clutch cylinder problems

[normaspirated]

So I changed my master and slave cylinders three weeks ago. Last week, I noticed the clutch pedal started to gradually feel hard as if I had an aftermarket clutch...which I don't. Anyway, it got to the point where after I put the shifter in gear, release the clutch and press the gas, it would be slipping like HELL. I had to park the car in a parking lot because I wouldn't be able to keep up with traffic. I called my friend and told him to bring some tools. When he got to where I was, I used his 8mm wrench and loosened the bleeder on the slave cylinder. After I tightened it, everything was fine and the clutch, at first, gripped really good and fast because of the soft clutch pedal feeling. Of course, over time it would harden slowly. Well, yesterday, the clutch pedal got REALLY hard once again and I bled the slave cylinder...again. Clutch pedal feel is fine again, but I don't want to keep doing this every week. Is there something I'm doing wrong when I'm bleeding the slave cylinder? Is someone supposed to hold the clutch pedal down after I tighten the bleeder? Help! I've got a '91 240sx SE if that helps...which it probably won't.

[yellow_jacket]

Here is the order for bleeding the slave:

1) push down and hold down clutch pedal.2) open bleeder(clutch stilldown from 1)3) close bleeder(clutch still down from 1)4) let clutch pedal come up and repeat as neccesary.

[normaspirated]

Here is the order for bleeding the slave:

1) push down and hold down clutch pedal.2) open bleeder(clutch stilldown from 1)3) close bleeder(clutch still down from 1)4) let clutch pedal come up and repeat as neccesary.

So after step 4, do I have to pump the clutch? When you say "repeat as necessary", is that saying "repeat IF necessary" or when would I have to stop doing this process? Sorry for all these questions. Thanks in advance, though.

[yellow_jacket]

You can pump it once or twice. Just keep bleeding it until you get a nice firm pedal on the first pump every time or pretty close to it.

[jmauld]

You should put a clear hose on the bleed port and stick that into a little cup. Repeat the steps above until you no longer see air bubbles coming out.

[blackbeauty240]

you might have a defective slave cylinder

[Holisticbeatz]

Check this link out. Clutch

[normaspirated]

Everything's back to normal now thanks to yellow jacket's method! Now I'm just waiting for the ca18det to arrive

[blackbeauty240]

good diag yellowjacket

[normaspirated]

Update:

*sigh* Pedal got hard again. Actually, it gets hard and then back to soft. I've done some searching and I've heard that you can bleed the clutch dampener "box". That box where the master cylinder line goes to first before it goes to the slave cylinder. Another thing I've found is that people just bypass the "box" and just direct the lines to the slave cylinder. Can someone explain to me how to bypass the "box"? Is there a nipple bleeder on the box itself? Thanks in advance again

[WorkinDriver]

dude mine does the same sh## I think its the master cyl, in the cyl, it has a pressuer relief the fluid isnt getting back to the master, I'm working on it this weekend I'll keep you in formed e-mail me if you have questions or if you fixed it let me know what you did. Mine does in 1 day, I wish it was every week. Oh, I bled the sys twice, and switched to a thiner fluid. It still aint workin. [email protected]

[turboweege]

i have this same prob. i rebuilt the master, rplaced the slave and bled bled bled using different techniques all to no avail. i removed the damper box and i plan on trying the hose tommorrow and thats the last straw. if that doesnt work im replacing the the entire master and replacing the whole line with stainless steel. please let me know if wither of you figure out the prob or if anyone else might have any ideas. thanks. luigi

[turboweege]

anyone got a clue?

[Nismo_Freak]

I'd say the problem lies in the master cylinder... it might have a slow leak.

[turboweege]

weve all changed our masters and slaves.i bought a ss line which should be in tomorrow and i got all new line leading up to the stock hose location which i plan on bending down rather than up and running against the firewall above the transmission gradually going down then over to the rubber line. this way it should prevent any trapping of air anywhere in the line, which ive heard can be a pain unless you have a force feed brake fluid feeder to "blow" through the line. im doing this tomorrow and ill probabaly post wednesday because the problem usually isnt noticed for like a day or so.luigi

[Nismo_Freak]

Ah ok sounds good

[PapaSmurf2k3]

I had the exact same problem on my 91. in fact, i think i made a couple threads on it already. Anyway, I did the clutch bypass mod, and it seems to have fixed it. its been about 2 weeks and ive had no problems as of yet. Whereas bleeding with the box, the clutch would have to be pumped like 4 times to get to normal pressure, with the line you dont have to pump it at all, its already at normal pressure. pretty cool mod. definately worth the $45 to avoid all those headaches.

[s13sr20chris]

common prob(air in 240 clutch lines). at the shop we jack up the front end and bleed it. then let sit over night with cap off the master. bleed again in the morning(still front end in the air). all said and done, check the pedal adjustment and go.

[Nismo_Freak]

Yeah, 240's do seem to get alot of air in the lines, as well as moisture.

[nab911]

I just talked to a guy who is getting me custom made lines for 27 bucks that bypass the box and im about to go cake liquid gasket on all my valves because fluid is leaking somwhere from when i changed the master cyl and bent a valve.

[turboweege]

it seems better now that i have replaced the metal line from the master to the hose with no box, replaced the hose, the master and slaves and put in a new copper washer at the slave and rebled it. it is stiffer than when i first bled it two days ago now but it doesnt go soft. i may bleed it again since it seems really stifff and let it sit overnight like chris has suggested.luigi