ok, wow. I'm bleeding my clutch, after I installed the cool steel line I got from SPL this morning. but I can't get any pressure in the line for the life of me. a rundown on how to properly bleed this clutch would be usefull.
also usefull is if you would be willing to come over and help me, 'cause my friend has to go to sleep.
clutch help URGENT
-
BoyWonder
- Posts: 864
- Joined: Fri Jan 23, 2004 10:51 am
- Car: '93 Nissan 240SX S13 Convertible (reclaimed... wootles)
- Contact:
Shouldn't be too hard...Is the Clutch Damener box still in? Because that'll make bleeding take a hell of a lot longer. Might also explain why you can't get any pressure. You can remove it and still have the clutch work fine, but that's up to you. I don't see a reason to keep it, nor do I feel much of a difference in pedal feel. Just makes bleeding easier. Anyways..
With a Dampener: This is a lot easier with 2 people. Start off with removing the master cylinder cap. Next, go under the car and loosen the bleeder valve on the damener box. Now, one person pumps the clutch pedal while the other refils the master cylinder and watches the bleeder valve for bubbles. Once it's shooting out solid streams of clutch fluid, tighten the bleeder valve on the dampener back down, and loosen the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder. Pump the pedal again, with the other person refilling the master cylinder and watching for bubbles. Again, once solid streams of fluid are coming out. Once that happens, tighen the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder. I believe you may have to rebleed the dampener, but I don't remember for sure.. Check to see if there is resistance in the pedal, and that the slave cylinder pin thing that contacts the clutch fork is moving. If you like the feel and it's working correctly, great, if not, go back and bleed it again.
Without the dampener: Much easier/quicker. Still takes 2 people to do it effectivly. Simply pop the cap off the master cylinder, then loosen the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder. One person pumps, the other refils and watches for air bubbles. Again, once it's solid fluid, tighten the bleeder valve. Check the feel. If it's good, you're done. 5-10 minutes at most.
Note: I've never actually bled the clutch with the dampener. This was what I read on the process. I hear it takes forever for it to be done correctly. I have, however, done it without the dampener and it takes no time at all.
With a Dampener: This is a lot easier with 2 people. Start off with removing the master cylinder cap. Next, go under the car and loosen the bleeder valve on the damener box. Now, one person pumps the clutch pedal while the other refils the master cylinder and watches the bleeder valve for bubbles. Once it's shooting out solid streams of clutch fluid, tighten the bleeder valve on the dampener back down, and loosen the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder. Pump the pedal again, with the other person refilling the master cylinder and watching for bubbles. Again, once solid streams of fluid are coming out. Once that happens, tighen the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder. I believe you may have to rebleed the dampener, but I don't remember for sure.. Check to see if there is resistance in the pedal, and that the slave cylinder pin thing that contacts the clutch fork is moving. If you like the feel and it's working correctly, great, if not, go back and bleed it again.
Without the dampener: Much easier/quicker. Still takes 2 people to do it effectivly. Simply pop the cap off the master cylinder, then loosen the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder. One person pumps, the other refils and watches for air bubbles. Again, once it's solid fluid, tighten the bleeder valve. Check the feel. If it's good, you're done. 5-10 minutes at most.
Note: I've never actually bled the clutch with the dampener. This was what I read on the process. I hear it takes forever for it to be done correctly. I have, however, done it without the dampener and it takes no time at all.