clutch bleeding

[donmada]

how do i bleed the clutch on my 91 s13 sr20det just did the swap and the clutch keeps dropping to the floor i know it needs to be bleed how do i go through this process

[rotorimp]

Bleed it just like brakes. Get in there and grab it with your hand and pump it a few times--hold it onthe floor and get someone to let the air out. Do this a few times and it will work.

[donmada]

do i bleed it at the slave cylinder or at the box

[90SRpwrd240]

Right on the slave cylinder. Just like rotorimp said, exactly like bleeding the brakes.

[bone_stock_240]

You have to bleed at the slave and the damper box unfortunately. It takes forever if you leave the damper in. The easiest thing to do is disconnect the hardline from the damper loop and bend it around to meet the rubber hose that goes to the slave. I completely drained the lines and put in a new master and slave and it still only took me about 5 minutes to get all the air out.

[Wave Runner]

New master and new slave here. I've been bleeding air all day. Not getting any air but will not pump of either. Is it all in the damper? Also, How do you get to the bleeder on the bottom of the master with it in place. I don't seem to be able to get on this bleeder even with a flex screwdriver. Help!!!!

[Wave Runner]

I am having a very difficult time bleeding the clutch hydraulic lines. I was getting air out at the slave. Not getting air but after bleeding for 5 hours I still do not have clutch or pressure enough to open the clutch would be better way to say it.

doug

[plane16j]

if your clutch fluid is darkning in color might wana change your master cylinder.....

[LayNLow240]

@ Wave Runner and Don: take your damper box off. im sure theres tons of air in that thing, its hard as balls to bleed it with the damper still in.i replaced my slave a while back, and had the same problem. so i took the damper off the got it bled in 5 mins.search nico for the writeup on how to do it.@Don, its exactly the same process as the brakes. take your damper box off and it will be alot easier.

[90SRpwrd240]

It's MUCH easier to bleed without the damper box. I think you pretty much just have to take the box out, and bend the hard line to meet the rubber line. Correct?

[Wave Runner]

Thanks guys,

I was wondering what that damper was there for anyway as other cars I've had do not have that damper in the loop.

[donmada]

thanx

[mrzabala]

heres pictures to help you along but its pretty straigh foward:http://darkrume.com/index.php?...=4158

heres a step by step:Credit to http://www.nostreetracing.org/...?a=11:

What You Will Need

* Jack & Jack stands * 14mm Open-end Wrench * 10mm Flared Open-end Wrench (note this is a MUST) * 12mm Socket or Wrench * Something to let fluid drip into (old pan or bowl) * Recommend some old/shop rags or towels

I will start with the bypassing of the clutch dampener box, as it is easier to do this mod before installing the stainless line since you will already have all the hardlines undone and ready to connect to the stainless line.

A Few Notes & Reasons for this mod

1. About the Dampener * The clutch dampener box is supposed to cushion the clutch pedal. * It works like a surge tank with a loop-back system to relieve clutch pedal pressure. * It is there to piss you off while bleeding the clutch. 2. The "Why?" * The purpose of this mod is to take the play out of the hydraulic clutch on the S13. * Removing the dampener block makes it much easier to bleed the clutch along with a more "sportier" feel. It also lets the clutch engage at a higher point (in most cases). * When you install a heavy aftermarket clutch, sometimes the hydraulic system struggles to handle the added pressure when you depress the clutch pedal. This is evident when the clutch has been fully bled but still doesn't want to disengage all the way. * For some this mod is done purely because they like the stiff, live feeling of the pedal afterwards. You have a closer connection with what your clutch is doing. 3. Precautions * I must warn you, before doing this, that you could seriously screw your clutch system up if you do this wrong. * If you don't have access to replacement hard lines, you may want to reconsider bending yours until you do. * As always when playing with brake fluid, be sure not to drink it or get it in your eyes... and keep it off your paint! (It eats paint really quickly.) Brake fluid washes out with water.

Installation (*Note* Some pics and info credited to ZERO YŌN)

Start by jacking up the front of the car, and supporting each side with jack stands.

This is what the factory system looks like:

A closer look:

Using the 10mm Flared wrench, disconnect all of the hard lines.

After removal of the short line, take the long line and carefully bend it by hand. Be sure not kink it (You can use a tube bending tool if you have one, but its not necessary. You should be fine as long as you're careful when bending by hand). You will be turning it around and pointing it into the slave cylinder connection directly.

Now go ahead and remove the loop back and blocks. (12mm bolts holding them to the chassis)

At this point you have two options:

1. If you have a Stainless line, skip the next step, and continue through the rest of the the article for instructions on connecting the line. 2. If you do not have a stainless line: Screw the bended hard line into the factory rubber tubing:

Fill the master cylinder with brake fluid and bleed the clutch line (bleed valve on the slave cylinder). You will find bleeding this system takes only a few minutes, instead of all day like the stock system. Be sure to clean up the mess, and you're done!

Now for the installation of the stainless line. This is really simple compared to removing the dampener box.

A Few Notes & Reasons for this mod

1. About stainless lines * Most stainless lines are the same. * The K2RD line is a copy of the Earl's, while the Earl's is a copy of the Nismo... they all do the same thing. * You can spend $100 on Nismo lines or $20 on SPL lines, they're the same thing. It's up to you if you want to spend the extra money. 2. Factory vs. Stainless * The stock rubber line can swell letting the clutch not engage fully, so a stainless line fixes that permenantly. * Sometimes the factory line is so old, it won't hold the pressure, and the car will creep forward even if you have your foot on the clutch pedal. It may also happen after some spirited driving, due to heat. * A stainless line will usually give a stiffer clutch pedal feel.

Installation

On the end of the factory line which connects to the hard line, remove the clip that holds it into place.

Pull the line out of the metal lip that was holding it.Using the 14mm wrench, disconnect the factory line from the slave cylinder.

Now screw in your stainless line in its place. Put the other end back into the lip.

Replace the clip that held the factory rubber line.

Now screw the hardline into the stainless line.This is what the finished product should look like:

Finish up by filling the master cylinder with brake fluid and bleeding the clutch line. Clean up the mess and you're done. You should notice a stiffer clutch pedal feel than before.

[donmada]

man it worked to easy when i disconnected the damped box like it was instant just gotta be careful when bending that line back around to the slave

[donmada]

thanx worked awesome

[bone_stock_240]

Sweet, glad it worked out for you. Yeah, it took me a while to bend the hardline around mostly because I was trying to be careful not to kink it.

[mrzabala]

Sweet, glad it worked out for you. Yeah, it took me a while to bend the hardline around mostly because I was trying to be careful not to kink it.

Lol. Taking the credit...

[donmada]

thanx man

[bone_stock_240]

Lol. Taking the credit...

Damn right! it was me, all me, all the time. My mom says I am wicked useful.