Clang type noise coming from the front shocks at low speeds

[bigdog76]

I have had this noise going on for years now.I'm pretty sure it has something to do with the tie rod ends. Not sure which ones?

I looked under the car and the bushings are shot out big time.

I have about 217,000 miles on the car now. They are probley original is my guess.

What is the worse case scenario if I just leave it. I have a family now and I drive a lot more then I use to. Iam worried the tire is going to come off or something. The alignment is fine drives straight. The tires wear just fine.I was thinking about leaving it since I was planning on buying another car begininning of next year.

What is my options. I remember pricing the parts out 2 years ago and it was around $200 or so. Are they easy to do myself? If I do it I will just replace it I dont want to just replace the bushings and all that mess.

Please help me out!!!

[paranoidjack]

Take a few pictures and post them up for us to see and verify you are talking about the tie rod end.

[maxnix]

What is the worse case scenario if I just leave it.

A fatal crash with your family in the car?

Jeez, fix that now before you drive it again.

[qship96]

A fatal crash with your family in the car?

Jeez, fix that now before you drive it again.

Naah, just keep playing Carrie Underwoods "jesus take the wheel", you`ll be in good hands!

[Haitian_King]

Naah, just keep playing Carrie Underwoods "jesus take the wheel", you`ll be in good hands!

A Carrie Underwood reference?

[qship96]

good lookin broad

[oldmako]

If it's simply the tie rod ends, they are cheap and DIY. An hour getting grubby and a few frosty-pops and you're done. You'll need an alighnment afterward...well, your car will need one. Your blood sucking chiropractor will probably recommend one for you as well. Methinks the TR ends are not responsible for your noise. They may be shot all to hell, but they're quiet.

If however, your 217K car is still tooling around on it's original Tokyo bits, then you have several more, big fat, stinking fish to fry. You'll need a big expensive pot full of very expensive grease to get the job done. If the noise "has been going on for years now" chances are that it's been somewhat...uh...neglected. These cars are needy, finicky bishez, and don't do well without a fair amount of stroking.

Any idea on the front ends history? There isn't much up there that lasts that long without rehab. I myself can only go for so long without rehab, but that's another thread.


Modified by oldmako at 8:04 PM 4/29/2008

[bigdog76]

Well I have to tell you I have been a part of this forum for sometime.I have to knock on wood I have not had major issue to contend to in a long time at least a good year that explains my absence from the forum. The transmission was rebuilt and the radiator was changed thats all the last 1 1/2 years or so.

Sounds like we have a lot of jokers on here now.

None the less as long as the old players are still on here there is good advise.

As far as I know it is the tension rods or bushings that is what I have always been told. What else would cause this noise and am I in serious danger if I dont change them?

[96Qowner]

Hiyas, bigdog - good to see you again.

As you know, you're probably not going to find any of the regulars who are going to recommend that you do anything but fix that stuff.

A "clang" sound that's been going on for "years now". Tsk, tsk. I'm trying to place the sound. Clang implies a ringing sort of sound - something vibrates. Clank would just be metal smacking against itself, and would make more sense. How's the steering feel? Is it all sloppy and hesitant? Does this sound always occur over a bump, or does steering have something to do with it?

[qship96]

check tie rods, lower control arm bushings and balljoint, upper arms,swaybar bushings and endlinks, finally shock mount hardware.

[bigdog76]

Steering is good it does it over bumps mainly. The suspension was replaced 2 years ago with Tokico Blues. I didnt know they had Tokico Black that is more like the OEM feel If I knew that I would have went that route. The blues are alittle stiffBut I am use to them now. Im sure it is the tension rods and all the other stuff that was mentioned above this post. since I looked at it once and it looks shot out.

Realistically how much can I replace myself? I was going to replace the whole tension rod since I dont have the tools to push the bushings in. Do I need a torque wrench? I I have is a sock set can I break theses nuts free. I was thinking of starting with the tension rods. What is the worse case scenario if I dont replace? I dont want to dump alot of money since I am buying another car next year I will hang on to the Q but only drive it on weekends mainly.

[96Qowner]

I'm betting what you're hearing is the upper arms. They're probably shot to hell - usually good for 60,000 miles or less.

Under $250/pr from Joe, easy to do yourself.

[szh]

I'm betting what you're hearing is the upper arms. They're probably shot to hell - usually good for 60,000 miles or less.

Probably less ... I used to change mine every 30k miles.

Z

[bigdog76]

$250 for both sides or one side? What do theses look like?

the factory service manual shows it as the tension rods. there is two bolts on one end connected to the wheel axle and the other end has the bushing that is all shot out?

[qship96]

I would do tension rods{115 each ] and upperlinks{101 each} joes prices, if they have not been done in awhile.

May not cure the noise, but a good place to start suspension rehab anyways- if noise is still present look at third links and lower conrtol arms-if noise is still not cured.......

Finally shock mounting hardware should all be replaced the next time you replace shocks{not worth replacing hardware unless you are replacing the shocks, as labor will kill you}

[maxnix]

I was going to replace the whole tension rod since I dont have the tools to push the bushings in. Do I need a torque wrench?

Bushings can be pressed in (arrow forward) by any machine shop.

A torque wrench is good for achieving the 100 ft. lbs. required by upper link bolts.

Don't final torque the tension rods until the suspension is loaded.