the first time. Not when the clutch pedal finally gave in alltogather)

Post by **NISTECH** » Tue Mar 23, 2004 10:45 am

it definitly sounds like air in the system. Look closely for a fluid leak. If there isnt one I believe you are right about the master being the problem.

Post by **RobDET** » Tue Mar 23, 2004 10:45 am

Holy brake Damper batman!

Turns out I just needed to spend about 4 hours bleeding the break system. After a new master and slave cylinders i still couldn't get it to work so i went to the autoparts store and got 15 feet of vacuum line (I wanted to get clear silicone hose from the hardware store but they were closed), Anyway i got the vacuum line. Then i put teflon tape on the threads of the bleeder screw so no air could get in through the threads.

I ran the Vacuum line from the damper box all the way through the engine bay on the intake side, over the motor and to the clutch master cylinder. I pumped the fluid through with the clutch untill it was comming out the vacuum line into the cylinder, Then i got in the car and pumped the clutch by hand for almost 15 minutes.

I then repeated this process with the slave cylinder. Once i had done both the clutch had full pressure and i didn't even need to bleed it the old fashoned way.

Post by **SHIFTrl240** » Tue Mar 23, 2004 10:45 am

why not just take the damper block out? woulda saved you quite a bit of time

http://www.zeroyon.com/pics/in....html

Post by **C-Kwik** » Tue Mar 23, 2004 10:45 am

The damper actually does something. When I had my S13, I took mine out. I could feel the engine vibration in the clutch pedal as I shifted. And there was more vibration when I pressed the pedal down at higher RPM's. If you don't care about that, then it's no big deal.

Post by **RobDET** » Tue Mar 23, 2004 10:45 am

I'm not a big fan of having hard line go to my transmission. It moves quite a bit. I ordered the Stainless Steel line from NISMO (got if from ENJUKU who were excellent as always) The line eliminates the damper.

Problem is it came in yesterday (monday) I needed the car for the weekend so i won't be installing the line till friday night cause of work and college.

Post by **SHIFTrl240** » Tue Mar 23, 2004 10:45 am

you don't even need that line, *eliminating the damper* all that means is that its slightly longer just so that you don't have to bend the hardline. k2rd sells a stainless line for like 25 bucks if you still want the stainless.

you can eliminate the hardline for free, as in that link shows, a line that is for eliminating the damper line is just tricking people into buying it imo.

the hardline should never go directly into the slave cyl. theres always a flexible line, whether it be the stock rubber one or a stainless steel.

Post by **RobDET** » Tue Mar 23, 2004 10:45 am

The link shows a hard line giong directly to the slave. The soft rubber line isn't as ridgid as braided stainless. The nismo peice from Enjuku had all the fittings and an extra bleader with it.

Post by **SHIFTrl240** » Tue Mar 23, 2004 10:45 am

the picture shows in red the hardline, blue the damper block, and green the rubber line to the slave. i don't see where the hardline goes directly to the slave.

you do not need the nismo line to perform this mod. buying the k2rd line and bending the hard line like shown in the picture is cheaper and yields the same effect, because essentially it is the same thing, except the nismo line is longer.

Post by **RobDET** » Tue Mar 23, 2004 10:45 am

I see it now. It looked like they have the hard line running to the transmission. Doesn't the rubber line connect to the damper box? How do you connect the rubber line to the fitting? I guess the hard line connection to the damper box isn't a flare fitting?

I already got the NISMO one in and i'll be installing it this evening or tomorrow morning so i'll let you guys know how it went.

Post by **JONBOYRACING** » Tue Mar 23, 2004 10:45 am

i see the same thing all the time.. and i just take out the damper box

Clutch problem.

Clutch problem.

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