clutch engagement (yes i know its asked a lot) searched tho

[LakaiOrDie]

ok, plain and simple when my car started to SUDDENLY get warmed up the pedal got soft, once the thing stuck to the floor at a high rpm, but as i thought it was s*** brake fluid and tried flushing it with dot 4 i lost my feeling 0of a good clutch

it had been set up nivce since i changed the clutch (and tob sleeve, etc everything)
there was a couple threads of the pushrod sticking out at me from under the dash and the ascd bolt was right out of the car i believe.
\how the f*** do you get this clutch to grab quite close to the floor, because
if my adjkustment rod is ANY LESSS than FULLY threaded into the master cylinder with no threads sticking up, my clutch is soft s*** and then if its out all the way it actually hold the presssure and gets stiff while driving and then engagement is up at the top of the pedal.

i changed the slave brand new oem lately and f*** i bled it a LLOOOOTTTTT
also rebuilt MC and i only have the option to get a brand new cylinder (depending on the advice im given here,maybe i dont need one?) and then i thought maybe loosen the pushrod and then bleed from the setting that leaves the pushrod sticking threads out at me
would that be the answeer there^ as far i know the best way to bleed was always with the pedal to have maximum travel but its just not gonna hold pressure unless its extenmded fuilly

please help and im sorry for punctuation, im on the phone at work and need to get the f*** thing working so i dont eat any more brake fluid

[daemonyk]

The stock clutch setup on the 240 has a clutch dampener box nonsense thats supposed to soften the clutch feel. Its the last set of hardline stuff under the car, right before the rubber line to the slave. It makes it a nightmare to bleed. I've heard there are ways to bypass / remove it. Also you can buy a one piece line that goes straight from the MC to SC - supposed to be way easier to bleed, like $40-$80.

Regardless, willing to wager it's an air-in-the-lines issue, and just needs to be bled more Good luck

[LakaiOrDie]

Hey thanks for the quick reply. chase Bays line bypassed the damped when my engine was out (might be cause) the line does not show signs of a leak but it is a not guaranteed I guess.. one thing also I'd like to add is that I doubt anyone can confirm this but when I rebuilt master I changed the whole assembly besides the housing and the piston that went in has been used (and returned to nissan) and I just today found this little spring on the bench I was working at.

anyway, so have you ever had the piston in your hand before and noticed the little brass valve that is on the end with a cap on it containing the valve by the seal end? I wonder if the spring goes on the valve it isn't my favourite thing to do to stick my hands in brake fluid but I wanted to tear it down again and try. there's just gotta be something up with that valve it's not holding pressure at all unless it's got nowhere to go in there and when I'm driving around lately it's grabbing hella good and very much loving the performance but not the friction oount
I'm tired so Idk if there's any thing i made sound confusing but I just cannot stop once I've started troubleshooting a issue like this with my car ;(