Clutch not disengaging all the way? Shifting issues

[KTMrida4life]

Im still having these problems.. theyre getting worse as I put more miles on the car. Car now has 20k miles on it. Its a 95 S14. In the morning when everything is cold, the 1st to 2nd shift is near about impossible because 2nd feels like it doesnt even exist.

Which is understandable.. fluid doesnt work well when its cold. However once it warms up, it still doesnt feel great. I can get from gear to gear just fine, however, it feels a bit clunky. Sometimes it feels like Im driving a truck and banging gears like a UPS driver, and not driving a sports car.. it used to not be like this. I have Redline MT90 in the gearbox and its been in there for 5k miles or so. It is also very difficult to get a smooth shift, you can feel every shift.. again, it used to not be like this. Oh, and reverse is a ***** to get into.. it wont even do it with the car sitting still sometimes. You have to let it roll then force it in there. What the heck?

A while back (last summer) per recommendation on here I removed the clutch dampening crap under the car. When I did this, I had to bleed the clutch.. did so using the bleeder valve and a friend to push the pedal. It was SOOOO much better after doing this I was amazed... well it lasted about 2 weeks before it got worse. What does this mean?

Also, would adjusting where the clutch pedal engages do any good or is something else wrong? Help

[compactfean]

It definately sounds like there is air in the system. Id try and gravity bleed, and then with 2 people bleed the system. crack the bleeder, push the clutch in, tighten bleeder, let clutch out. ”pumping” doesn't really work that well. Also, yes, adjusting the clutch master cylinder rod can help if the slave cylinder isn't moving very much.,(I would have someone watch to see how far it moves when you push the clutch in .... I'm guessing not very far.)

[KTMrida4life]

It definately sounds like there is air in the system. Id try and gravity bleed, and then with 2 people bleed the system. crack the bleeder, push the clutch in, tighten bleeder, let clutch out. ”pumping” doesn't really work that well. Also, yes, adjusting the clutch master cylinder rod can help if the slave cylinder isn't moving very much.,(I would have someone watch to see how far it moves when you push the clutch in .... I'm guessing not very far.)

Should I be watching down at the transmission where it pushes the contact plate for the actual clutch, or up at the slave?

Thanks for the advice, I'll give it a go tomorrow. I was doing it wrong. I was pushing the pedal in, cracking the bleeder, then closing. Different order from what you said.

[compactfean]

Not quite sure what your saying but the slave cylinder has a pin that pushes the arm that goes into the trans. You will be able to see it on the passenger side on the side.of the trans. And the way you were bleeding it is the way you would do regular brakes, where you can actually build pressure.

[KTMrida4life]

Not quite sure what your saying but the slave cylinder has a pin that pushes the arm that goes into the trans. You will be able to see it on the passenger side on the side.of the trans. And the way you were bleeding it is the way you would do regular brakes, where you can actually build pressure.

Oh... the method I gave is the way I bleed the brakes on my dirtbike. That would make sense.

For the clutch on my dirtbike.. the best way is actually to crack open the bleeder and use a big syringe filled with fluid to back bleed the system. Always works best on the bikes because air would rather go up and not down because of gravity. Do you have any experience with that on a car? Does it work?

[KTMrida4life]

Not quite sure what your saying but the slave cylinder has a pin that pushes the arm that goes into the trans.

Yeah I mixed it up, I meant, should I be looking at the slave down by the transmission (and that pin) or up at the MC?

Also, how much freeplay should be in that pedal, and by freeplay, do people mean how much freeplay is in the actual freeplay mech or what? When I push on my pedal, theres probably only 1mm of freeplay, but theres at least a 1/2" of pedal push that does absolutely nothing. Not even stiff.. but I wouldnt call it freeplay.

[KTMrida4life]

I bled the clutch last week like he said ^^, and then adjusted the freeplay in the pedal..

It was SO much better for about 5 minutes. I could actually hit reverse no problem, no more notchyness while shifting, no banging gears, smoother transistions between gears, ETC...

Very short lived. Now its back to how it was. What the heck is going on? Air has to be getting into the system somehow. Is it the MC?

[moso]

sounds like you have a seal going bad on the master. the master and slave are fairly inexpensive so i have always replaced them both at the same time. I have only had to do it twice, once on both of the 240's i have owned. once and then never again, god i love nissans!

[KTMrida4life]

sounds like you have a seal going bad on the master. the master and slave are fairly inexpensive so i have always replaced them both at the same time. I have only had to do it twice, once on both of the 240's i have owned. once and then never again, god i love nissans!

Well thats good to hear!!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/150740215780?ss ... 006wt_1396

Are those any good? I want to replace both as well asap. Those seem to be decent brand names.. I know I've heard of Exedy before.

[moso]

Honestly I can get both cheaper here at my local Napa, and I trust the parts and the warranty.

[KTMrida4life]

Honestly I can get both cheaper here at my local Napa, and I trust the parts and the warranty.

Really? Have any part numbers that would fit on an S14?

[KTMrida4life]

Honestly I can get both cheaper here at my local Napa, and I trust the parts and the warranty.

I just looked it up and the slave for my car is 13.69 which is great, but the master is 66.49. Thats not cheaper

[moso]

after doing some reading it appears the s14 master is shorter?! that may account for the price difference.