Clutch Line HELP!!!!!!

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MrFeesLaw
Posts: 162
Joined: Tue Sep 15, 2015 8:39 pm
Car: 1993 300zx 2+2

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Hey guys,

Bought a clutch line from a company online. It said it was long enough to go from the "master cylinder outlet" to the "slave cylinder inlet". To me, this means that it goes from the top of my clutch pedal, over/under the trans to the slave...

The product I received is about 12 inches long... Obviously too short to reach where I need it to. I thought I was being ripped off!... But looking around online it looks like a lot of companies that I normally go through are selling the same length hose!? How could this possibly work!? There is no way this could reach a 4 foot gap!!!??? Are all these companies selling some shoddy product? Or am I missing something here!?

PLEASE HELP!!!!!!

~Thanks Guys!


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MrFeesLaw
Posts: 162
Joined: Tue Sep 15, 2015 8:39 pm
Car: 1993 300zx 2+2

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I just looked up some diagrams online and it looks like the factory line is rubber on the slave cylinder end, and then it connects to the metal clutch lines that reach to the master... Which would be fine, but the company said "From Master Cylinder Outlet to Slave Cylinder Inlet". Not, "From Master Cylinder Connecting Clutch Line to Slave Cylinder Inlet". This to me is false advertising... The companies website is conveniently down for maintinance today, so I have no way to complain or demand a refund... but as soon as that website is back up I will be B!+CH!NG up a storm!

Make sure you look for pictures or diagrams of some sort before ordering parts guys. This website had no specific pictures of the item I ordered and did not send what they described!!!

I was hoping to save a few bucks by straying away from the normal Z parts sites, and it ended up screwing me. Sites like Z1 and ConceptZ are a little bit pricier, but it would seem the quality is definitely worth the price and keeping your hair on your head...

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NolimitZ32
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Car: 91 AG2 2+0 TTMT swap/E39 BMW 540i6/E53 4.6is Dinan S3
Location: Houston, TX

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This is the standard for the part you bought. There is ABSOLUTELY no reason to run a soft (be it braided) line all the way from the master, in fact the hard line is better because it stays where designed and is completely out of the way, it also does not expand or contract (expect the minor molecular expansion/contraction due to temperature changes). If you bought from Z1, SZ, CZP or one of the other vendors you could certainly ask for a refund and a lot of the time they are happy to grant it to you (minus the shipping charge), Next time I would suggest you do a bit more research on the seller before committing. Also may I ask why it is that you want a soft line running that far?

itsa300zx
Posts: 1287
Joined: Sun May 31, 2009 9:39 am
Car: 1990 300zx NA W/TT swap
2011 Nissan Rogue S
2008 Highlander SR5
Location: up North

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I believe he is doing a auto to manual swap, therefore, much more cost effective than running the OEM path/lines.

Actually, there is nothing wrong with running a braided SS flex line from the clutch master to slave cylinder. I pressure test these flex line occasionally at work and there is very minimal bulge at their max working pressures. I have been using one from z-speed for over 5 years when I did my fender bleed delete. Absolutely no problems and much much easier to bleed the clutch system.

OP, when ordering these lines, be sure to order the "long" one and be sure they include the copper washers and banjo fittings. All the vendors listed above sell both lenghts.

Hope that helps

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MrFeesLaw
Posts: 162
Joined: Tue Sep 15, 2015 8:39 pm
Car: 1993 300zx 2+2

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Thanks guys! itsa300zx is correct, I am doing a manual swap and don't want to run the full metal line setup through my engine bay (especially since I already have the trans in). Saving money is a nice bonus too...

I noticed you said to get the longer of the two lines itsa300zx... Why is that? I see that there is a 68 inch, and a 81 and a half inch from conceptz. I know the longer of the two is meant to be routed in the factory position in the engine bay. Is this better? What are the benefits of this? Is it easier to install? Easier to bleed? Or does it just look nicer?

And thanks again for the advice guys!

itsa300zx
Posts: 1287
Joined: Sun May 31, 2009 9:39 am
Car: 1990 300zx NA W/TT swap
2011 Nissan Rogue S
2008 Highlander SR5
Location: up North

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By longer, I meant longer than the short 18" line.

I am using this line from z-speed, at the time it was on sale, IIRC was $29.95
http://www.zspeedperformance.com/ZSpeed ... SP1008.htm

I routed it near the stock line because my engine was out at the time. If your engine and trans is already installed I would just get the most direct route.

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NolimitZ32
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Joined: Fri Jun 27, 2008 9:07 am
Car: 91 AG2 2+0 TTMT swap/E39 BMW 540i6/E53 4.6is Dinan S3
Location: Houston, TX

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Ahh, Makes sense, I completely forget sometimes that these cars were made with an auto, hahaha oops.

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MrFeesLaw
Posts: 162
Joined: Tue Sep 15, 2015 8:39 pm
Car: 1993 300zx 2+2

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itsa300zx wrote:By longer, I meant longer than the short 18" line.

I am using this line from z-speed, at the time it was on sale, IIRC was $29.95
http://www.zspeedperformance.com/ZSpeed ... SP1008.htm

I routed it near the stock line because my engine was out at the time. If your engine and trans is already installed I would just get the most direct route.
Unfortunately I assumed everyone wanted the longer one and I ordered the 81.5" length... Oops... I will have to play with it a bit to get it routed neatly. Oh well... Thanks for the help guys!


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