clutch pedal/ clutch adjusting???

[nismo_power]

so here it is, i just bought a brand new strage 2 clutch from clutch masters...i installed it and now my clutch pedal is not the same anymore???what i mean by this is that the clutch pedal does not eat at the same hieght anymore, it use to eat right when i start to let go of the clutch pedal, but now it eats very high almost when i let go of the clutch pedal all the way...how do i adujust it to eat when i start to let go of the clutch???

also my clutch pedal is very soft...this guy told me that when i bleed the clutch all i need to do is bleed it enough so that it can go into gear, so thats what i did...but my clutch is super soft and its a stage 2???i find this kind of odd...so how would i get my clutch to be harder???

ive done so much i getting ready to give up?? please help me, anything will help...thanks

[neverlift]

are you bleeding at the damper box or the slave first? the slave goes last btw

[DjPantsSpecR]

yep, first clutch jobs are a *****. fortunately, my first was with my dad on one of my beamers when i was 10.

i bought an XTD stage 3, so we're comparable. Okay, pedal height is almost always gonna be different, so you're right to be alarmed. now to fix the engagement height, you lay down by where you foot pedals are, then as you look up check out the clutch pedal.

you'll see that when you push the pedal in it acts on a rod. you'll see that this rod is threaded, and it has at least one nut on it. this is the adjustment. it's hard to explain, but you'll figure it out when you get there. plus if you search around some i know there are pictures on this site.

did you replace the slave cylinder when you did the clutch? because if you never opened up the hydraulic system (whihc i imagine you removed that damper box, which alos attributes to the increased engagement height) but either way.... you have to bleed your *** off.

i got sick of it after an hour with little result and i see that the highest point of the hydraulic system is a metal line running along the top of the firewall. even the resevoir is lower than this point.... so air is GOING to get trapped at this point.

i unbolted the resevoir (the thing thats connected to that rod you adjusted in the first part of this post) and i gently unbent the hardline ever so much. i opened the cap and raised this whole assembly as high as i could. as soon as i raised it to a certain heaight you could see and hear alarge bubble exit out of the resevoir.

BUT.... chances are you are expecting a nice *** stiff clutch right? that would be in the pressure plate. my xtd or exedy plate feels as soft as stock. chances are your pressure plate is stock as well, thats whyfor the difference.

[nismo_power]

hmmm...i believe my pressure plate is a stage 2 racing heavy duty pressure plate...i got with the clutch kit from http://www.eclutchmaster.com suppose to hold up to 1900lbs...is that still stock???

i took the damper out...and got a new master clutch cylinder and slave cylinder...maybe i need to bleed it more...

is this rod the one on the master clutch cylinder that comes into the car or is it the one on the clutch pedal itself???and am i turning this bolt in or out, for it to set lower???

[DjPantsSpecR]

i couldnt find a 240 clutch on there, but i did see their stage 2 kit.

removing the damper automatically descreases the amount of pedal travel needed to release the clutch, as fluid literally just goes around in this thing to take up some "slack" if you will

well, the rod does connect to both the pedal and the cyl, its inside the car, but right by the fire wall, go take a look if you havent.

and sorry, youre just gonna ahve to think it out, becasue i didnt know which way to go with it.. youll figure it out though i guarantee

[nismo_power]

go to racing clutch, then type in 240sxm in there search box...it should come up with four options, mine is the last one ka24de...

i look under there before, is the rod that connected to the clutch master cylinder...so i would have to remove the pin on the clutch pedal and little rod that the pin goes through, then turn the fork that goes on the clutch pedal...is that right???

or is it the one with the sensor on it???

[DjPantsSpecR]

yeah its the one with the fork.

now do you have to undo the pin, or can you just get a wrench on the bolt and turn it out?

[madmeg323]

you do not have to undo the forks on the clutch pedal. just loosen the nut and use a pair of pliers to turn the rod. just some advise use a sharpie and mark a line on this rod so you can count how many times you turn it, I hade the same problem when I replaced my clutch.

After you mark it and loosen then nut, when your looking up at it from the floorboard of your car, turning it clockwiase will raise the pedal hight. Meaning it will engage higher on the pedal. and moveing it the other will do the other. Warning !!!!!!!! only move in very small turns, to much and it will not disengage and it will slip, to little and it will not go in gear at all.

It is a tricky surgery and hard on your back.

Just take notes, bleed, turn, drive, cuss, turn some more.

good luck

[nismo_power]

hmmm...if i dont undo the fork from the pedal, how will i turn the fork when it is connected to the pedal???and i was told from someone else that turning it clockwise will make it lower???

[madmeg323]

its one or the other. it has been awhile since I had to do it. It will turn if you loosen the nut that is on the bar just loosen it and after you have made your turns tighten it back.

Sorry about the wrong direction. It will make the changes you need.

[nismo_power]

okay now i got it adjusted and bled the whole system again, but the clutch pedal still seems to be very soft???when i let the pedal go and it is coming up at the top it is very soft, it is loose there i can just pull the pedal up and down with ease...but is a little bit harder at the bottom...i know this is not right...what is wrong with my clutch...

[madmeg323]

how does it drive? is there any slip??

[nismo_power]

i dont know what u mean by does it slip cause i have never experienced a clutch slipping before...but it goes into gear everytime smooth...its just that the clutch is soft???

[madmeg323]

slipping is when you get on it hard in first gear spinning tires and when you change to second and pop the clutch it doesnt grab, RPMs climb but speed doesnt go up for a couple of seconds. ANd you can smell the clutch when you stop.

[nismo_power]

okay my clutch does not slip but let me put it this was, my clutch is so soft that when i pop the clutch at like 4-5 grand it will not lose traction...i took it apart and looked at it and it is assembled good still...what is wrong???ive replaced the clutch slave and clutch master cylinder...there is no torque at all...man this is pi**ing me off....please help me???

[madmeg323]

3 things it could be,( none is good!!) bad clutch disk, bad pressure plate, or bad flywheel. If you have replaced the slave, and master cylnder and bled the hell out of it, thats pretty much all it can be. Good luck and let me know.

[nismo_power]

do u think its the clutch/pressure plate???cause the flywheel is stock and just resurfaced...

[spank044]

Check this out, it worked wonders for me!!!!!!!!!!

http://www.zeroyon.com/index/content/view/32/47/

[madmeg323]

try what he said

[nismo_power]

thanks but i aready did that when i first put my clutch in...this clutch freakin s**ks dont ever buy from eclutchmaster.com!!!!!!!!!

[LayNLow240]

man whats up with all the pictures? if you want a sig go to your user cp/profile.

[madmeg323]

didnt mean to put in the big one