I wasn't able to find a more simple way, short of using 2 separate catch cans. This is from several hours of searching here and on skylinesaustralia.Coolwhip wrote:my head hurts just looking at that setup.
there is a way to simplify that system, while maintaning a proper setup
capped valve on the intake? yeah. It shouldn't change the tune since it's basically recycled air.mattblancarte wrote:DOH! Should I run a t-line down to the capped valve? Will this change my current tune at all?
Well, it may not be "harming" the motor, but there aren't any scavenging on the crankcase with it like that...it's basically just leaking out of the valve covers, then getting filtered out very little, then vented to your engine bay.mattblancarte wrote:hmmm... perhaps I will do that this week. I have two lapping days coming up this weekend... so I'm a bit nervous of making any setup changes right now, though. It's been running perfectly in this setup for a long time now...
Is my current setup harming the motor, or can I get away with it as is?
Nice. I used to have mine vented to the ground out of the driver side fender.Darius wrote:I have mine vented to atmosphere like yours except I run a tube down below the frame rail and do not put a filter on it. My catch can filter clogged once and caused the engine to smoke like crazy. Looked like I was Spy Hunter.
I've thought about doing this for simplicity and ease...Darius wrote:Matt - your setup isn't "incorrect". It is providing a vent for the exhaust gases that pass by the rings and into the crank case. They travel thru the valve cover vents, into the catch can, and out the filter. Pressure relieved, works fine.
I have mine vented to atmosphere like yours except I run a tube down below the frame rail and do not put a filter on it. My catch can filter clogged once and caused the engine to smoke like crazy. Looked like I was Spy Hunter.
in theory the way you are running yours is not incorrect. that is conceptually how mine is run too. just venting to air.mattblancarte wrote:
Nice. I used to have mine vented to the ground out of the driver side fender.
Good call on the filter. I'll go run and grab another one this week... same time I get the beast wrapped in new shoes hehe.
Okay, glad I'm not going to blow up my motor. I was going to say, I've seen my type of catch routing done on a good number of cars...
I had a filter on the catch can itself. I was out doing some tuning early one summer morning and it was cool/damp outside. I filled the catch can with water/oil vapors in a matter of 20 minutes. It was mostly water, but it must have soaked the breather filter and blocked the air flow off. Pulled over and popped it off and the smoking stopped. Since then I ran a line down low to keep the oil spray from covering the engine bay. Instead it will coat the bottom of the car in "rust proofer".Neejay wrote:Also, did yours get clogged because you had the filter on the end? Like the oil build up finally clogged it?
Yeah, that's how I was going to run mine at first: valve covers -> T -> catch can / catch can -> intakeShocker wrote:My setup.
Red lines are the lines to/from catch can. Orange is the sealed catch can filled with steel wool. Bung welded on the intake for constant vacuum even under boost.
Stop being paranoid. The outlet lightly puffs air that has some oil vapor in it. It doesn't lay down an Exxon Valdez oil slick....zil40 wrote:you guys seriously have a vent line that goes from your catch can towards the underneath of your car? what happens if you crack a ring land and pressurize your crankcase, push oil out your catch can, with the vent located conveniently in front of your rear tires?
I actually did my oil catch setup because when I bought the car, it was venting to the fender without a filter or catch. NASA requires that you run a catch can **with a filter** if you vent to atmosphere. So I did what you saw in the pic.Coolwhip wrote:Anyways, for all you track guys, does venting a catchcan to atmosphere pass tech?
Could see with those getting some nasty blow by from extreme pressure (and some of you clogging your drain to the ground) wouldn't that be unacceptable for track criteria?
Indeed. I've seen the supra guys do this a lot. I hear that if you're running lots of hp, it can actually see you some extra power gains.Coolwhip wrote:I would like to repeat myself from previous discussion on this topic... check valve to Exhaust is the dopeness.
I'm actually going to use the stainless steel pot scrubber pads as I did with my catch can setup on my KA.Darius wrote:
Stop being paranoid. The outlet lightly puffs air that has some oil vapor in it. It doesn't lay down an Exxon Valdez oil slick....
Neejay - You can block off the PCV valve if that is how you want to setup the catch can. In theory, the catch can should remove the oil vapor before going into the intake, but it won't work that well unless you add a fill material like steel wool for the oil particles to stick onto.
"lightly puffs air with oil vapor"? i guess thats the "oil spray" thats coating your car in "rust proofer" and this is on a car that doesn't have any kind of engine failure. i'm saying it isn't very safe. if you don't care about "oil spray" coating the road in front of your rear tires then good for you. i don't think anybody should vent that underneath your car. thats all. your problem.Darius wrote:
I had a filter on the catch can itself. I was out doing some tuning early one summer morning and it was cool/damp outside. I filled the catch can with water/oil vapors in a matter of 20 minutes. It was mostly water, but it must have soaked the breather filter and blocked the air flow off. Pulled over and popped it off and the smoking stopped. Since then I ran a line down low to keep the oil spray from covering the engine bay. Instead it will coat the bottom of the car in "rust proofer".