**Clutch Pedal Feels Wierd**

[robbie2009]

I noticed the other day that my clutch pedal wants to stick when I push it in all the way, like it doesn't want to come back out. When I am driving my clucth deosn't slip or anything, so I was wondering if it could possibly be the master cylinder or either the slave cylinder? How do I test to find out it isn't those parts or how to find out it is them? Also my hatch leaks because I noticed there is no weatherstripping there, do I have to buy oem weatherstripping or could I buy universal and use there? THANKS, HAVE A NICE DAY!!!

[slidewaysAZN]

if you want to check if you have a bad slave sqeeze or move back the rubber boot the the slave fork and if there is any fluid you know your slave is bad

[scottydog]

The master cylinder will leak onto the floorboard under the pedal. The slave cylinder will have fluid on it if it has gone bad.

You have a leak somewhere in the hydraulics.

My suggestion- Replace both the master and slave cylinder (about $50), and dump that useless "connector" box down by the slave that is likely gummed up. Buy a female/female brake metric brake line connector and hook up the two lines after you remove it. Then flush/bleed the system, adjust the clutch and you're done.

This would take about 2 hours total. Much easier than replacing the clutch.

[rb25drag]

Or your pedal just needs adjusted. Loosen the nut on the rod that goes from your pedal to the slave and extend the rod more for a longer pedal. This should fix your problem, Buddy if mine had same problem. Takes about 3 mins to fix.

[scottydog]

If his pedal goes down and won't come back up it is a leak and/or air in the system.

If a clutch needs adjustment it will slip or not be able to go into gear.

[rb25drag]

If his pedal goes down and won't come back up it is a leak and/or air in the system.

If a clutch needs adjustment it will slip or not be able to go into gear.

Not always the case!! My buddies felt like it had air in the lines it was real spungy would only give half a pedal. Went into gear fine and also shifted fine but wouldnt come all the way up unless you pull it by foot. SO I adjusted the rod giving it more length to pump and it pumped right up!! its like a brand new system was installed.

You might have air in the lines but as a suggestion try adjusting the pedal first b/c it takes less time and then go from there. But im 99% this is you problem.

[scottydog]

He mentioned "clutch pedal wants to stick when I push it in all the way". That is likely to be a bad master/slave or stuck connector box. If it's out of adjustment it may not come all the way up but should be reasonably close to full return.

It's an easy matter to find nasty clutch fluid on the floorboard or at the slave.

JMO...

[sahtt57]

I noticed the other day that my clutch pedal wants to stick when I push it in all the way, like it doesn't want to come back out. When I am driving my clucth deosn't slip or anything, so I was wondering if it could possibly be the master cylinder or either the slave cylinder? How do I test to find out it isn't those parts or how to find out it is them? Also my hatch leaks because I noticed there is no weatherstripping there, do I have to buy oem weatherstripping or could I buy universal and use there? THANKS, HAVE A NICE DAY!!!

Your clutch fluid has been compromised. Either the master, slave, or a connection is leaking. The master is actually a little difficult to visually inspect. I'd suggest getting a paper towel and rubber banding it to the master if you cannot figure out what's leaking. Or if both units are OEM, replace them both. Even from Nissan it's a worthwhile maint. project cost wise. Make sure you bleed the clutch properly afterwards. Discussions on replacing the parts and bleeding the clutch fluid-240sx clutch fluid.

[robbie2009]

Alright, I think i'm just gonna order a new oem master and slave cylinder. Not to much money and would prolly be worth it having 186k miles on it.

[scottydog]

If your car has original hydraulics for sure redo the whole system. Easy, cheap and much less labor than a new clutch.

I just did this with my 16 year old son. One extra bit of advise. After we replaced the master/slave it kept going out of adjustment. My son burnt out the clutch one day trying to get home.

So long story short after replacing the clutch (not much fun) turns out the clutch connector box near the slave crapped out, probably from flushing out all the old fluid and gumming up the piston in that d*mn box.

The connector box is pretty much useless anyway, supposed to reduce vibrations but we can't tell the difference. Trust me and just yank that piece of crap, buy a small female-female metric union and connect the two lines, then bleed the system. Everyone on this site seems to get rid of it eventually.

I have the manual in electronic form. Check your email inbox for it.

Have fun and drive safe!

Scott