Clutch pedal problem

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SharpieUTurn
Posts: 2
Joined: Mon Jul 21, 2008 12:59 am
Car: 1991 Nissan 240SX

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Hey guys, I am a not-so-happy new owner of a 240sx which I purchased about a week ago. I've got a problem with my '91 240SX Hatchback. So far, the only mod I can think of that is related to this problem is probably my racing clutch. The car has a SR20DET.

Right now, this is how my car's pedals look like. It is dropped to the bottom without my foot pressed on the clutch:



I searched the forum for that problem, and I found out that the problem is I need to bleed the fluid out and fill up fresh and bleed again, so I went ahead and did that, only to find out that the clutch pedal is still dropping all the way down. I'm guessing I need a new slave cylinder and master clutch cylinder as well. So I will do that tomorrow.

Also, another problem; I believe this is another problem, not related to the clutch cylinders. But please correct me if I am wrong.

All I know is the car was converted from Auto--->5 Speed by the previous owner. 2 days after I bought the car from him, this happened.



What is causing my clutch pedal to move behind the brake pedal like that? Is there a fix for this one?

Help would definitely be appreciated by those who have experienced this kind of problem. Thanks in advance guys, I will stay posted to this forum to answer any of you guys.

(sorry if any confusion rises, but both pictures were taken by me, and they are the same car. i know they look different, but that is because the first picture was taken by my dslr and the second picture was taken by my cell phone camera. just wanted to clear that in case anyone thought they are two different cars, no... they are the same car.)


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Hijacker
Posts: 14373
Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 4:57 am
Car: '92 240sx Convertible
'94 F-150
Location: Fredericksburg, VA

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The clutch pedal needs to be adjusted. There's an arm connecting the pedal to the master cylinder. You can adjust that arm to move the pedal around.

Make sure that all the bolts (including the one holding the top of the of the pedal bracket to the car) are tight.

Cone Junky
Posts: 622
Joined: Sun Jan 20, 2008 8:06 am
Car: S13 fastback
BMW e46 328i
Location: San Diego

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I've never done a manual swap on a 240, but the other ones I've done required the replacement of the entire pedal assembly.That looks like they just added the clutch pedal and cut the large brake pedal from the auto.There's probably a reason why it was adjusted all the way down... to clear the brake pedal. Looks dangerous to me. I would track down a complete manual pedal assembly and go from there.

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Hijacker
Posts: 14373
Joined: Wed Aug 13, 2003 4:57 am
Car: '92 240sx Convertible
'94 F-150
Location: Fredericksburg, VA

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The only difference between the manual and auto brake pedals are the size of the footpad. The angle of the armature's the same IIRC. I've seen many successful 5 speed swaps use cut auto brake pedals

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srpowered240sx
Posts: 12661
Joined: Wed Jun 29, 2005 1:17 pm
Car: 90 240sx-sr, 92 F-150, 00 bmw 323ci, 1991 s13 coupe, 99 F250 Dsl

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Hijacker wrote:The only difference between the manual and auto brake pedals are the size of the footpad. The angle of the armature's the same IIRC. I've seen many successful 5 speed swaps use cut auto brake pedals
word, mines cut and it works fine. the angle is a hair different, but it places the pedal just a bit closer to the gas, good for heel/toe. its cleaner if you use a pad for a manual pedal or a clutch, like i did. i would check all the bolts/studs holding the pedal assembly in. if you bled it well, then the master and or slave would be your next steps. heres a cut brake pedal for you doubters....


slow40
Posts: 548
Joined: Fri Feb 16, 2007 9:58 am
Car: S13

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my car does the same thing. I believe I have a leaking master cylinder, but that is due to if I place very light pressure on my pedal, it will go all the way to the floor. I also have a auto brake pedal, had it cut a few months after buying the car. The clutch pedal assembly has a spring on it to help hold the pedal up at the right position, so like another niconaut said, if your cylinder/pedal connection isn't correct, then this will affect it. I believe there is supposed to be a half inch of play before the pedal is engaged from full extension.

SharpieUTurn
Posts: 2
Joined: Mon Jul 21, 2008 12:59 am
Car: 1991 Nissan 240SX

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okay... so today I replaced the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder to brand new ones and bled the slave cylinder. Now, the clutch doesn't drop to the bottom any more, but i still can't get into any gears! also, the clutch is still leaning to the side (behind the brake pedal) even though I checked all the bolts. or maybe i'm not checking in the correct place? can anyone guide me to which bolt is the adjusting bolt? this is tough stuff for me and it's hard having a non-running daily driver and not knowing what to do.
Modified by SharpieUTurn at 4:43 AM 7/22/2008

scottydog
Posts: 261
Joined: Sun Aug 12, 2007 3:22 am
Car: 1992 240sx

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The leaning pedal is due to some sort of mounting issue in the pedal.

Inability to get into gear means the clutch is not engaging fully. Either adjust the clutch pedal, air in the line, or less likely a defective dampener box.


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