Choice of Engine Oil

General Discussion forum for Versa Owners
wippy
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Joined: Thu Jul 26, 2007 10:46 am
Car: 2007 Nissan Versa SL hatchback

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Since the car is new I can set a new standard for myself with the motor oil, so I'm interested in the group's opinions. (1) is 5000 miles the accepted benchmark for changing the oil, or do most folks still go with 3000-3500; and (2) what are the opinions about using nothing but synthetic oil like Mobil 1 for the life of the car?

Thanks in advance!


MIdnkight-lude
Posts: 259
Joined: Sun Apr 18, 2004 8:53 am

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I would use the search function. we had a long discussion about Oil, a few months back, so there will be extensive information there.

But for me, if i am using synthetic, i am going close to 5k-7k before oil change. i am currently testing out using a long lasting oil from Mobile 1, and currently i am only at 4k, so time to check that oil quality soon.

matt_a
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In reality, even regular motor oil doesn't need to be changed as frequently as most people change it. The golden rule of "every 3,000 miles" goes way back to when oils weren't as good as they are now and neither were the engines they were poured in to. Synthetic blends and full sythetic oils are even better. In most cases, they are overkill. I personally still get my oil changed every 3,000 miles and I have it done with a synthetic blend. Why? Because of a few reasons:

-That magic number of 3,000 has been burned in to my brain from the time I was a kid.

-It's an easy interval to remember.

-It's a fairly cheap insurance policy.

Changing the oil regularly is the number-one most important thing you can do for your engine. If I'm going to error, it's going to be on the side of caution.

alonsorules8
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Being a former tech. you should change your dino oil every 3k if using syn. oils between5k and 7500 miles is normal. Just don't do what a former customer of mine did and go 31k miles and never change the oil. let just say that the pistons and connecting rods were not were they were suppose to be and 2 pistons were missing thrown through the block.

07blueversa
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You should use royal purple pure synthetic oil. Its GOOD stuff.

Rockhound
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matt_a wrote:I personally still get my oil changed every 3,000 miles and I have it done with a synthetic blend. Why? Because of a few reasons:

-That magic number of 3,000 has been burned in to my brain from the time I was a kid.

-It's an easy interval to remember.

-It's a fairly cheap insurance policy.

Changing the oil regularly is the number-one most important thing you can do for your engine. If I'm going to error, it's going to be on the side of caution.
I used to shoot for 3k on my changes, although I've started to slide to 4-5k lately. There's some studies out there that have shown that freshly changed oil is less helpful to your car than the existing used oil. I don't have the link handy right now, but "Bob is the Oil Guy" is a great place to start. The point of the article was to point out that more frequent oil changes were perhaps more detrimental than extended change intervals...of course given that the old oil in the car is still in good shape. The myth that "dark oil is dirty, therefore it isn't lubricating as well" also persists...but it isn't necessarily the case.

Like you said, the 3k "golden rule" is from a bygone era with inferior engines and inferior oils.

I'd personally recommend Mobil 1 (@ 5k intervals) - the fact that it's factory fill for many, many cars seems to indicate its quality. Just don't listen to any of the synthetic myths that persist. I had "expert" buddies (they'd changed oil at a quick-lube place in high school!) who told me that my engine would start to leak oil when I changed to synthetic in my '93 Sentra @ 100k miles. I sold it at 165k miles and it still didn't leak a drop. It seems that starting from day one would be even better.

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srellim234
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I plan to go with the synthetic and just go with the suggested service intervals. Easier for me to remember since it's spelled out in the booklet that came with the car.

One thing I've done over the years that has really helped, too. I buy my tires at a place that includes lifetime free air pressure checks, balancing and rotation. So, every time I get the oil changed on my cars I've stopped by the tire place on the way home to get the tires rotated and pressure checked. It sure extends the life of the tires and is easy for me to remember.

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nsrZ32
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I'd highly recommend the Mobil 1 Synthetic

Jojo Versa
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nsrZ32 wrote:I'd highly recommend the Mobil 1 Synthetic
YEP! I agree.

Both Mobil1 and Amsoil use Base 4 or base 5 stocks for their synthetic oils, which is the highest quality base stock available on the planet .

To the best of my knowledge presently everyone else is using base 3 stock and loading them up with all kinds of extra additives and call it a synthetic oil including that Castrol Syntec.

lain
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I don't mean to change the purpose of this thred but do you think if I changed my own oil it could void the warrenty?

And back to what oil I do suggest Mobil1 Synthetic.

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nsrZ32
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lain wrote:I don't mean to change the purpose of this thred but do you think if I changed my own oil it could void the warrenty?

And back to what oil I do suggest Mobil1 Synthetic.
Doing your own oil changes, or having them done someplace other than the dealership WILL NOT void your warranty.

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scott@westcovinanissan
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I will agree with nsrZ32 getting your oil changed at places other then the dealer will not void your warranty.

But as far as oil I use and will always use Motul full synthetic.

BBISHOPPCM
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Valvoline is the single worst oil on the market, I have my oil changes done at the dealer, they use Mobile Dino. I've heard it's best to break in a new engine with dino (15-20k) then switch to synthetic, if you switch at all.

sooner4x4
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There are lots of opinions about oil. The 5000 mile oil change interval is pretty common and perfectly fine with dino oil for the way most people drive. Synthetic oil is great but a waste of money in my opinion, however a lot of people use it to the delight of the folks selling it.

I only have 2k on my Versa. I will do the first oil change at around 3k and then 5k after that, just like on my Toyotas. I use Havoline 5w30.

As others have mentioned, there is a ton of discussion about all things oil on the Bobistheoilguy website.

The best advice. Do the oil changes yourself so you know it is done right.

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COVersaSL
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If you do change your own oil or have it changed somewhere other than the dealer make sure you keep receipts to prove it was done or it can come back to haunt you. I have always liked Valvoline Durablend in my other cars but I have just been letting the dealer put in whatever.

Rockhound
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Here's a good site that compiles viscosities and other measurements (flash point, pour point, % ash, % zinc) for most popular oils, if anyone's interested. Of course, the problem is determining what constitutes a "good" measurement. For instance, the flash point is the temperature at which the oil begins to give off flame-ignitable vapors.

http://www.micapeak.com/info/oiled.html

So Castrol GTX 10W30 has a flash point of 415°F whereas Mobil 1 10W30 has a flash point of 450°F. Obviously, the lower the flash point, the "easier" the oil will vaporize and possibly burn off. The article states that 400°F is the minimum to prevent high consumption. So is 415°F enough? Probably depends upon a bevy of factors, like driving habits, the engine it's used in, and ambient conditions.

So it's an interesting compilation of oil variables, but it still doesn't explicitly state which oil is "better", because that's a far more complicated "answer". Also note that the study is outdated and many oils may have reformulated since it was put together.

Jojo Versa
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Rockhound wrote:Here's a good site that compiles viscosities and other measurements (flash point, pour point, % ash, % zinc) for most popular oils, if anyone's interested. Of course, the problem is determining what constitutes a "good" measurement. For instance, the flash point is the temperature at which the oil begins to give off flame-ignitable vapors.

http://www.micapeak.com/info/oiled.html

So Castrol GTX 10W30 has a flash point of 415°F whereas Mobil 1 10W30 has a flash point of 450°F. Obviously, the lower the flash point, the "easier" the oil will vaporize and possibly burn off. The article states that 400°F is the minimum to prevent high consumption. So is 415°F enough? Probably depends upon a bevy of factors, like driving habits, the engine it's used in, and ambient conditions.

So it's an interesting compilation of oil variables, but it still doesn't explicitly state which oil is "better", because that's a far more complicated "answer". Also note that the study is outdated and many oils may have reformulated since it was put together.
Thank you for the link, I had not seen this one but have seen others that are very similar. I worked in the automotive industry for an OEM for many years and I can tell you that whenever we had serious problems with heat or noise in engines, transmission's and diff's we automatically went to high quality synthetic oils and lubricants, I am going back 20 -25 years way before the word synthetic became used out in the open market. I for one was converted many many years ago through that experience and personnally would not use anything else.

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Flatline
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Hey all,

I'm a "soon to be" Versa owner....just waiting for the dealer to get it in from wherever they ship them via rail.

To comment on the oil issue, It's been mentioned to me that as Rockhound has mentioned,
Rockhound wrote: ...The point of the article was to point out that more frequent oil changes were perhaps more detrimental than extended change intervals...of course given that the old oil in the car is still in good shape...
Synthetic oil doesn't actually reach it's full lubricating potential until 1000k or so (yes, that's a canuck measurement). I wish I could remember where that source came from...I will check.


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