OK. When starting out in first i can hear a metal on metal type sound... and along with that rpms rise with little speed increase... So im pretty sure its time to get on the ball with a clutch change. Anyone recommend any types of clutches? I really want something with more hold capacity and something that can handle over sized tires =) Thanks guys!
~JC
Clutch options
Re: Clutch options (JC87HB)
I bought a Zoom stage 1 carbon kevlar clutch for $100.00 for my old 87 HB. I guess any decent stage one clutch that isn't more than $300.00 would be perfect, (300.00 is the absolute limit here in my book, at least for a stage 1, and brand loyalty would be the only thing I can see that would invalidate this). I guess a dual plate clutch would work, too, but how much do those cost? Probably too much, but you should check anyway just to be sure. I was happy with the $100.00 Zoom, that's for sure. F'in bulletproof. I know I said $300.00 was my proposed limit, but I wouldn't be happy to pay even that much. Ebay kits are under $100.00, and I just might give one a shot if (when?) my HB clutch takes a s***.
Re: (Reverend D)
The clutch on my old 2wd was GRAVY to replace. The only special tools I needed were really long extensions for the upper bellhousing bolts, and the clutch alignment tool that comes with the clutch kit.
I used an impact gun to loosen the flywheel bolts, and also to re-tighten them, (this made the job way easier because the flywheel bolts are really tight, and need to go back on that way). This will not be neccessary if you aren't gonna have the flywheel resurfaced, but I did. If you do take the flywheel off, you will be suprised at how heavy it is, (about 25lbs).
Other than that, remember to mark the relationship between the rear end and the driveshft with a little paint or white-out so it goes back on in the original position.
Drain the transmission prior to unbolting the driveshaft from the rear end or else it will easily pull out of the transmission, and dump nasty oil/lube all over the place.
I had to cut the old pilot bushing out with a chisel. The grease trick didn't work for me.
Me and my roommate dropped the transmission by hand. It weighed about 90lbs. The 4wd is not able to be serviced this easily.
I used an impact gun to loosen the flywheel bolts, and also to re-tighten them, (this made the job way easier because the flywheel bolts are really tight, and need to go back on that way). This will not be neccessary if you aren't gonna have the flywheel resurfaced, but I did. If you do take the flywheel off, you will be suprised at how heavy it is, (about 25lbs).
Other than that, remember to mark the relationship between the rear end and the driveshft with a little paint or white-out so it goes back on in the original position.
Drain the transmission prior to unbolting the driveshaft from the rear end or else it will easily pull out of the transmission, and dump nasty oil/lube all over the place.
I had to cut the old pilot bushing out with a chisel. The grease trick didn't work for me.
Me and my roommate dropped the transmission by hand. It weighed about 90lbs. The 4wd is not able to be serviced this easily.
Re: (seang)
Yah I got my new slave and master cylinder on... I just want to do this clutch cheaply and quickly... Im getting some 30x9.5 tires so im going with the Centerforce1 clutch... Unless you guys have something to suggest thats better/cheaper! Also you think this can be a switch 2 man job?
Re: (Reverend D)
yah i know haha.. thats why i was asking for solutions that were cheaper with equal quality.... a 200$ clutch would be sweet... Centerforce is like 260$ or something... haha
Re: (JC87HB)
I forgot to mention that the slave cylinder failed a day after the new clutch and pressure plate went in. The master cylinder never failed.