clutch is slipping after replacing master cyl

[alright2020]

so i know my clutch is not the bad part its about a month old 6 puck clutch so i know its not worn out or anything

my master cyl went out so i replaced it and it stilled wthen i put it in then i adjusted the master cyl bracket and then it was perfect no slipping at all

now it started slipping again and ive adjusted it a couple times to try to solve it but it doesnt seem to be helping.

its there some other adjustment? what else could be wrong?

[mac_daddy]

how tight did you adjust it? is the pedal all the way out like its suppose to be or is it sitting more toward the floor? im sure you bled the system and all. the transmission slipping doesnt really sound like a master cylinder problem to me.. maybe check the gear oil in the transmission

[alright2020]

the pedel is all teh way out with about a half of inch of movement at top of pedel. yes teh clutch is bled and its not a transmission issue because mannual trans dont slip

i replaced teh master becuase the other one went bad. the plunger didnt work right on it

[mac_daddy]

Not trying to be an a** but you kinda just contradicted yourself saying that manual trans dont slip but you're having a slipping issue....lol i'm not exactly sure what your experiencing but if i had this problem i would probably check the transmission fluid unless it's recently been changed. could you have gotten a faulty master cylinder? maybe you could check the slave.idk if any of this could work but just giving ideas to help

[Zwicked]

It's either air in the system or not set up right, or a combination of the 2. The fender and slave nipple need to be bled. It works best if you alternate between the 2 and do this 3 times or more until there is no sign of air. Air expands when the fluid warms up (hygroscopic) and acts on the slave just like you are putting pressure on the clutch pedal causing it to slightly release.After proper bleeding the pedal rod needs to be adjusted so you have about 1/2" free play at the top to ensure it's fully engaged.

* if it's driven long with it allowed to slip it will permanently damage the clutch.

If after doing the above it still slips, it can only be the clutch itself.

[alright2020]

where is the fender bleed? i replaced the slave as well jsut because it was onlye 13 bucks. im aware it will cause damage to the clutch if i drive it while slipping . ive tried bleeding several times and adjusting so really in my head the only thing thats left is the clutch itself and im seriously doubting a stage 3 6 puck clutch with proper ~700 mile breakin and total 2000 miles on it would be slipping already it grips solid as can be on teh low end...and macdaddy its a clutch issue not a transmission issue the clutch is what puts the power to the gears in teh transmission if the transmission was slippign there would be all kinds of gear grinding and it owuld be obvious. its not an automatic so actualyl i didnt contradict myself i stated my clutch is slipping i never stated anythign about the transmission so actually your the one that sounds like an idiot

[rioredstang]

It sounds like the rod in the master cylinder is not returning all the way back. There is a compensation port in the rear of the m/c that relieves the pressure on the clutch. If the m/c rod doesn't return all the way back the clutch doesn't completely engage and will slip. Usually the pedal will be all the way up with no free travel. If this is happening the clutch will release at the top with very little travel. If you have a little free travel on the m/c rod, I would think you have a bad m/c. I don't know if you bought a reman. or a new one. Even if it's new it can be bad. I think it's bad!

[mac_daddy]

and macdaddy its a clutch issue not a transmission issue the clutch is what puts the power to the gears in teh transmission if the transmission was slippign there would be all kinds of gear grinding and it owuld be obvious. its not an automatic so actualyl i didnt contradict myself i stated my clutch is slipping i never stated anythign about the transmission so actually your the one that sounds like an idiot

I'm just trying to help you out. Never said you were an idiot. No need to talk sh** on a forum as easy as you find it. Anyways they all act together so one thing could affect another. seriously doubt that the slave or master would have anything to do with your clutch slipping because all those do is build up the pressure to engage/disengage the clutch. But good luck to you

[s13_the40]

i had the same problem on my s13 240 when i replaced the clutch and the slave i found out that my flywheel was resurface wrong(i didnt tell the mechanic to resurface the fly wheel ) once i replace the flywheel, wala no more slip. that could be the problem if they resurface the flywheel without telling you.you should talk to whoever replace the clutch for you if the resurface it. If not then u need to replace flywheel.

[alright2020]

macdaddy i was in a bad mood earlier..sorry about that one i just foudn any little thing to go off on and i just found that yuour knowledge didnt help as you can ready that the fluid system can have everyhtign to do with it slipping as the clutch is almost breand new and the fluid is what realeases it...

and im the one that put the clutch in and it is all torqued to spec and has a fresh flywheel. im positive its an adjustment or a fluid issue.... ill have ot check into the master more but i coudl see the new one being bad...and ive adjusted it several ways including putting the engagement so close to the floor it was hard to disengage jsut so i coudl be positive it wasnt adjusting teh pedel out enough that was the issue. ill look into the master cyl not relaesing

[Zwicked]

Unless someone removed the damper line on the PS fender, it should be right next to the HICAS solenoid.With some HP clutches, you need to back the 2 switches out to allow more pedal stroke so it will totally release when you put the pedal down. The switches are on the bracket at where the pedal rests. You can adjust them if you pull the vent out on the side of the dash where the door closes. Back them out so the threads just protrude through the bracket, then adjust the rod until the pedal just closes the switches, BUT DOESN"T BOTTOM THEM OUT. This will provide maximum pedal travel so the clutch fully releases and leave perfect amount of free play at the top.Again, it's imperative to get all air out.

By the way, what brand of clutch is it, and is it a stock flywheel? Did you resurface the stock flywheel and perhaps not have the factory step machined back into it? I did that once (before changing to an RPS flywheel) and as much as some say it doesn't matter, it does and the clutch will slip in 3rd and above if you give it a lot of throttle as without the step it lowers the clamping force of the pressure plate.

[rioredstang]

You might try checking the clutch arm going into the transmission. At rest there should be a little free travel. If no free travel then something is holding it in as I said earlier. If there is free travel then I have bad news, throw out bearing is binding on the input shaft housing or the pressure plate has some type of failure. In either case you will have to pull transmission and inspect.

[alright2020]

i have no fender bleeder because i did a tt swap so no tt clutch booster or hicas or any of that. and its the stock na flywheel with a generic brand 6 puck clutch...ive personally seen and bought the clutch from a z show that put it in all thier swaps and saw it in a car that dynoed at 483 at wheels so i know it shoouldnt have failed because i am putting down less hp then that and it had a proper break in... its the stock na flywheel and im pretty sure the na flywheel didnt have a step machined into it from teh factory?

[Zwicked]

Correct, the NA flywheel does not have the raised area, so if a TT clutch is bolted to it, it won't have the clamping force it would have with a TT flywheel. A could of years ago when I changed my clutch, I installed an RPS clutch and had my tt flywheel machined. The shop machined it flat without the step, and after reading posts where it was said it doesn't matter, I installed it. Right away it slipped in high gear under hard throttle. Change it out to an RPS lightweight flywheel and no issues any longer as it too has the friction area raised above the pressure plate mounting surface.

If there is free play at the top of your pedal once it's warmed up, indicating it's fully engaged and it still slips, it has to be the clutch itself. If there's no free play when cold it's adjustment, and if there is free play when it's cold and that disappears once the system warms up, it's air in the lines.

*Nice looking car by the way. Love the paint scheme!
Modified by Zwicked at 7:56 AM 12/8/2009

[alright2020]

thanks for the paint compliment.

i am runnig the stock na flywheel and na staged clutch to avoid confusing a tt clutch doesnt bolt because the flywheel is smaller. im realyl curious what is wrong now because if this clutch has already fail i will be livin since its only a montha nd a half old... ill drop the transmission this weeked or the weekend after and find out.. thanks for the help

[mac_daddy]

macdaddy i was in a bad mood earlier..sorry about that one i just foudn any little thing to go off on and i just found that yuour knowledge didnt help as you can ready that the fluid system can have everyhtign to do with it slipping as the clutch is almost breand new and the fluid is what realeases it...

No worries we've all been there before lol plus i know i'm not the smartest with cars i mean i've done a couple 240 swaps but u can never learn enough about cars. anyways i hope you find your problem when you drop the transmission. also how hard was the tt swap? jw

[alright2020]

its not to bad if you make sur eyou have all the right parts and a decent know how and a good set of tools. honestly just making sure everythign is right is the hardest part. its not hard to pull a motor.. then all the cleaning and prepping then putting on all teh ic piping and such dropping motor in hooking everythign up triple checking everythign .... its not a bad process i did it in a few days on jackstands

[mac_daddy]

so not to bad once you have all the parts huh? i've been savin up cuz i wanna swap my slicktop. always want more power lolso have you found out whats up with your clutch yet?

[Zwicked]

I think most people that use an NA transmission, grind the inside of it and use a TT flywheel and clutch. Also requires shimming the starter. Possibly due to the smaller diameter it doesn't have the holding power, or maybe yours just has week springs in the pressure plate. I had to pull my trans 4 times in a short period of time. Had it down to less than 45 minutes to get it out and on the floor. Not really a hard job once the exhaust bolts have recently been off and sounds like you have adequate experience being you did a TT swap.

[alright2020]

yep i as well can get the tranyn out in about 45 minutes, finally figured it out my clutch fork and to bearing sleeve were really work and the sleeve spun itself out of the fork and locked itself there leaving constant pressure on the pressure plate.

[HOST]

For some reason I have a love/hate feel for the 2+2s (I know this is off topic) they look really clean if the car is well maintained, the longer rear end makes it look more exotic. But I just don't like having 4 seats for some reason but a 2+2 TT is really nice, rare. That extra bit of rear make any difference in handling?

EDIT: Beautiful paint job btw

Modified by HOST at 11:39 PM 12/17/2009
Modified by HOST at 11:40 PM 12/17/2009

[alright2020]

thanks man. and i have not driven a 2+0 so i am not sure of handling differences. the 4 seats i dont really feel 4 seats lol i see it as more of an ares behind the front seats to keep stuff i very very seldomly have a person back there. another + to a 2+2 is slightly cheaper insurance =] lol and the tt aspect is part of the reason i did the swap and wanted a 2+2 because they never made them available in the us....so anyone lse that has one has swapped it. maybe once i have some money and a daily driver i will consider a front clip swap and have a RHD 2+2 tt...who knows what the futre holds for my baby the possibilities are endless

For some reason I have a love/hate feel for the 2+2s (I know this is off topic) they look really clean if the car is well maintained, the longer rear end makes it look more exotic. But I just don't like having 4 seats for some reason but a 2+2 TT is really nice, rare. That extra bit of rear make any difference in handling?

EDIT: Beautiful paint job btw

Modified by HOST at 11:39 PM 12/17/2009

Modified by HOST at 11:40 PM 12/17/2009

[HOST]

Yeah that's what's so crazy, on the outside it seems like a huge difference but any that I've seen on the inside it's hard to tell, instead of a table-like thing it's two more seats, seats that suck to sit in because there is no leg room lol like in the 240 I used to have.. everyone hated sitting in the back