clutch help
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getnrowdy23
- Posts: 1224
- Joined: Mon Jan 05, 2004 11:58 am
- Car: '95 sr20det 240sx se/2004 suzuki sv650s
clutch help
aight, here is the deal. i have a 1995 240 i put an s13 blacktop sr in my car. then i put new flywheel (fidanza) and new clutch (ACT 2600) in there. now the pressure of the clutch pedal is nothing, i mean it gets a "little" hard towards the bottom of the stroke. so i thought it was the master cyclinder, nope, changed it still the same. then i thought it might be the slave cylinder, nope, changed it still the same. anyone got any ideas? it still bleeds fluid when opening the valve on the slave. i have bled the clutch so many times, so thats not it. it might be the clutch dampener? i dont know, what do you guys think. thanks
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Ubernoober
- Posts: 539
- Joined: Mon Mar 08, 2004 6:51 pm
You don't say whether or not the pedal is actually working the clutch. If the clutch is operating correctly don't worry about the light feel.
If on the other hand, it is not operating correctly, try this:
Have someone in the car push the pedal down while you are underneath (you ARE up on jackstands with chocks.... right?) and observe the movement of the slave pushrod. Is it actuating the clutch fork correctly? If it is moving the lever but the clutch is not dis-engaging, it is possible that the ACT clutch may have a slightly different spacing. The rod from the slave has a few threads on it that allow some adjustment to take up the slack if I remember correctly. At any rate, if the slave is moving correctly WITH the master, then you are bled correctly and the clutch engagement distance is somehow borked. It is also possible that your clutch fork is not positioned correctly on the fork-pivot, or the pivot itself is broken. This can happen, particularly with an upgraded clutch. Nismo has a hardened replacement.
If the slave is NOT moving with the master correctly and the clutch fork is in contact with the slave rod, then the problem is with the hydraulics. Bleeding can be a pain.
To do it correctly, you open the top on the master. Open the bleeder on the damper. Let it go till it runs free and clean. It will not flow fast, but let at least a few teaspoons flow through. If any bubbles appear or there is a pause in the flow, wait until it runs free without bubbles or pause for about one minute. Pushing the pedal is a last resort at this stage. Unly depress the pedal if the bleeder is ALREADY open. Do NOT put pedal pressure on the system then crack the bleeder. That is not a recommended way to bleed any hydraulic systems and all quality manufacturers will tell you that, whether it is brakes, clutch or industrial. Of course, before you let up on the pedal you must close the bleeder so you do not draw air back in.Once you have bled to the damper (preferably without having to use the pedal) crack the bleeder on the slave. Follow the same procedure. Let it free flow. One minute without air is a good number. Close bleeder. Do NOT push the pedal to the floor rapidly or more than once. You with either have pedal or not. Push slowly and let up slowly. If not, by going fast or pushing more than once, you are just aerating your fluid, which is a disaster. If you do not have pedal, try to bleed with free-dlow at the damper, then the slave again. You can use less fluid this time. If any air appears at the damper, you will have to let quite a bit flow at the slave since it means air is trapper between the two also. Try pedal slowly again. If not, try to bleed by cracking the bleeder at the damper and having a buddy push the pedal to the floor slowly (relatively, you don't have to be a granny here, just don't go all "Conan" on the pedal). BEFORE he lets up, close the bleeder. Do this twice. Do twice at the slave. If that doesn't fix it, pull your hair out, call me an idiot on these boards, curse humanity, then simply remove the damper.
BTW, keep an eye on the fluid level in the master reservoir. If you suck air, or even get a little to low, you just screwed the pooch and get to start from scratch. Happy days.
Good luch and let us know mate!
If on the other hand, it is not operating correctly, try this:
Have someone in the car push the pedal down while you are underneath (you ARE up on jackstands with chocks.... right?) and observe the movement of the slave pushrod. Is it actuating the clutch fork correctly? If it is moving the lever but the clutch is not dis-engaging, it is possible that the ACT clutch may have a slightly different spacing. The rod from the slave has a few threads on it that allow some adjustment to take up the slack if I remember correctly. At any rate, if the slave is moving correctly WITH the master, then you are bled correctly and the clutch engagement distance is somehow borked. It is also possible that your clutch fork is not positioned correctly on the fork-pivot, or the pivot itself is broken. This can happen, particularly with an upgraded clutch. Nismo has a hardened replacement.
If the slave is NOT moving with the master correctly and the clutch fork is in contact with the slave rod, then the problem is with the hydraulics. Bleeding can be a pain.
To do it correctly, you open the top on the master. Open the bleeder on the damper. Let it go till it runs free and clean. It will not flow fast, but let at least a few teaspoons flow through. If any bubbles appear or there is a pause in the flow, wait until it runs free without bubbles or pause for about one minute. Pushing the pedal is a last resort at this stage. Unly depress the pedal if the bleeder is ALREADY open. Do NOT put pedal pressure on the system then crack the bleeder. That is not a recommended way to bleed any hydraulic systems and all quality manufacturers will tell you that, whether it is brakes, clutch or industrial. Of course, before you let up on the pedal you must close the bleeder so you do not draw air back in.Once you have bled to the damper (preferably without having to use the pedal) crack the bleeder on the slave. Follow the same procedure. Let it free flow. One minute without air is a good number. Close bleeder. Do NOT push the pedal to the floor rapidly or more than once. You with either have pedal or not. Push slowly and let up slowly. If not, by going fast or pushing more than once, you are just aerating your fluid, which is a disaster. If you do not have pedal, try to bleed with free-dlow at the damper, then the slave again. You can use less fluid this time. If any air appears at the damper, you will have to let quite a bit flow at the slave since it means air is trapper between the two also. Try pedal slowly again. If not, try to bleed by cracking the bleeder at the damper and having a buddy push the pedal to the floor slowly (relatively, you don't have to be a granny here, just don't go all "Conan" on the pedal). BEFORE he lets up, close the bleeder. Do this twice. Do twice at the slave. If that doesn't fix it, pull your hair out, call me an idiot on these boards, curse humanity, then simply remove the damper.
BTW, keep an eye on the fluid level in the master reservoir. If you suck air, or even get a little to low, you just screwed the pooch and get to start from scratch. Happy days.
Good luch and let us know mate!