I was able to do a clutch job without an engine hoist over the last few days and I'll try to do a good write up for anyone that is in a similar situation as I was able to find a good write up that was a step by step anywhere on the youtubes or forums. I wanted to post it here because Nicoclub had the service manual that I used as a reference constantly. A couple of other notes before I get started: Safety first! Please be safe, use jackstands and when the engine and trans are hanging by the mounts don't go underneath them, avoid being in their direct line of fire. Make sure your motor and trans mounts are in good shape and in one piece as I mentioned you will be hanging the assemblies by them as you drag the front subframe out. Take your time, I did this over a period of 5 days because I broke my shift cable taking it off the trans and had to wait to get parts but it could be done in 2-3 days easily. I also was replacing my clutch master and dampner as the same time and it all added time. Organize your work area, I set up a table and put every part I took off in order with any hardware so I could easily put it all back in the order it came off.

OK here we go.

Get the racecar up on jackstands, I had 2 notches exposed so I guess it was 10-12 inches. you need clearance to pull the trans out from under the car.

Remove the battery, battery tray, ecu, intake, be careful and take your time removing all the harness clips

Remove the passenger and driver axles, I leave it on the knuckle and wrap the ABS sensor around the hub. Hang your caliper from the spring and disconnect the upper sway bar end link from the strut. If your lower ball joint is stuck use penetrating oil and jack it up. Wedge a socket in between the knuckle an the lower arm. When you release the jack the weight of the strut will pop it out or keep using larger sockets until it does.

Remove the drivers fender liner.

Remove the lower trans bolts, the engine and trans will swing towards you to remind you they can cruch you at any minute. Disconnect the steering rack from the column under the dash, one bolt and a clip. Remove all 8 18mm subframe bolts (an extra body helps here, I supported it with jacks and ramps) Remove from under the car. Immediately support the engine under the pan. I used a cinder block, scissor jack and a block of wood. I like scissor jack because they can't pump down over night.

Remove the ground wire from the trans and disconnect the hydraulic line from the dampner and slave cylinder. Drain/ plug lined. I replaced everything. Remove the blue switch from the trans under the battery tray and plug hole (I used duct tape). I did this so i wouldn't break it when removing the trans. Carefully disconnect the shift cables. Disconnect the black switch harness free from the trans.

Remove the starter.

Harbor Freight sells a great cheap 450lb. scissor style trans jack for $99. install it under the trans and run the strap over the diff but under the slave cylinder. Once supported remove all but the top 2 18mm bolts. Remove the trans mount completely. Remove the trans mount bracket. Remove the last two bolts from the trans and double check that nothing is still attached to the trans. Pull the trans off the engine, it will have to be tilted slightly and then lowered to the ground and rolled out from under the car.

Make sure you have a good clutch alignment tool, the one that came with my Nissan kit was horrible.

assemble in reverse.

hope that helps.

I forgot to add a couple things. Drain the trans fluid before you pull your axles. Also when bleeding the slave there is a notch on the slave where you can wedge a flat head screwdriver in behind the fitting. Wedge it between the block and the hose so you can push the connector back in and not squirt brake fluid into the transmission.