clutch gets 'sucked' to the floor????

[Marahutay]

Howdy yall.I recently had a spec stage2+ clutch package installed in my 1991 s13. I also had the master cylinder, slave cylinder, pilot, and throwout bearing all replaced also.at first it was great, but my grab point seemed unusually high for some reason, and then eventually my clutch started to slip due to the grab point being so high. so i looked up on here and saw to adjust the push rod, which i did. at first after i adjusted the pushrod the grab point was just below the mid point of the clutch pedal range, but as i kept driving it started getting closer and closer to the floor to the point where i couldnt even get it into gear. so i loosened it back up to what felt like was perfect and should work without problems. but then yesterday the pedal fell to the floor while driving completly out of the blue without warning. After I pooped myself a little, i pulled the pedal back up withy my foot while i was driving. and the clutch went back to normal for the rest of the day. BUTLater that night when i drove home everythinbg seemed normal and nothing was wrong whatsoever. untill i pulled into my driveway (thank god). i started pushin the clutch in and out wondering what the hell happened earlier and then the clutch just slowly fell to the floor. it gave no signs of fault or problems except for the one time it happened earlier that day.SOas of now, i pulled the pedal up wondering wtf and it stays up after i pull it up without touching it untill i push it back down. if i push the pedal back down right after pulling it up from the floor it will hold pressure enough to shift, but as soon as i push it back down that one time it comes back up about half way and then falls back to the floor untill i pull it back up again. Also, if i pull it up from the floor, like i said it stays pushed up the whole way, but if i press with my hand and push the pedal down like an inch, it does not slowly 'fall' to the floor, its more like it gets 'sucked' to the floor yet the clutch does not disengage

So, if i pull the pedal up from the floor and push it down really quick i get enough pressure that the clutch disengages and the pedal almost feels normal but only for that one push, if i pull the pedal up and slowly apply a small amount of pressure the pedal gets sucked to the floor, but if i pull the pedal up from ther floor and i do not touch it, it will stay the whole way up, and when the clutch pedal is on the floor from falling the clutch does not disengage.

seriously, wtf?

Modified by Marahutay at 1:52 PM 1/20/2010
Modified by Marahutay at 1:54 PM 1/20/2010

[bruinbear714]

There's probably air in the system, or fluid is not making it to the clutch pedal. Try having a friend press the clutch pedal while you look under the car to see if the fork moves.

[Marahutay]

the fork moves, but the one thing that seems is supposed to push it back to i guess its 'normal' position is not getting any pressure and i can move freely with my fingers. its the thing pushing on the side of the fork that is facing towards the front of the car seems as though it is faulty.....so i just need my system bled?

[rioredstang]

Have you been back to the shop that installed the kit? Could be throwout bearing has came off clutch fork. Take it to the installer and let them recheck this.

[Didderson]

If everything is new and functioning and there's no more dampener box in your way to possibly screw up more stuff, re bleed your system with a partner. If that fails then I'd say your clutch pivot bolt is broken off. Nismo sells a stronger one. It may have broken because you have a stage 2 (harder pressure plate).

[brokeded]

that bolt didnt break.............just bleed the clutch and then adjust the rod. this is quite common when you change any of the hydraulic components of the car

[Didderson]

Ah duh yes. He probably changed the master cylinder and didn't set pedal height.

[Marahutay]

if i can push in the little silver part on the slave cylinder with my fingers easily, could it be a faulty slave cylinder? cause its soft enough to do that. is the fork supposed to be pressed against the slave cylinder or is the slave cylinder supposed to be pushing against the fork assuming the clutch is engaged?

[brokeded]

well i always replace both ends of the clutch hydraulic system at the same time so i get it knocked out.......so yea either that or it needs to be bled

[Marahutay]

i said screw it after pushing like 3 quarts of hydr. fluid through the system and ended up taking it to nissan. they said it is probablly a faulty master cylinder, they bled the system again and got the pedal back to normal for a short drive but it loses pressure after a little while.

So is it safe to now assume that there is nothing wrong in my bell housing and it is only the hydraulic system that i need to worrie about? i am going to replace the master cylinder when i get it back from nissan cause they wanted like 300 some dollars for putting in a new master cylinder and install and i was like eff dat.

[sx moneypit]

I don't believe you have to worry about the pivot ball seeing that the car did good for a while. I have had the same kind of problems with some aftermarket clutch master cylinders on customers cars,that is why i always recommend original equipment parts.

[Marahutay]

so i went to pick the car up from nissan, prepared to have to turn my car off at every stop, dry shift, and start my car in gear. but.they bled the system (i guess they did it right, go figure) clean of air, and if i push my clutch pedal quickly, its normal and i cant even notice anything is wrong with it unless i just push it down slowly. i just occasionally have to pull it back up from the floor and then it goes back to normal.so, a slightly faulty mc? nissan was not willing to say that it 'is' a bad mc. just that 'we believe that it is a bad mc'i hate this.

[sx moneypit]

I'm with Nissan on that.When you push the pedal down slowly it sounds like the master cylinder is bypassing .

[brokeded]

gawd, 300 smacker for a damn mc!? ounds like a dealership

[PuNcHdRuNk]

my money is on the slave or master, go to the junk yard and pick one up on the cheapish. these are the only two resonable possiblities from the symptoms you described. dealerships will almost never tell you exactly what the problem is unless they can be 100% sure, that way if itturns out that the problem isnt their original diagnosis they can charge you more$

[dragon_d_85]

i had the same problem changed mc and sc took it to nissan to be bled and worked good for a couple of day then went to crap went back to nissan said mc was bad replaced it had nissan bled and set pedal then went bad again so i just took the dampiner out bled the system my self and haven't had any problems yet