clutch pedal play?

[Absolomb]

Hey all starting with this. I'm new to cars, new to Z's and new to manual transmissions.

Now, when I bought me car there was always an area of clutch pedal maybe about 2 inches in length where my pedal was noticeably softer until gaining real pressure the rest of the way down. Today I tackled bleeding my clutch system to get new fluid running through, thinking this would be the fix for the problem. After getting lots of gunk out of the lines from the master cylinder, and getting sprayed in the face twice from bleeding the slave, I have two things to take away. I now have MORE soft pedal, and the clutch engages about that same amount lower. So just for an example, I have maybe 2 inches more soft pedal and my clutch engages 2 inches sooner than it did before. Now I'm not sure what to do. I actually like the bite point being closer to the floor, but shouldnt the pedal have the same stiffness the moment i press on it to the floor?

[amc49]

Not necessarily, depends on the type of pressure plate in there. Some diaphragm types slowly move the fingers at first with not much force needed until they get to the over center point then the force required goes way up and normal.

Sounds like to me though you got more air in than out with your bleeding effort and common.

[DCaff300ZX]

There are two bleeding points for the clutch cylinder, check the fsm for the locations...as mentioned you just added more air if you didn't bleed both points. There are also upgraded lines with only 1 bleed point as well that can be purchased at our better vendors such as Z1 and CZP, etc.

[Absolomb]

There are two bleeding points for the clutch cylinder, check the fsm for the locations...as mentioned you just added more air if you didn't bleed both points. There are also upgraded lines with only 1 bleed point as well that can be purchased at our better vendors such as Z1 and CZP, etc.

2 bleed points for the clutch slave or clutch master?

[DCaff300ZX]

Clutch slave. There's one bleed close to it, and another on the ps fender IIRC, maybe firewall...fsm will give locations.

[Absolomb]

Clutch slave. There's one bleed close to it, and another on the ps fender IIRC, maybe firewall...fsm will give locations.

Regarding bleeding the system it says theres a bleeder on the slave itself and a bleeder above the passenger fender. I bled both.

[Ace2cool]

The bleed process is a PITA and due to a design flaw, usually doesn't end up expelling all air from the system. The one piece braided line makes the bleed process much more straightforward.

[Absolomb]

The bleed process is a PITA and due to a design flaw, usually doesn't end up expelling all air from the system. The one piece braided line makes the bleed process much more straightforward.

Hey Ace, you think I should have a mechanic try to do the bleed for me? It is a huge PITA..right now my clutch pedal is sticking right after disengagement, meaning, the pedal comes up to the point of disengagement, gets stuck for a second or two and then produces a noticeable click or pop that seems to be coming from inside my clutch booster. The longer the pedal is held down the longer it seems to take to unstick itself. I feel like I may have broken a spring or something from pumping the clutch so much. It seems like something metal is getting caught inside the clutch booster but the pressure from the pedal wanting to rise overcomes it but it takes a second or two. Id rather the clutch master be bad since its like less than $100 to replace, new clutch boosters are $500...yikes.. Not sure what to do here, and just wanna drive my car

[NolimitZ32]

if its the clutch booster (sounds like it to me) remove the clutch booster and replace with a NA master cylinder.

[Absolomb]

if its the clutch booster (sounds like it to me) remove the clutch booster and replace with a NA master cylinder.

Are there any downsides to this? Will the NA one bolt right to the TT pedal? Some sources say get a NA pedal others say its fine. Is there a write up on deleting? Im assuming I can get rid of some hosing in the engine bay if Im removing the booster

[NolimitZ32]

No clue, never done it, I would imagine that they should be the same (pedals that is), downside is you'll have no assist when pushing the clutch, I've never driven a Z32 with the TT clutch assist but I have absolutely no problem driving my swapped car with an SS Street clutch (700lbft TQ capable IIRC).

[Ace2cool]

A lot of people prefer no assist.

[Absolomb]

A lot of people prefer no assist.

So I just started the car cause its been sitting in the cold for a while. Its running right now, I forgot to mention I've got a noticeable hiss that sounds like its coming from the clutch booster I'm gonna get a video up. My clutch feels awful the cars definitely not going anywhere so I've got to do this myself. I'm thinking I'm gonna get a new NA master and a new clutch slave, replace them both and install a one piece stainless clutch line. Ace do you know if when I get the clutch booster out does the NA clutch master bolt right up to the pedal painlessly? I'm assuming I need to then plug some spots for the boosters vacuum line

[NolimitZ32]

If you hear a hiss with the car running without touching the pedal it's a vacuum leak, likely at the diaphragm in the booster. You don't really need to replace the slave or the line (the line may be more trouble than it's worth).

[Absolomb]

If you hear a hiss with the car running without touching the pedal it's a vacuum leak, likely at the diaphragm in the booster. You don't really need to replace the slave or the line (the line may be more trouble than it's worth).

So would I need to replace the clutch master with a NA or can I just plug the vacuum hoses from the booster and go on my way?

[Ace2cool]

The clutch booster is almost definitely bad. And it's not crucial to replace the line, but as I said, it makes the bleeding process more straightforward, as it eliminates the confounded fender bleed point. As far as the pedal, I'm fairly certain the clutch pedals are the same. I'll be finding out soon, lol as I'm swapping a clutch pedal into mine.

And once you remove the booster, you just cap the line.

[Absolomb]

The clutch booster is almost definitely bad. And it's not crucial to replace the line, but as I said, it makes the bleeding process more straightforward, as it eliminates the confounded fender bleed point. As far as the pedal, I'm fairly certain the clutch pedals are the same. I'll be finding out soon, lol as I'm swapping a clutch pedal into mine.

And once you remove the booster, you just cap the line.

I found some threads saying people are just disconnecting the booster vacuum hose from the plenum and plugging it, disabling the booster but not phsyically taking it off and replacing the clutch master with an NA one. Honestly seems like the easiest solution, though I will probably do the one piece line as well just for the ease of bleeding like you said. If I can just plug the nipple on the plenum like people are saying and go on my way with a little bit of a heavier clutch I'm all about it.

[Ace2cool]

I don't necessarily see a problem with it, but the ratio maybe different, making the pedal a little harder to push than the N/A cylinder.

[Absolomb]

So I just removed the vacuum line connected to the plenum (I didnt cap the nipple yet) and I still have the hiss thats coming from under my dash. Any ideas? I assume capping is just to keep debris out, if that disconnected the booster why is it still hissing urghhh.

Edit: Hissing is only interrupted by giving gas, pushing the clutch or brake has no effect on it. Definitely still sounds like its coming from the clutch booster. I'm wondering if this is why my idle bounces down and almost stalls the car when I give it gas (when warm) or when I push the clutch in and am coming to a stop. I had been trying to diagnose that before I came across this.

[NolimitZ32]

Sounds like an intake leak, possibly at your PCVs or IACV.

[Absolomb]

Sounds like an intake leak, possibly at your PCVs or IACV.

So after plugging the booster port on the plenum, and still having a hiss I stuck my head into the foot well and the hiss is coming from the left of the clutch pedal where all the fuses and s*** are... any ideas?