Cluch Problems Continue

[sx_coupe]

I've posted this before but now more stuff happened... so lets recap.

My 240SX coupe had a failing clutch, i wasnt sure what the problem at first was... When it was hot outside or after longer rides (when the car warmed up) the clutch clamped higher than usual (when the pedal was almost fully released) and the power transfer wasnt very strong (eventually if hot enough, would start slipping, badly) . So I got new master and slave cylinder and that didnt solve my problem, so i contacted 2 shops around here, and both said it's my pressure plate, get a new clutch kit. That I did, at a respected shop I got a Clutch Masters Stage 1 clutch kit installed, i got it back today, for the first 2 miles or so it rode nice, clamped at the point where it should. Then about 8 miles into the ride the same thing as before happened. The Clutch started clamping much later, close to where the clutch was totally released, and once again the power transfer was nothing close to where it was at the beginning of the ride. I'm running out of ideas here, if anyone can help, please do, I've spent $600 now trying to fix this problem and it still exists, somebody help.

[Scott McLellan]

Did they resurface the flywheel at the shop when they replaced your clutch. It kinda sounds like they didn't. Also, you are taking it easy on your clutch at first aren't you. My Spec Stage 1 clutch had a reccomended break in time of 1000 miles. That means no aggressive clutching/driving, no excessive slipping of the clutch, ect. Not following this procedure will glaze your clutch over in no time leaving no choice but to replace the clutch disc and pressure plate.

[sx_coupe]

They didnt resurface the flywheel because they said it was in good shape, and yes i know about the break in period and i didnt go above 2500rpm today, and i accelerated like a grandma. But would the flywheel affect the change in clutch clamping?

[Scott McLellan]

Yes, for sure if there is heat damage usually called blue spots that might appear as very small surface cracks. In your case where the clutch has been slipping because you say it is not transfering power, I would bet that enough heat built up to create this condition. Again, the only fix is to resurface the flywheel and buy a new clutch disc and pressure plate. For every clutch change it is usually considered mandatory for a flywheel resurface. If the shop is to lazy to take off the flywheel and do it right, which actually is a job as I did and the 6 flywheel to crank bolts are nonreusable (I broke one at 30 ft/lbs. when they are supposed to be torqued to 112 ft/lbs. so didn't try the others) and cost me $46 from Nissan, tell them to at least rough up the surface with some 150 grit aluminum oxide sandpaper. If this step is skipped, glazed clutch. Only other thing I can think of is if maybe the crank rear main seal or some other oil source, which can even be from greasy handed mechanics, is on that clutch. During all assembly it is very important to keep things very clean using brake cleaner. Of course they wouldn't admit making a mistake like that. Make sure they bleed the clutch lines too. Make sure you have a trusted shop doing your work. Good Luck!

[thundachiken]

I think I know what your problem is. Had the same exact problem as you. Originally bought my coupe with a new clutch installed by the car dealer. About 1 week later, started slipping badly. Took her into a transmission shop & they told me it was a bad pressure plate. Had a new clutch assembly installed, & started slipping about 30 miles later!

I took it back in & they made a small adjustment under the dash- An adjustment rod on the clutch pedal. Never had any more slippage but now think they took me for a new clutch.

Definately a learning experience.

KevinB