clutch hydraulics issue on s14 auto to 5spd swap
clutch hydraulics issue on s14 auto to 5spd swap
This is purely an FYI to those who care to know .I recently took my 95 SE auto and converted it to a 5speed .I did this using a complete car for all the parts .hydraulic lines ,pedals ...everypiece got swapped .I bled and bled and bled somemore to no avail .The clutch was shallow with lots of travel at the top and disengagement was incomplete .I tried to adjust the pushrod for the master but this was only a temporary improvement ,because after a short ride the clutch would lose all of its freetravel and slip ,then I adjust it back to gain the right amount of travel and then the next day its shallow and doesnt fully disengage again.This went on for 2 months or so untill I fixed the problem today.This is how I did it ....The factory hydraulic line ended up on the floorpan with this wacky line tee along with a 3/8metal line ending up with a bleeder ,I unscrewed the small line going into this tee,leading from the mastercylinder, and screwed it directly into the slave rubber hose ,thereby eliminating that which undoubtedly was trapping air .I have had no adverse affects in any other areas because of this .Hope this helps someone .
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Florida240sx
- Posts: 11114
- Joined: Thu Jul 01, 2004 7:17 am
- Car: 1993 Nissan 240SX Hatch 5spd
2012 Nissan Altima S coupe 2.5 - Location: DeLand FL
Re: clutch hydraulics issue on s14 auto to 5spd swap (zukitek)
that sounds like the problem i'm having but i bypassed the dampener a while ago. i guess i should bleed the thing again.zukitek wrote:The clutch was shallow with lots of travel at the top and disengagement was incomplete .I tried to adjust the pushrod for the master but this was only a temporary improvement ,because after a short ride the clutch would lose all of its freetravel and slip ,then I adjust it back to gain the right amount of travel and then the next day its shallow and doesnt fully disengage again.
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DjPantsSpecR
- Posts: 1711
- Joined: Fri Jan 14, 2005 12:49 pm
- Car: 93 Nissan MS13
92 Nissan RMS13
nope, you're both wrong
i just bypassed my "damper" on saturday when i put in my XTD stage 3
i really wish it wasn't called a damper either, because thats not what it is. THat box just increases the amount of pedal effort that is required to engage the slave cylinder.
anywho, your problem is this:
i can only assume as Nissan readied the 240sx for america from its Japanese sister, during the conversion from right hand drive to left hand drive they never thought too hard about the clutch lines. On the RHD model, the hardline would simply go down straight to the slave cylinder.
On our LHD 240s, the hardline coming from the clutch resevoir is actually higher than the resevoir itself. Obviously air is going to get traped up here. i bled it for close to an hour before i saw this.
don't unbolt the hardline from the resevoir, but unbolt the resevoir from the car, then unhook it with the pin and cotter pin from the clutch pedal. remove the cap and raise it to the sky. you can bend it some, especially to get the air out of the loop at the resevoir base, and so you dont spin DOT 3 all over....
either way, you will instantly hear a great deal of air being being released. voila, that **** works now. you might even bleed it from the slave again.
my XTD stage 3, resurfaced stock flywheel, and new oem slave result: full slave engagement within 1/4-1/2 inch of pedal movement, but unfortunately a stock soft feel.... or yeah, and it chirps 3rd....
i just bypassed my "damper" on saturday when i put in my XTD stage 3
i really wish it wasn't called a damper either, because thats not what it is. THat box just increases the amount of pedal effort that is required to engage the slave cylinder.
anywho, your problem is this:
i can only assume as Nissan readied the 240sx for america from its Japanese sister, during the conversion from right hand drive to left hand drive they never thought too hard about the clutch lines. On the RHD model, the hardline would simply go down straight to the slave cylinder.
On our LHD 240s, the hardline coming from the clutch resevoir is actually higher than the resevoir itself. Obviously air is going to get traped up here. i bled it for close to an hour before i saw this.
don't unbolt the hardline from the resevoir, but unbolt the resevoir from the car, then unhook it with the pin and cotter pin from the clutch pedal. remove the cap and raise it to the sky. you can bend it some, especially to get the air out of the loop at the resevoir base, and so you dont spin DOT 3 all over....
either way, you will instantly hear a great deal of air being being released. voila, that **** works now. you might even bleed it from the slave again.
my XTD stage 3, resurfaced stock flywheel, and new oem slave result: full slave engagement within 1/4-1/2 inch of pedal movement, but unfortunately a stock soft feel.... or yeah, and it chirps 3rd....
Re: (DjPantsSpecR)
dont know what to tell ya. I bypassed this tee and my hydraulic problem is cured ,therefore ,I dont think Im wrong .BTW ,I didnt upgrade my clutch ....this was a swap of parts from one car to another .I didnt physically check the casting numbers to make sure they were oe parts so I cant speak for that ...it was merely an informative post to those who care .
Ricky
Ricky