clutch / flywheel install check list?

[jt15833]

alright, this will be the second time in 2 months installing a new clutch and flywheel and I want to make sure i get it dead on, because the only thing worse then doing something twice due to error is doing it three times i have a resurfaced CA flywheel and a centerforce dual friction clutch. here is the jist of what i plan on doing if you have any input at all, want to add more steps or modify current ones, please let it be known!

Flywheel install*Remove all flywheel pins (using KA24 clutch)*Place flywheel on crank (any alignment or doesn't matter which bolt holes line up to crank?)*Using red loc - tite on the bolts, thread in by hand and torque to 72-80 ft lbs, i was going to do 80 because i don't want them backing out, would there be a reason to torque more in the middle or lower on the 72-80 range?*Torque the bolts in a cross-hitch style holding the crank bolt to keep everything still

Clutch Install*Clean flywheel surface of all dirt and what not*Place clutch disc on flywheel and hold there with clutch alignment tool*Put pressure plate on top and hand thread in all 6 bolts*Torque to spec in a cross hitch pattern (loc - tite?)

transmission/clutch pedal*Apply a lithium grease to all the points noted in the fsm (i've got a white lithium greese thats more liquidy then jello-y, should I look for something else?*The part im confused about is adjusting the clutch pedal, i know how to turn the pushrod in and out but how do i know where is a good point?

I think that sums it up, but let me know if there is anything else i need to know/do for a successful clutch install.

[c-rad]

First off, you only remove ONE alignment pin. Not all of them.

Second, the flywheel has a small hole on it that lines up with a dowel on the crankshaft so it only goes on one way.

Third, 80 ft-lbs is fine.

And as for the pedal adjustment, you won't be able to figure that out til you have it all started up and then you adjust it where you like it to engage. Some people like it to engage close to the floor, others closer to the top. That part is all up to you.

[jt15833]

well 2 pins are out, and the third is almost out, so whats done is done. wouldn't 1 pin out throw off the balance?

[c-rad]

well 2 pins are out, and the third is almost out, so whats done is done. wouldn't 1 pin out throw off the balance?

No not really. The amount is so insignificant, and that is why you have a dampener on the other end of the crank

[NeedCAforS13]

no. leave it in there... it'll help you align the clutch with the holes. 1 pin weight is so minimal it won't make a difference.

Sean

[float_6969]

I've never done the KA-E clutch thing, but is the hole far enough off that removal of the pin is nessicary? Could you oval a hole out, or a drill a new hole?

[NeedCAforS13]

not even close. have to drill a new hole. Or use 2 of the 3 alignment pins.

[float_6969]

Just wondering. Thanks Sean.

[jt15833]

2/3 pins are out and the third is snapped in half with maybe 3mm left inside the flywheel, im going to drill a small hole in the pin to remove it. anyone see a downside to running with no pins at all? any other comments on other portions of my clutch install?

[jt15833]

first time i installed a KA clutch, the bolt holes didnt look like they lined up, but i threaded one bolt in a bit, then used a c clamp to pull the opposite site down almost touching the flywheel and did that bolt, and had to do the same for all 6 bolts.

first, is it normal that the pressure plate wont touch the flywheel around the edges with no bolts on and the clutch disc sandwhiched between?

second, is it normal to have to use a clamp to pull the pressure plate down so it moves in a little to be able to thread the bolts??

thanks

[float_6969]

You shouldn't have to use a clamp, but yes, it's normal that it won't touch.

[F3600]

yep its normal everything will compress when you gonna torque them out.

Here a picture of my pressure plate, look at the bolts holes. I needed to work them out to fit over every flywheel hole. I dont know if every KA24E clutch setup need thishttp://i.xanga.com/F3600/151-5148_IMG.JPG

[F3600]

to adjust the clutch pedal just turn the pushrod till there no freeplay.. so when you press the pedal there is *unneccesary pedal travel*

try some settings its a matter of choice..

[Rusted_PS13]

The KA24E and KA24DE clutch are the same right?

[jt15833]

clutch pedal adjustment is a matter of choice until its wrong, which is what i need to know.how do i know if say, i adjusted it too much and clutch isn't fully pressured on the flywheel when the pedal is all the way out. if i leave a mm or two of freeplay thatll ensure its fully pressed on with pedal out and pully off with pedal in, right? and i second the question is ka24de clutch same as ka24e

[float_6969]

If you're that concerned about the freeplay, look it up in the FSM it's laid out very plainly in there.

NO the KADE and KAE clutches aren't the same.

[jt15833]

umm is it bad to use ka24de clutch on ca flyhweel?

[Rusted_PS13]

So do we use the DE or E clutch? How about the flywheels?

[jt15833]

flywheel HAS to be ca18det unless you go sr flywheel, sr clutch and sr starter and then theres still issues. ive searched and pretty sure both ka-e and ka-de clutch works

[Hillkill]

Just get the CFDF clutch for an 86 nissan 200sx turbo (ca18et) That clutch fits with out the problem of the extra pin.

[f s t caz]

*Using red loc - tite on the bolts, thread in by hand and torque to 72-80 ft lbs, i was going to do 80 because i don't want them backing out, would there be a reason to torque more in the middle or lower on the 72-80 range?*Torque the bolts in a cross-hitch style holding the crank bolt to keep everything still

Clutch Install*Torque to spec in a cross hitch pattern (loc - tite?)

you ought to do those in stages. anytime you're tightening anything over 30-40lbs, its a good idea to go in stages. Torque all the bolts in a star patern at setting one (say 35lbs). Then, once all bolts have been torqued to the same setting, tighten them again (normally i go to the lowest spec either the 1st or the 2nd time, depending on the spec). Lastly, if you want to make sure they stay on, torque them to either mid range torque spec or the maximum torque spec.

I've never used loctite on any bolts on my engine and i've never had an issue with them backing out.