Clutch pedal stays down

A home for 1983–1989 300ZX owners!
86300zx1owner
Posts: 5
Joined: Tue Jul 05, 2016 11:18 pm
Car: 1986 300zx Z31 2+2

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Hello everyone. New to this forum. I bought my 300 ZX z31 2+2 new in 1986. I used it as my daily driver for about 8 years and then Sparingly for 12 more and then left it sitting in my garage for 10 years not being started. A couple days ago I drained the gas and put new gas into the tank. I also replaced the battery. Luckily it started right up, but it does run a little rough. The brake lights stay on and am waiting for some rubber stoppers for the brake pedal that I ordered, which hopefully will fix the problem. The major issue I have now is that the clutch has no pressure and when pushed down it just stays down. I can easily push and lift it with my hand. I can also put it into all gears easily, but I have not tried putting it into 1st while running fearing I might damage something. Thanks in advance.


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evildky
Posts: 14225
Joined: Sat Jan 31, 2004 9:23 pm
Car: 71 Datsun 240ZT
87 Nissan 300ZX N/A-T
06 Nissan 350Z GT
Toyota Tundra TRD RW
Location: Louisville, KY
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Sounds like you need a new master and slave. They are fairly cheap and pretty simple to install, the bleeding process is the most time consuming part. and 86 I believe had the clutch damper inline as well, so you will have to bleed it there as well.

Not a bad idea to flush and bleed the brake hydraulics as well after such a long slumber.

86300zx1owner
Posts: 5
Joined: Tue Jul 05, 2016 11:18 pm
Car: 1986 300zx Z31 2+2

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Thank you for the advice. I have a Haynes manual for the car and I think I may be able to make these fixes and bleed the system. Actually I just found something in troubleshooting in The Haynes book about this problem and it says this could be the problem: 1. Bind in linkage or release bearing. Inspect linkage clutch components as necessary or 2. Linkage Springs being over extended. Adjust linkage for proper free play. Make sure proper pedal stop (bumper) is installed. If this is the case it's much more than I can handle so I am wondering if it's still worth me replacing the master and operating cylinders since these components may actually still be in working order? What do you think? Thanks again.

Jessica1984
Posts: 5
Joined: Wed Jul 06, 2016 8:15 pm
Car: 240sx

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OMG to the bleeding process! haha

Did this years ago on a project

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evildky
Posts: 14225
Joined: Sat Jan 31, 2004 9:23 pm
Car: 71 Datsun 240ZT
87 Nissan 300ZX N/A-T
06 Nissan 350Z GT
Toyota Tundra TRD RW
Location: Louisville, KY
Contact:

Post

The master and slave are common points of failure, they have rubber seals that deteriorate, especially after sitting for years on end.

86300zx1owner
Posts: 5
Joined: Tue Jul 05, 2016 11:18 pm
Car: 1986 300zx Z31 2+2

Post

Thanks for the advice. I finally had a chance to do this and changing the clutch master and slave worked perfectly. Bleeding was not difficult except for the clogged bleeder valve on the damper when I figured it was clogged (I left the old damper in). I used the good bleeder from the old slave on the damper and it worked. Thanks again.


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