I used to shoot for 3k on my changes, although I've started to slide to 4-5k lately. There's some studies out there that have shown that freshly changed oil is less helpful to your car than the existing used oil. I don't have the link handy right now, but "Bob is the Oil Guy" is a great place to start. The point of the article was to point out that more frequent oil changes were perhaps more detrimental than extended change intervals...of course given that the old oil in the car is still in good shape. The myth that "dark oil is dirty, therefore it isn't lubricating as well" also persists...but it isn't necessarily the case.matt_a wrote:I personally still get my oil changed every 3,000 miles and I have it done with a synthetic blend. Why? Because of a few reasons:
-That magic number of 3,000 has been burned in to my brain from the time I was a kid.
-It's an easy interval to remember.
-It's a fairly cheap insurance policy.
Changing the oil regularly is the number-one most important thing you can do for your engine. If I'm going to error, it's going to be on the side of caution.
YEP! I agree.nsrZ32 wrote:I'd highly recommend the Mobil 1 Synthetic
Doing your own oil changes, or having them done someplace other than the dealership WILL NOT void your warranty.lain wrote:I don't mean to change the purpose of this thred but do you think if I changed my own oil it could void the warrenty?
And back to what oil I do suggest Mobil1 Synthetic.
Thank you for the link, I had not seen this one but have seen others that are very similar. I worked in the automotive industry for an OEM for many years and I can tell you that whenever we had serious problems with heat or noise in engines, transmission's and diff's we automatically went to high quality synthetic oils and lubricants, I am going back 20 -25 years way before the word synthetic became used out in the open market. I for one was converted many many years ago through that experience and personnally would not use anything else.Rockhound wrote:Here's a good site that compiles viscosities and other measurements (flash point, pour point, % ash, % zinc) for most popular oils, if anyone's interested. Of course, the problem is determining what constitutes a "good" measurement. For instance, the flash point is the temperature at which the oil begins to give off flame-ignitable vapors.
http://www.micapeak.com/info/oiled.html
So Castrol GTX 10W30 has a flash point of 415°F whereas Mobil 1 10W30 has a flash point of 450°F. Obviously, the lower the flash point, the "easier" the oil will vaporize and possibly burn off. The article states that 400°F is the minimum to prevent high consumption. So is 415°F enough? Probably depends upon a bevy of factors, like driving habits, the engine it's used in, and ambient conditions.
So it's an interesting compilation of oil variables, but it still doesn't explicitly state which oil is "better", because that's a far more complicated "answer". Also note that the study is outdated and many oils may have reformulated since it was put together.
Synthetic oil doesn't actually reach it's full lubricating potential until 1000k or so (yes, that's a canuck measurement). I wish I could remember where that source came from...I will check.Rockhound wrote: ...The point of the article was to point out that more frequent oil changes were perhaps more detrimental than extended change intervals...of course given that the old oil in the car is still in good shape...