Clutch hydraulic problem

[240sleeper]

Hey, I got a 93' hatchback and I recently changed the clutch. After still having problems with the clutch system I also replaced the master and slave cylinders. It was a simple enough job except when I got everything back together I found that the pedal would not return from the floor. I have bled the sytem a dozen times and a dozen different ways. I bought the cheap autozone version of the cylinders so I don't know if thats the culprit. When looking under the car the clutch is nor even being engaged. Would buying a power bleeder solve this? If anyone has tips on bleeding the clutch or possible causes of the problem please help me out. Thanks

[leper421]

Try bleeding it at that box thingy the fluid line goes through on its way to the slave cylinder. Sorry I cant remeber the name of it. The FSM says to bleed the slave and that box. Follow the fluid line back from the slave cylinder to find it.

[Thor]

I just replaced both the slave and master cylinder for my clutch yesterday afternoon. Since I drained all of the fluid out of the system...the normal method to bleed the clutch, by myself, would have taken a long while.

I purchased the $30, hand held, vacuum pump/bleeder. Worked great...bled the system at both the slave cylinder and the junction box. Took around 3 minutes to complete.

Seems to be a handy little item.

-Dave

[240sleeper]

I finally got it bled. The trick was doing it at the junction. I spent almost an hour getting the damn air out of that thing. The funny thing is, I don't see the point of the box, all it does is trap air. Thanks for everyones help

[R240NA]

I finally got it bled. The trick was doing it at the junction. I spent almost an hour getting the damn air out of that thing. The funny thing is, I don't see the point of the box, all it does is trap air. Thanks for everyones help

That is why you take the box off. Run the hard line from the master cylinder directly to the slave, bypassing the box altogether. You can then direct bleed it at the slave in 5 minutes. The box and cooling loop are an after thought in design to help keep clutch fluid from overheating, instead it just traps air and causes problems.

[s13orlando]

That is why you take the box off. Run the hard line from the master cylinder directly to the slave, bypassing the box altogether. You can then direct bleed it at the slave in 5 minutes. The box and cooling loop are an after thought in design to help keep clutch fluid from overheating, instead it just traps air and causes problems.

__________________

Wow..I wish I had seen this post last weekend . That box and loop are causing all kinds of problems on my 1991 KA fastback.The clutch and hydraulic master and slave was replaced. All appeared fine. After the car is driven at highway speedsfor about 30 minutes the clutch won't disengage. I'm waiting fora hydraulic line to come in on 1/13/03 to bypass that block.Thanks,Bob,Orlando,Fl

[E Dogg]

do i need any ne wlines to bypass my clutch loop box?

[nab911]

I have a similar problem except my clutch pedal just has no resistance... I have replaced the clutch, master and slave cylinder and it works just fine theres just very little resistance. Anyone know how to fix that?

[E Dogg]

mine was doing smae thing at first, just bleed it repeatedly, like they siad the block will trap air . Also id chech all the lines and fittings for leaks, if u need put butcher paper under ur car and pump the pedal to find the leak if there is one...

[180fan]

if you want the loop remover lines, check http://www.takamotorsports.com they've got em for 35 + 10 for s&h and if you're in CA then gotta pay tax. They're made from Earl's components so you know they're good stuff.

[E Dogg]

i just hooked the line form slave cyl right up to the actuator for the clutch..$0.00