Clinching/staking aftermarket inner tie rods on S13.

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slipnfall
Posts: 1819
Joined: Mon Jan 13, 2003 9:43 am
Car: '06 D40

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1992 Nissan 240sx, non-HICAS power steering, aftermarket inner tie rods, clinch, stake.

Just a couple quick question, as I've never had to replace inner tie rods before. The factory ones I pulled off had four staked sides, and a 'washer' that was clinched in two places corresponding to two grooves in the rack. That's fine, I understand how that helps keep the outer rod from spinning.

However on the aftermarket versions I've seen at all the local auto-part stores, it's like a flat washer, with two 'spikes' where the clinches would go. Below is a link to an example, and attaches is the factory version. How is the aftermarket version supposed to keep it from rotating?? Am I supposed to hammer the edges of the washer over the four sides of the tie rod?

Also is the Red LocTite too much for those inner threads, or something more suttle like the Blue LocTite?(removable w/hand tools, as opposed to heat).

Lastly, should there be *any* sign of P/S fluid on the inside of the boots? One 'rib' of the boot had a tiny puddle, but I don't know if it was from me messing with it, or the curb I hit. I'm afraid when I replace the boot(preventative maint, they aren't torn yet), I may not see immediate signs of fluid loss.

Thanks for reading,Jamie

Aftermarket:

Oem:


s13sr20chris
Posts: 4148
Joined: Tue Jun 10, 2003 9:32 am
Car: '89 Nissan S13 w/redtop running 13psi and not leaking fuel anymore
Contact:

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blue locktite is perfect.

if the new washer will bend easily into place then bend it. if not, use the stock washer.

if neither option works just use the blue locktite alone. many nissans dont have locktite or the washer to keep them on and they are ok.

a little p/s fluid is ok. seals get old and seep. seepage is ok. major leaks are not ok.

slipnfall
Posts: 1819
Joined: Mon Jan 13, 2003 9:43 am
Car: '06 D40

Post

Cool, thanks for the response. Unfortunately, I really boogered up the tabs on the original lock rings when removing them. Also the two clinches wouldn't be repeatable, since material was actually removed from the ring in those areas.

I'm a bit of an OEM-purist, but I just couldn't see spending $42/ea for OE units. BTW the joints on these new ones are stuck solid: I can't move/rotate them by hand. I assume the p/s rack will free them up, and once they get some miles on them, will loosen even more.

Regards,Jamie


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