Clunk noise when i brake hard and turn full lock

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Maikool
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Car: 93 Nissan 180sx 95 TypeX SR20DET engine

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car: 94 Nissan 180sx SR20det

when i brake hard i get a big clunk sound which is pretty loud.. and also when i go full lock sometimes i get a clunk sound.. it cant be the tie rods coz i just changed them.

its like not a repetitive clunk noise.. more like when someone brakes infront of me, then i brake suddenly and a big clunk sound happens

and the steering one only happens when i hit full lock, doesnt clunk when i drive full lock.

(i dont know exactly where it sounds, but its 'NOT' in the rear)

anyone know what it can be? (every detail please)



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1sikS13
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Car: 1992 S13 240sx

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its your ball joints. jack the car up up off the ground and put your hand on the top and bottom of the wheel. try and wiggle it. If it moves in and out look at the ball joint when you do it. If theres play. replace it

zenkistic
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Car: 96 240 SE

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simple things first; is your battery tied ? my battery is just sitting there and I get a big clunk sometimes when I brake hard.

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zachattack_5491
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I'm having that exact same problem. I most often hear it when I'm backing out of the driveway, then I brake and turn at the same time to get into the street. I have fairly new ball joints, but my tension rod bushings are destroyed. I can twist my tension rods with very little force. Do you have stock bushings/tension rods?

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E7-S14
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Its most likely the "Phantom Clunk" that us 240s suffer from.its your Tie-Rod Ends.. the ball-joint is shot.

good way to test. jack up your car, if you can twist/turn the tie-rod end freely, then its shot.. you shouldn't be able to turn it. it should be very hard to turn/twist.

check that and post back up your results.

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Legion76
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I had a problem like this. It was a clunking on the front passenger side that started when I braked and turned hard. I had new ball joints and tie rod ends at the time and Megan tension rods and everything was tight. It eventually got to where it would do it on bumps in the road. My problem ended up being the strut mount going bad.

Feadz
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Car: 91 240sx KA-T, 09 G37x
Location: Youngstown, Ohio

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I get the same noise, almost like a metallic clunking noise from the front end when braking hard or backing up with my wheel turned sharp. I replaced the ball joints and tie rod ends and the noise still continues. I'm going to put it on a lift thursday and check it out again. I might just buy the master bushing kit to see if it helps.

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Maikool
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Car: 93 Nissan 180sx 95 TypeX SR20DET engine

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Feadz wrote:I get the same noise, almost like a metallic clunking noise from the front end when braking hard or backing up with my wheel turned sharp.
thats like exactly whats happening to me! god damn, i want this fixed so bad....... will it affect going over MVR pits? as in, when i do the brake test?

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Maikool
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Car: 93 Nissan 180sx 95 TypeX SR20DET engine

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E7-S14 wrote:Its most likely the "Phantom Clunk" that us 240s suffer from.its your Tie-Rod Ends.. the ball-joint is shot.

good way to test. jack up your car, if you can twist/turn the tie-rod end freely, then its shot.. you shouldn't be able to turn it. it should be very hard to turn/twist.

check that and post back up your results.
had a mechanic look at my tie rods, said they were fine.

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comatoseculture
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Car: 1990 240SX coupe. Currently running on Megasquirt.

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Make sure your calilpers aren't loose/missing one of the two mounting bolts. Just an idea, and it's def. happened before.

The other much more serious possiblity is either a lose bolt where the control arm meets the subframe, or as is the case of two I've owned/both with front end damage that was off the insurance records, the bolt hole on the subframe actually notched to a tear drop shape. Full lock made noise (mainly while sliding) as well as very hard braking getting the steering wheel to actually turn/counter steer as i was braking.

These are just suggestions that I've personally had happen, however it bears mention that the symptom doesn't match 100%. In other words I am only trying to help.

edit: Are the tie rods new or not? inner and outer? Did the mechanic check the ball joints?

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zachattack_5491
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Actually now that I think about it, my noise started happening right after I installed my tie rods and tie rod ends. They're circuit sports.

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asoomal
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Car: 2001 Subaru Impreza L 5MT (Daily)
1992 Nissan 240SX SE 5MT w/HICAS (Being restored)
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Mine made that noise, turns out it was this:




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comatoseculture
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see this? I don't have before photos, and I'd have to take some of the repair we did, but it sure seems to me that front subframe damage is somewhat prevailant with these cars. Give it a very close inspection. Make sure to get the weight off the wheels/tires and shake em around up n down/left and right as hard as you can. It shouldn't pivot on an axis at all. should stay put. Hope this helps...

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Maikool
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Car: 93 Nissan 180sx 95 TypeX SR20DET engine

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asoomal wrote:Mine made that noise, turns out it was this:


if it is this, thank god i got a spare rolling 180sx shell with all goodies in it

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Dazzla
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I get a weird clunk, when I start moving the car...I think thats my subframe bushings though lol

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E7-S14
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hmm. well, others posted some good ideas that could be your problem.check your struts, upper mount could be loose, check for ANY LOOSE PARTS.

could also be your rear subframe, may seem like its not coming from rear, or even front subframe, make sure everything is BOLTED DOWN and tight.

check your motor mounts also. and your transmission mounts.

Hell i guess check every moving part in the front half of the car.

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Maikool
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Car: 93 Nissan 180sx 95 TypeX SR20DET engine

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this is the only problem i saw when i was under there, and the rubber on one of the rod joints (passenger side) are all greasey and torn.

TheBlaiant
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I have a clunk too.Turns out to be my FLCA bushing was busted.Check those too.

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comatoseculture
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Car: 1990 240SX coupe. Currently running on Megasquirt.

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IPhone is good for double posts on accident...

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comatoseculture
Posts: 196
Joined: Sun Oct 19, 2008 6:19 am
Car: 1990 240SX coupe. Currently running on Megasquirt.

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You can just bend that lip away from your tension rod. However I'm thinking if that got bent that bad, more damage may be hidden. I don't have my car to point out where to check, but I may be able to do so later in the week.

AND if a ball joint or whatever is popped and leaking grease it should be replaced.

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Legion76
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If it's broken and leaking, get some aftermarket tension rods. This seems to be a common problem with 240s. Both of mine were bad and the car shifted weight too much during braking and acceleration. Adjustable aftermarket ones will fix that problem and also give you caster adjustment. Don't know if that will fix the thumping noise cause mine didn't thump when they were bad, but it did improve the ride. Replacing the struts and mounts fixed my thumping noise.


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